zoothorn

I'm totally confused chaps, please can someone help? I watch another youtube clip. The chap is meticulous, has a 20mm gap between upvc frame & wall. Similar to me. He then attaches half the length of a long screw, with a rawl plug. So 120m screw, he add a 60mm rawl plug ontonit. He then inserts this/ all of it through the frame. Hammers it, then screws in. So the plug, sits ( presumably) in but not projects out of... the wall. Like a normal rawl plug. How this goes through the frame... Ido not know/ is not shown. This is completely different, to what I am reading up about, & watching clips of ( a bit of wood to a wall) about the " frame fixings" I have: these show the "rawl plug"( whatever it is called/ plastic outside bit) -STOPPING- at the same point the screw head does. At the frame. Wtf?? @PeterW could you help maybe? I bought these frame fixings on your suggestion, but I just cannot understand the principle though. thanks, zoot.

Could someone help with this: The clips of the frame fix, like the one Marvin added ( thanks/ did see this among many) shows someone attatching abitof wood... to a wall. Mine isn't this at all though. It's attatching a (bendable) upvc frame, then a gap of some sort (my gap is fairly big- average is 25mm), to a wall. Quite different. There are no specific frame fix clips to help, so I just don't know how to use these "frame fixings". Any help appreciated. Zh

@Marvin thanks for your help. Alas I don't have the time for ebay bits in post though. I have to do this tmrw, with screwfix or toolstation xyz: at it was, I was gonna dive into town & try changing these frame fixings for 8x120mm.

No or Id know roughly what to do. Can someone just help me with 'frame fixings'? Bought some, but hefty jobs it seems.. m10 x120mm ( I thought "frame fixings" were a one size thing). If I only have 8mm masonry bit, then these won't do will they? The principle of rawl plugs Ive done hundreds of times. But doing something other than the standard 'make hole, push plug in'... with sonething that looks like a rawl plug, essentially, & my head is aching/ it doesn't compute. Youtube clips, ive done, but 'hammer fixings' is a term used too. I have no idea wtf is going on. Hammer?? Thanks, zh

Can anyone help. I have a pack of frame fixings, but never used them. I don't think they are the same principle as rawl plugs & screws. Here is my frame wedged in level & plumb. 1186x 600mm. I can drill thru frame into wall ok, 3x per side... but then what do I do? Remove frame, insert the wall plugs part into wall.. then reset the frame again, put screws in? I have a suspicion this not the way these fixings are meant to be used. Thanks, zoot

Hi Onoff, I've added a pic of what I've done/ had to: it was suggested I have no stub cill ( bc there's an old concrete cill there).. but not taken into account was where the frame would 'land'. Turns out I did need a stub cill after all. So, my concrete 'bed' / something for the frame to land on, is curing ok ( 24 hrs now). I need to crack on even whilst it cures more. 2 days to do this! So I have my frame fixings as PeterW suggested. I have some, foam, and plastic spacers. If you can give me a hand, what to do next.. I'd be grateful. Thanks, zoot

I don't think I need nogs now- boards sured things up well. All set to come back to & do hand rails, in a week or so. It's a fab spot to sit- real knockout views. Thanks alot chaps, zoot

Update. Deck boards here. Joists all nailed in. Which way to start the boards? from front edge, or back? The back has the doors' cill jutting out say 50mm, so I need to "board around" this.

@Onoff hi thanks for that. Yes understood the best way. Trouble is Im very reticent to whack into the render ( Id have a day of stress chipping off 50mm around of the thick outside reveal area). If I damage blockwork.. I have huge problem. I can't see how to attack the block & render welded together, without damaging the block. So.. Ive resorted to this. As long as I can get the window 'resting' on something below, to bond onto to form a seal, surely just about ok. Hope bloomin so. Done now! Its some form of concrete I cobbled up. Lord knows what.

Is there any reason you can't put nogs in after the boards on? Am I being daft asking this? I have some unused 4x2 I could put in as nogs.. don't suppose they -have- to be 6x2'x, do they? And nogs are just 2 nails in each end, right? Nothing more than that needed. I could come back to this job, if the deck boards don't fix my flex I guess.. wait until. Thanks, useful replies TT.. zh

Hi markc, ah yes of course: understand the deck boards ( delivery here tmrw) will hopefully sure things up. Will report back tmrw once these put down tmrw. Update photos too- concrete pads seems good, if a bit unsightly! Thx zh

Chaps, I have about 10mm-15mm of lateral 'flex' of the structure as it is.. at the front. Likely because of the steel tether points of both pillar spikes, & the steel ledger fix points (outwards of the wall by 50mm). Is this anything to worry about? Maybe expected before the handrail addition sures things up-? I wonder if this diagnosis suggests noggins needed. Thanks, Zoothorn

Hi Craig, many thanks for this idea- makes much sense/ understand it. Thing I'm reticent about with this idea, is I have a nice neat flush render 'outline' lip (the render put onto the sides of OLD frame once frame put in), to help me putting in new frame. So your idea means hacking into this an inch, pretty hard work to do too. Ive got 3 days now before weather shifts... so I must make a decision onhow to proceed tmrw. I searched high & low for plastic additions today to the base... but all 5m. I just refuse to bin 4.5m of alot of plastic, this is criminal wastage. So it's your idea, or fill the 'trench' with mortar ( or concrete- I cannot distinguish between them). But I have to somehow shutter the area in Q, & never done this/ no idea if the idea is even feasable. Thanks, zoot

Ok missed that- thanks roundtuit. Ive whacked in some I had, will come back redo in due course. I don't suppose the BCO will mind which nails.. & recall as buried in wood, bar the head, normals possibly ok anyway. My -CURIN SHROUDS- ( very clever pun) coming off today. Onto my deck boards then. What gap between? Pencil? Thanks, zoot

Do you mean this stuff dpm.. Ive got it added on the reveals on my wc window, probably to close a big gap: looks about 50mm W strip stuff..

Thanks I'll see if Eurocell has some. So just a piece 70mm x 600mm (this is my frame DxW) but instead of 70mm... say 90mm? So it'll -just- rest on the concrete cill say 20mm or so. A bead of sticks like sh*t all weather silicone adhesive (i used on my flue roof rubber boot thing) to fix it to the frame underside? then again to fix frame 20mm onto the concrete? Thanks, good suggestion I s'pose I could get this from jewson too, & cheap. Cheers, zoot.

Hi J, thanks good idea. Now Im limited to few places here, but @Simplysimon 's suggestion similar, & I saw Eurocell mentioned on his link/ thanks SS/ which is where my frame bought from in town. So I'll go in & ask, see of they hsve anything similar. Thing is though, swivelling the sod into the sides, is damn squeeze as it is: it would be more ideal, if I could form the concrete 'bed' better instead. Thanks, zh

No, I did my utmost to measure best I could. Height is ok. But I cant add to the height of either the frame, or the cill level it was meant to sit on, bar 10mm. Max. Meaning I'm compromised as to what I can do/ add. I'm thinking fill the cavity 'trench' with mortar or concrete, just up to the existing level of the old concrete cill. I mean fill say 50mm deep, so 50x50 HxD, by 600mm along. But how would I form a shutter to do this is the Q. zh

Progress today- front beam bolts will have to be. One mistake.. I can't get access to the joist hangers nearest pillars! I'm still waiting on concrete to fully cure before I start hammering in sidewards, to fix my joists in. 4 days today. (Screws more sensible/ less stress on pillar spikes-?) Can start getting deck board timbers, should bd easy job. Thanks all- Zoothorn

You're a star thanks.. I trawled their site a good few times but adamant 125mm galv ones I didn't find. Sure of it. Yup got the joist hanger ones ok. Whilst you're there dpm, could I ask: what you'd suggest to fix through the doubled up 6x2's... into the two pillar notches? I have St.St 8mm threaded rod.. but wouldn't a bare rod end/ big washer/ nut look a bit shoddy on front? All I have here mind you. Or do this.. just flat wood bit recess them in on front? Maybe fill up with brown silocone to hide them later. Thanks, zh

Hi IceV. the idea of adding any form whatsoever of placcy cill on.. is ideal, but surely nothing that's 15mm is available Hammering off any ammount from the block is worrying, as I found chisselling off just 1/2" of render to tidy the top up. I jyst can't see how anymore is possible without loosening/ damaging the blocks. I don't want to be left with a wall to repair, before starting on the window. I don't have any such skills. So the idea of filling the cavity top, forming a wood sheath thing, then fashioning a new added cill within it from mortar (?) or concrete (?).. seems only thing plausible. Anyone else have any ideas? Thanks, zh