deuce22

I've spoken with a company called Thermohouse and they've quoted me £41 per m2. I've just done a quick costing for my garage and for blocks including Labour it comes to just over £5500 and with ICF it came to just over £6000. I have to add the cost of a concrete pump, so it will possibly be around £1000 more. Even though there is liveable space above the garage, the majority of it is not and so it's probably a bit of a waste of money using it for the garage.

He did the labour himself for both projects, so for him it was just materials. I would have to pay for a bricklayer, but would construct the ICF myself. Labour for block work will cost me £1 per block.

Does anyone know the difference in cost between these 2 methods. A friend has recently built a property using ICF and said it was similar in cost to a property he built using a double block cavity construction. I've only had a quick look and this doesn't seem correct. Thanks.

I'll look into it more. I will have plenty of ground behind the wall to do all the back filling required, but building 1.2m at a time is also an option. What depth would you think you'd need before you can build another 1.2m wall?

Yeah, thats what I was looking at. I think they also look better than gabions. It will be around 2m or so for 2 different areas and then a few more areas that are shorter. How much do the cost in comparison to gabions? Thanks.

Hi. I have been researching for the different retaining wall options and wanted to get some feedback from what others have done. I was originally thinking of Gabion baskets as it was something I could do myself and so I would save on the labour costs. I have now come across mortar free gravity retaining walls and have been told that these are pretty straight forward to do. Has anybody built a retaining wall from this and do they perform well? Thanks.

I wasn't planning on not heating the ground floor, I was just planning on using radiators and not UH heating.

Alex C. I just watched the video. Did they lay the UH directly on top of the forms before pouring the concrete? My footprint is around the same as yours, so I'd consider doing the same. As the ground floor is spare bedrooms, bathrooms and entrance hall, it won't be used very much, so I wasn't going to bother. The property is 3 stories and I was planning on using UH on the other 2 floors, has anyone done this and how well does it perform. How many metres of concrete did you pour? Thanks.

I didn't mean that I wanted the concrete to actually be the finished floor, just that it is finished ready for carpet/tiles. The guy from Isoquick said the floor stays warm, without underfloor heating as it is within the thermal envelope of the building. Have you found that to be true? Thanks. Thanks. I'll look through it.

Just had a look at your development Alex, it is great. I didn't see a video, but can see how it was done from the images. So the finished floor was the poured concrete? How thick was the concrete? Is your blog on this site Peter? Did either of you have a comparison of the costs between what you used and a standard raft to finish floor level? Thanks.

I'm going to calculate costs on the different raft options available and then I'll have something to work from. Just so I understand the method properly, can somebody tell me if this is correct for a raft foundation. Shutter the area to be poured, install all the steel and then pour the first slab. Wait for that to cure and then pour the second slab. Lay DPC and insulation and then screed over the top for the finished floor. I have just spoken with Isoquick and they said that the insulated forms get laid and then the concrete gets poured. There is no need for shuttering and the concrete can be floated for the finished floor. Am I correct? Thanks.

Thanks very much both. I'm just doing as much research now before I actually start construction. I've never dealt with piles before and assumed it was more expensive, but somebody said it is similar to a raft. Just so I understand, the 7k for the piles was to get you to a position to then pour concrete (similarly to a strip foundation)? I'll stick with the raft then and do some research into the different options. Thanks.

Hi. I've only ever used strip foundations in the past, so I have know experience with the costs of a raft and pile foundations. I have been advised to use a raft foundation on this development, but was wondering what the difference in cost is between the two. What would be the preference for people on here. Thanks.

Thanks guy's. That will really help me, I didn't have a clue who to contact.

Hi. I am digging at the back of my plot to put in a land drain and have hit two underground water pipes (I’ve connected them back up). I’ve spoken with the neighbour behind me and he has informed me that they used a mole to put in gas and water for his property. My issue with this is that they have cut across ground that doesn’t belong to him instead of keeping it close to the edge of my boundary until they enter his land. I’m now concerned with continuing in case I hit the gas line. Is there some type of detector for gas, so I can get an idea of where it is? Should I speak with somebody about this, is it there responsibility as they are on my property? Thanks.

I haven't started the build yet, Ive just been trying to clear and tidy the site a bit. I'll definitely get insurance. Thanks all.

I haven't got a mortgage and I'm planning to do it without one, so there's no problem there. People getting injured could be a problem and also damage to the property via an accident. I'll call a few companies and check what it includes. Thanks.

I built a house about 10 years ago and didn't have insurance. For what main reason do people get self build insurance?

Hi. I am living in a caravan on my plot, but have not yet started any works. I own an excavator that is currently uninsured and I have yet to get self build insurance. I'm wondering whether to get a self build insurance that covers plant or a separate plant insurance. I only really want the plant insurance to cover theft. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

I'll dig out the trench and see what the earth is like before I decide which way to go. Thanks.

How long has that been fitted?

I'm not to bothered about the finish after as it will be under a raised deck, It is more about how it is constructed. What I don't want is to have to be digging it up in a few years because it's blocked. It seems logical to put the pipe at the very bottom rather than raising it on stone and also to put a barrier between the stone and earth. However, I have no experience with this and it may not work as long as he states. What would you use instead of the non woven fabric then?

Just watched this for anyone interested. It sounds logical how he explains to do it, but then states how others are explaining it is wrong and will fail.

I was thinking of digging it 600mm wide and deep, but have been told to do it 300 wide, 500 deep and use around 100mm P/pipe. I've been digging some of the ground on the site and it is just turning to sludge, I'm not really sure if using the sock and membrane will cause more problems.

Thanks. I'll check it all out before making a start.