zoothorn

Omg you make it sound sound so easy markc! And indeed it is to you.. but not for me. Not 1st time with 12mm rod, & my wavey davey pita render. For eg, the 12mm rod, to deburr the ends to get a nut on.. took me 2 hours last night alone! Downhill once ledger up, & sheep 'celebration' accomplished.

Good god the time this is taking.. 4 hours to drill & prep two more holes. So got one more stud in.. then I go to use gun to fill hole no.4 ( 2 mins after filled & studded hole no.3).. & nozzle rock hard. So. I've got to tomorrow: drill & prep holes 5,6,7. Then fill all in one go, & get washers in, then studs in & centred.. with one ( thank god) nozzle left. The problem is prepping the front of the holes, so a flat (23mm) washer can sit within it. When I have only a 22mm flat bit to do it with. And the render so thick & deep on a hump, I cant see what im doing well at all. Awful job. Also, how do I get my top line of three tubes, level with the lower row of 4? The lower 4 Ive used a stringline. But Ineed to get these, plumb withthe top 3.

Hi Peter I needed to enlarge both to unstick it from cill.. then LH one even more to 20mm, as I had it a bit off level. Acceptably level now. Strewth taken me all morning just that. I want rightup to cill ( bar 5mm safety gap/ now got) as Im scrimping for every inch in H of the balcony. The last consequence of the build a foot-too-low fiasco. Argh. It'll be stupidly low as it is you see. Head H the deck, from drive. Double argh.

Thanks, got two studs in ok. Kept nozzle on. Innevitably board slightly wrong positions tho- drilling perfectly straight into wall.. was never gonna happen. So. Ive got my ledger board 5mm too high ( its jammed underneath the doors sill: I had allowed a 5mm gap, but this has fkd off into ether then). Can I enlarge my two 13mm timber outer holes, to a 16mm hole ok? Or even a 18mm hole? M12 stud. I mean does it hamper these two fixings if two bigger timber outer holes? The timber will of course sit 'down' upon the tops of these 2 big holes, plus the other 5 holes are drilled at 13mm, I'll get these following 5 better aligned now the damn thing is actually up in place, albeit temporarily to mark their 5 places onto the wall spot on. Thanks, zoot.

Hi markc, so once my first two holes filled 2/3rds or so... I am to remove the nozzle, & put the cap back on? Not keep the nozzle on, & switch them over this afternoon when needing to continue filling other holes? Thanks, zoot

@joe90 can you help. I need to wait hours between putting the resin in, stud no.1, until this set... to then lift up timber onto it, put resin in hole 2. What do I do with the resin tube, once hole 1 filled? Do I immediately remove the nozzle & put cap on tube? Or leave nozzle on, & switch nozzles later? IE How are you to use two nozzles with this stuff? thx zoot

I cannot make head nor tail of the fischer instruction. So infuriating. Sorry chaps I need help how to use this stuff. I understand the nozzle mixes the stuff, & I have 3 nozzles (+1 from prior job). 1. Do I fill the hole full, half full? 2. I'm doing the first 2 holes together/ same time.. then an hour's wait: so is this nozzle then removed, binned, the cap put back on.. & it's then useable again with nozzle 2? 3. Is it 1 hour set time? Or a day? I see a YouTube clip, but so many types/ tubes of this stuff I don't know if the clip applies to my stuff. Thanks, zh

The extra washers will be useful shims Ive just thought: getting the line of 4 stud tubes level wont be easy. Just getting the 2 outer studs in, with the ledger on, isn't yet clear to me. Ok do I A) fill my two holes, offer timber up, put rod through timber it & into wall? Then use a twig get it centred. IE forget the washer/ tube/ square washer between them for this. Problem here, is once set the hardened squeezed out resin will inhibit the 1st washer sitting flat on the block. Or B) just fill one hole, twist rod in, wipe off resin excess. No timber yet. Wait 1 hour, put washer/ tube/ sqaure washer on. Timber on LHS. Lift up RHS pivoting on this firm stud. Prob with B is how do I get this rod to set & sticking out without drooping, bodging up my timber from getiing it level?

Aha bingo thanks markc. @Onoff same fischer stuff as my cabin pads, you were right ( i have a same red nozzle thing from that job/ matches this tube bought today). As per that job tho, the fischer instructions are absurd. No idea at all. Ok I've brushed out hole, & vac'd it well. All set. So can you remind me is it fill hole, twist rod in, offer timer up ( & wedge in place) put markc twig in place.. then wait for an hour? And then i can tighten a nut on? Seems remarkably soon to do so. Thanks Zoothorn

Chaps, I think I'm set to fill my outer two holes & set the 200mm rods in with the fischer stuff. What I need to know is how the rod can be centred, in the resin-filled hole, in order for it to set properly. Surely it'll sink down, being sticking out from the wall. Or the front extended 12mm's weight, will cause the front to dip down. My concrete pads job, this was vertical rod.. so whatever I did to centre it within the resin filled hole, was made much easier. Thanks, zh

Hi Onoff. Made a start on ledger board. Drilled 7 holes in it 1st, wedged/ offered it up, marked my two outer holes on wall. Drilled in my 80mm with 14mm bit. I've enlarged the flat wood bit render area.. to just squeeze in.. the smaller flat washer in the pic here. 22mm width. Can you remind me. Was this washer intended for here, in the box of goodies? If notI need to replace what this was going to be for. Or maybe a late addition, for my tube " press onto it " idea? When I mean here: to reiterrate: I think I definitely need something for tube to " press " against, not for it to press onto the block as the face is uneven & crumbling (a sharpish tube.. will cut in Im sure of it). Thanks, zh

Ok #3 someone asked ' is it this one? ' & linked to.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-p-polyester-styrene-free-resin-380ml/42772 (I was prolly naiively thinking there was 1 ficher resin when doing the thread you see). So the answer of whether or not this -was- the stuff I was using.. I didn't even seem to conclude. Just how to use it from then on. Trawling "fischer fis p" today gets me to toolstation, & this product, but as I didn't say " yes that is the one I'm using " I'm not sure it was the one... .& now deluged with countless other similsr ones here & screwfix too. Can't cope. I just buy your one you suggested today Onoff. Monday. Zh

No it's defunct. I can't understand this if the one you suggest today, is from screwfix (suggesting yours today is a different one.. or the product number changed which I don't think happens). Anyhow- Will just go with your link one today then if it says 'for threaded rod'. Thx Onoff zh

You have a headache? Mine's worse.. As I said I looked back thru my threads. This one ^ doesn't tell me which fischer stuff anywhere in it ( there's a screwfix link but its now defunct). I looked thru the cabin basework thread. There it jumps from before the pad's added timber frame xyz.. to after it's done. Can't do job this wknd now/ too late. Will start afresh monday. Thanks, zh

Of course!! Christ I'll get me coat.. Thanks Marvin. But still.. why the dickens wouldn't the bubble be centred simoly flipping it upside-down though?! Lord knows. But its doing my head in.

Good idea that was. In my case ( thanks for the space gun info etc) I'm just trying to buy the same stuff I did 2 years ago, on my cabin pads. Definitely fischer. Definitely used my std gun/ definitely one standard tube. Searched my order history but can't be of use to find this purchase. I've searched both threads. Got to the screwfix link (possibly/ likely the one) but the link now n/a. So is is the same stuff as you linked me to above I wonder? I just don't know. Can you recall? Or know if this one, is the only suitable for threaded rods? Thanks, zh

I seem to have many similar fischer resin options: 1. https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-p-plus-polyester-hybrid-mortar-injection-resin-380ml/552jj 2. https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-p-plus-polyester-hybrid-mortar-injection-resin-300ml/898jj 3. https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-styrene-free-resin/p21098 4. https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-fip-300-sf-styrene-free-resin/p10001?store=W8&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dc&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KCQjworiXBhDJARIsAMuzAuy4VI4wGgmASXDkPbpSDcUqUtXJPjVItUMwkO4UbZ44Br8xaW_El6QaAusaEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds And 3 more Fischer options are "vinylester" resins at toolstation too. Im a bit overwhelmed. Thanks zh

I meant 8x2 apologies. Im going 8x2 on the facia, so I was wondering if it will help my 7 fixings to make it more stable, if the ledger was 8x2 instead of 6x2. My (9x) perp joists attatching to the top edge though by metal hangers, will be 6x2. Thanks, zh

Hi there Peter. So the first pic correct/ discount the 2nd pic way then.. Thank goodness. Btw whilst you're there: do you recognise this as the stuff suggested & I used on my cabin pads? https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-styrene-free-resin/p21098 Thanks, zh

Someone help me out here, wtf is going on.. My level bubble as expected, centred 1st pic.. then I just turn level upside down, & bubble way off. Both flat edges clean, no spot of mortar the cause. Level in ok general condition. Eh?! Frying my noggin.

I wonder if it was this one.. " fischer P 380 " https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-styrene-free-resin/p21098 Searched my cabin basework/ slope thread, but the screwfix link n/a, & I can't find which reply suggested the stuff.. but I think it was @Onoff ? Thanks, zh

@Onoff one other question: could you remind me of the fisher resin stuff ? Just looked & many different ones. I used on my cabin pads to anchor in 10mm studs. I'm sure I used my standard gun. And it was one normal size tube of stuff, I don't recall an extra grey smaller tube that 'mixes in' attatched to it. This is a nozzle that came with it..

I meant once fixed up, & Ewe 'celebration' underway.. But I think 6x2 might be ok. 8x3 prolly a bit more stable, but more of a sod to haul up.

Yes that's the most efficient way, if I can get the right height. Onoff all my timbers for this, apart from the facia board (8x2 the looker ) are 6x2's. Do you think Im better also going 8x2 for the ledger? i mean the extra H means then my stud / standoffs spaced wider apart.. would this help stability? Joists from it still 6x2's etc. Or maybe a bit odd, & 6x2 is fine. Preferred if so. Thx zh