zoothorn

Yes had a look. Seems a good place for new glass, & basics on condensation.. but specifically doesn't recommend diy glass refitting.

I just cannot get the beading off/ its completely impossible. The scraper is so tight in 5mm.. & 90* to the window/ I cannot get any angle down to aim for the bead bit. If I rubber-hammer it the whole window is having such a shock I'm worried it might crack. It must have to be done with a specific tool.

Ok understood- but in my case as I can barely get it in, getting any angle down is impossible (scraper just bends).. & as I can only get a pretty thin one in, why I'm worried about splitting it, above the bulging beady bit.

So does the clip 'bulge' bit run along whole length of beading? is it sufficiently thick that when I hit it with a paint scraper (the only thing I can possibly jam in tiny gap) I'm not gonna split the beading tho? And angled down.. so if I'm doing the horizontal top bead of window (longer) I'm angling the scraper.. downwards? thanks- zoot

Whose Don Carlos?

Having major prob even getting a scraper in the gap, let alone prize the beading any more than 2mm up.. or my scraper will snap, &/ or I'll ruin my frame attacking it. huge pressure needed.. tbh I just don't see how its possible. I was expecting this difficulty tbh- which is why I was asking if this beading stuff is universal, so I could just replace it (once I somehow get this out). How exactly is it 'clipped' into place? I cant see anything on any DG glass it could clip onto, so assume its only attatched to the outer adjacent part of the frame.

Actually yesterday one my builder's chaps here, advising me to do my ceiling insulation.. in just my undercrackers/ jump in t'bath after etc. I could go one further.

@Construction Channel many thanks for this.. looks a simple & satisfying job. I wonder about removing a window glass tho in my case: without one useful 25 ft long arm to go outside & gently push glass? suction thing(s) needed? When replacing glass, can the old one be measured once the beading removed? IE can I leave old one in, until I have new one nearby?

Great- thanks. I was just wondering if the idea was rip out the beading & put new in/ thinking it cheap placcy that's all.. ok so need to make sure not to damage it then if its going back in. Mine's beading only inside I see now. Yes understand if its on outside too.. a burglar's delight!

@Temp ok builder here today, I can ask him if he's heard of the idea.. if I ask about condensation, as an issue specifically, I'll just get "its fine" & walk off in a grump. again.

I hadn't heard of that.. but forgive the obvious Q: would the rain just wash it off it one go tho? I think maybe that's only suitablw for the inside, IE inside the mask glass/ no sense outside surely.

@Declan52 thanks for that- I'll keep this info logged for when I get round to replacing this shot DG glass. Is the idea with the white placcy beading, mine looks to be 1" or so W, to replace it.. or is the idea to put it back in? I've only got 2cm or so of frame past the beading.. until my reveal tiles: a bit constrained maybe? is the DG glass able to be fitted from either side (inside or outside).. or is it always done from inside-?

@ProDave so clip to the underside of the timber 'top' of the joist? (these joist timber 'tops' have my floor above, glued to them).. then the wool insulation below it? Understand the regs on 300mm wiring- great, thanks for that/ one thing I can tick off 'ok'.

Outside. Ok that helps too, as I do have an old kitchen window with slight, but irritiatingly uniform over 1/2 pane, condensation on the inside. As I'm here: how easy is it to fit a new DG section on an older upvc window? same design as my new ones mind you.

In my house, the weather is freezing bloody cold I can see my breath right now, but no rain. Outside, in the bright sun its a bit of mild heat/ in shade & fog, cold.

I was wondering about the actual surface just today actually. I'll look into this. Thanks chaps.

That's an idea.. bloody cold now tho/ only got a diddy fan heater (dangerous/ if too much cold to cope with the plug starts melting). I take your idea on board tho.

Trouble is you see, I'm way off getting an actual heater in. I cannot progress on the build until I get the final (1/3rd) bill from my builder including these doors, because there are huge issues with the work done.. very complicated, & my builder deliberately witholding bill to help his case currently (&/ or just to prohibit me from progressing on internal stuff). Prior to getting this damn bill/ in the meantime, I need to establish if these doors are faulty.

These are double-glazed. I think I did dip into this Q before, but can't find/ need to refresh my query. No heating. But what do you mean by 'heating'? the room designated as from a BCO/ technical pov "heated" (which I cannot understand what constitutes A from B).. or simply heating IE introducing a source of powered warmth?

Hi- extention just built (bar internal insulation, electrics, plasterboard). Rendered block, internal timber frame. 2 storys. 4.5m square. New upvc white (cheapo, yes) french doors: I have terrible condensation on the outside panes, almost continually/ & daily (& pretty much all day too). Sun now streaming onto them for 1hr -& remains directly on this West side till sundown- the windows/ glass is totally obscured bar the perimeters. I do not have this problem with any other (similar in style) upvc window, even 20 yr shot ones. I do get terrible condensation -inside- almost all, including these doors too. But this tends to clear ~10am. But this outside condensation means I can rarely see through the glass of doors. I installed them specifically for the view, & also usefully a place I can put a camera to catch antisocial behaviour from locals: now this deterrant is useless. Its hugely dissapointing, relentless, looks awful & makes my view redundant. And I just do not see it on any other properties, so its not solely due to atmosphere here. To me they seem definitely faulty, but how possibly so if they're new-? Any thoughts? thx zoot.

Understand the principle fine. But how I could possibly put into practise is the thing, or know what the heck I should be doing.. in my situation. The walls are simple to put all this technical info into practise: I make a channel in the kingspan/ done. These are the higher current power tools' sockets too. Its this problematic 'push wool up between joists' I cannot get the idea of, if by nature its going to at the least bow down in middle twds cable.. & possibly after years actually sag down & come into contact. It is though, only light cables running within the joists, & thesedays presumably not the halogen jobs but led ceiling 'spots' too.

Great- ok thanks Peter. That's the plan/ clarity I needed. So if the spark lays lays cable perp to the joists, across the lower wood joist 'rung', & I push up '35 stuff' above it.. do I need to be considering the insulation touching the cable, if I'm going 140mm D of '35 stuff'.. & so have a 40mm 'gap' below to cable? I'm not understanding the interaction of the cable to the wool (the 'derate' thing has confused me). Thanks- zoot.

What did you do 1st: electrics, or push the '35' stuff up between joists?

Ive googled de-rating cable.. but I'm suddenly in total confusion again/ cannot possibly cope with understanding it. Ok as it is, my spark will be doing the electrics (& another whose Part-P certified doing whatever it is he does for me) so the intricate electrical theory.. I have to put aside. So all I have to do, is the insulation. Its just a question of when to do it, what stuff to use, if I can get it into the joists, where the cables are relative to it (& whether I need to ask the spark anything regarding the proximity of cables/ insulation).

@ProDave thanks for pics- useful as I have same 'open-frame' timber-frame joists as you 1st pic. Ok so on this pic, you have what 1st pushed up the '35' stuff (before electrics?), then what splayed some apart & somehow got -within- the frames of the joists (?). Is that a white cable running diogonally across joists, if so how can this not be in contact with the insulation (& why can't it be in contact- shouldn't it be?) sorry a few Q's..