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zoothorn

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Everything posted by zoothorn

  1. Hi J, that gives me confidence. He knows the build/ property, having popped in a few times during the build.. so he knows it's a stone shell with extentions (4 now inc porch) added to it. As to redecorating; I had thought of this, & with great results using Zinsser Bin stuff, last week I covered some seriously yellow lower walls in the porch either side of front door, the porch I renovated only last year, & so far.. no yellow damp showing through. Yet. So should I just do the same on the plasterboard reveal/ cill areas I wonder. This would cover it (then redo the silicone blackened beads here, maybe not the correct thing I used).. but am I not covering over damaged plasterboard? This is my main concern, above the BCO decision tbh; has the damp collecting near the cills here left me needing to replace all the reveals plasterboard-? In only 18 months this "damage" has been caused. Thanks, zh
  2. Hi bob, forgive me if I don't focus on how to eliminate the mould for this thread.. it's whether or not these concerns I have are "mot failures" as it were (IE my mot being my BCO coming here with clipboard). I think I might be aiming my Q's at those knowing what a BCO will pick up on/ or what he might not be concerned about. I have no idea what this visit involves really, & so no idea what if anything I should prepare for. I haven't yet heard of a "fireshield" during the build process.. a new one on me this is. Yes as said I will replace the screws in due course ( when I have time), but I know it's sturdy for the time being so it's just IF it can "pass the mot" as is. That's all I need to know, for this thread. Thanks, zh
  3. And really my final concern I think: on the balcony job I've used goldscrews ( I just read y'day aren't weatherproof) generally on my top section of my balcony. IE the whole handrail/ top posts/ spindles section. All seems strong, & not gonna fail anytime soon.. but will the BCO pick up on the type of screws used is my point-? I can next spring swap out for stainless. So these golscrews just to do for now as it were. Thanks, zoot
  4. Lastly my least concerns inside; one workshop led spotlight ( I bought, then electrician installed) slightly drooping.. & some minor untidyness at juncture of wall to sloped ceiling area, in upstairs bedroom.
  5. Next up is a similar thing around the nearby window cill (pic 1), & (cold bridging black mould patch?) in adjacent corner where build meets the old wall (pic2)..
  6. Hi chaps over here, I'm about to call up my BCO for the final check of my 1 up/1 down extention build, now I've at last pulled my finger out & built the balcony/ last stage. I have some minor "defects" I need advice on 1st though. [Build recap: Builder work complete march 2020 (all external aspects). Then 2020 I built all inside work, completing & "moving in" as it were end of 2020]. Since moving in to the upstairs bedroom 18 months ago, I've watched an alarming ammount of mould grow ( my main concern). Below in workshop all fine on this front. I wonder is this a BCO 'failure' per se? Also some very minor concerns I'll elaborate on afterwards. These areas/ patches in the bedroom are my main concern though. Thanks, Zoot. Worst mould around french doors cill area:
  7. Hmm.. I don't think this will do the trick, he's not distracted easily. Just snapped some pics of my concerns, & doing a new thread "BCO 'signing off' my build". Thanks, zoot
  8. Hehe, well I'm gonna try anyway. My page count is coming down. Or I could just get BCO in, & him tell me if X not up to snuff.. but prefer him to see it all dandy 1st time tbh.
  9. Yes good idea.. it's the sensible option. The top horizintal brace timber is really poor/ light quality rough 1-1/2" x 3-1/2", so this best dark browned for sure. Spindles, a pain to paint.. might leave them/ £2 each so just replace as of when maybe. I need to ask a few Q's on here prior to booking in my nice BCO to sign the exthtion build off (impressed so far with my lower workshop build work).. so need a -quick- thread on this topic next. Thanks alot, zoot
  10. No, I didn't have that in mind Onoff.. just take top rail off & do one more coat/ put back on. I did put waterbased clear no nonsense deck stuff on my cabin boards.. seems ok, I think you're point being I should treat the deck too? Which I forgot about. zh
  11. Finished! Will do 2nd coat on the ( roundover edged) handrail in next dry spell.. just got 1 on & mostly dry before rain coming midday. Huge thanks y'all especially Onoff for the metal bits & help with the design, & nozzles from GW. Very kind indeed chaps. Now to get the build signed off. Woohoo! Zoot.
  12. My BCO just said to me, when visited here in june 'do 95mm between spindles, & 1100mm to handrail'. zh
  13. Ah ok. Yes it's planed.. right then can do. But does that expose the timber by nipping off the tannalise ? Is the chamfer of r'over idea go with treating it all again? ( only got bartoline dark brown).
  14. Hi Peter, thanks.. my top rail 'bit of 4 be 2' is gonna let the side down tho! Spindles oddly seem to blend in ok, rough as heck they are.. prolly go all wibbly wobbly "rustic" (= shite) by next year.
  15. Onoff's bathroom thread was started in 2007, & is still going on apparantly. Some members have actually died during it. zh
  16. No they're 1055mm notch to top. It's stupidly high this handrail as it is without the top on.. really spoils the sitting out & the view from the new room too. It's due to the pillar so short you think this, another (very last) caveat of the whole 'build a foot too low' debacle. Anyway resin bolted back posts/ great, & all 4 corner posts joined & solid now. Spindles 'agricultural' ( literally: 37 stake whatnots) but i like em.. far cheaper too. Zh
  17. Yes they do ping out. I thought I should've just put some drive gravel ontop as it was curing, to blend it in. And help splash up under the pillar feet. Oh well.. last job, thanks for tip. zh
  18. Progress yesterday.. the fischer tube just needed 1cm declogging both sections, then worked again great (with nozzle kindly sent by GW). So my 2 back posts to do onto resin'd studs.. then spindles & 4x2 handrail today.. these two will let the side down a bit, but can be redone next year with better timber. Thanks, zoot
  19. Finally all smart n tarty.. many thanks chaps- great result. Zoot
  20. Hi GW.. you're a gent- thanks alot! I see on the amazon page 'frequently bought together' showing my fischer stuff with it.. so presumably fits; I can't of course take my nozzle off to check 20/21mm or it'll go solid I think. I'll pm you now. Zoot
  21. Hi Onoff, I think I'm ok with plan as was, for the 6 posts fixing ( notched then fixed to existing outside of lower frame, & I had turbo screws ready for here 2x in each notch > frame: could replace with coachbolts if I felt the it all not super solid). The back two posts adjacent to the wobbly wall.. also needing a resin bolt twds the top. This the only tricky bit really. I had this ^ idea lined all up, & some bits bought y'day. The top rail: 5x2 checks out at 4-3/4 of course.. so get some/ chamfer edges & I have my top handrail. (You were right again I think). My timber braces across: tannalised 3-1/2 x 1-1/2.. I found in town. So just looong spindles to source, the 1-1/2" square jobs i found... looking like will have to do. One other thing: I wonder would anyone have a spare fischer 300t type nozzle I could buy? £10 for 5x is such a waste of money, & plastic. Red & clear plastic jobs. Thanks, zoot
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