deuce22

I've spoken with STS (which specialise in slip cladding). They have advised to fix battens to the ICF, then a render board to the battens. I can then use a brick slip mortar for bonding the slate. I'll try that Titebond adhesive first, directly to the polystyrene on a small section and see how that holds up. What timber cladding is that on your house?

Hi. I want to put a 500mm high plinth of split faced slate around the bottom of my ICF property. I have been told that the correct way for this, is to fit a cement board first and then an adhesive to the board to bond the slate. Has anyone done this or knows what adhesive is best. Thanks.

Thanks Nick.

Yes, I would be interested. I haven't spoken with anybody doing cellulose insulation, so would like to get a price, before I start framing the roof. Thanks.

I would do all the insulation myself. I agree that it's a nightmare and have done it many times in the past, I'm not looking forward to it at all. I've never fitted PIR on top before, only in between. I've had a search for cellulose installers near me, but can't find anybody.

Thanks Iceverge. I have given up on searching for alternative ideas now, I'm fed up with all the misleading information. I'll probably go back to my original idea of 200mm wool in between and 150mm PIR on top, this gives a value below 0.11. I'll have a look for some cellulose installers near me and compare the costs.

The thickness is 75mm. I'll ask them today what the lambda value is. I'll be fitting all the insulation myself. I've been on many jobs and seen what a lot of people do when insulating, it's like a jigsaw puzzle. I won't trust anybody to do it properly. If it's not going to cost a lot more and it makes it easier for me, id prefer to use materials that are straight forward to install.

I know, I can't get my head around it all. I'm finding that there's a lot of misleading info on a lot of things and it seems like everybody is just trying to promote there own product, whether it's right or wrong. I asked if BC would be happy with this and they said, "if they're not tell them to call us and we'll give them all the information they require. Surely, if this is correct, BC wouldn't even question it. They only give you an R value, which is 3.67.

So, Ive just been speaking with a developer who is building multiple properties and he suggested that I speak with Superfoil as he has used this product on all of his properties. They have given me the following solution. SF60 below rafters, 25mm PIR in between rafters and SF40 above rafters. They have stated that this achieves 0.11. I have just spoken to them again and told them that I don't want to have the hassle of fitting PIR if I'm going down the foil route and asked if I could fill in between with wool (whether glass, mineral or natural). He stated that I only need to double the thickness of the wool to achieve the same U value of a PIR insulation, but will still need to have the 2 layers of foil. They have also sent through an alternative, which is 200mm wool in between and SF40 on top. This method seems a lot less hassle than having to cut and gapotape PIR, but I'm still unsure, as so many people say foils are not good enough. I've input these materials into the Ubakus calculator and it doesn't come near 0.11. Does this seem correct.

From the diagram it states 0.18 for pitched roofs at rafter level. My own logic says that what he's been told is incorrect, as I had to do more than this with 2002 regs. I can't understand why they've told him this and are they treating the quilt foil as if it is some type of super insulated material. I'll be putting the last floor of ICF on soon and then ready for the roof. I'm trying to work out the most efficient way of insulating it. Thanks for the link, but where do I go once i'm in ProDave's profile?

Hi. I'm trying to understand exactly how building control calculate insulation requirements. A friend is currently refurbing a property in South Wales and has been told to put 75mm PIR in between the rafters and a foil quilt underneath. The rafters are only 4x2s and so he's had to add a batten underneath to get a 50mm air gap. I've put this into the calculator and the U value is 0.39. I refurbed my own property from 2002 regs some time ago and had to put 100mm in between and 50mm underneath. I'm currently doing a self build and to achieve the 0.11 that I need, I am putting 200mm of mineral wool in between and 150mm on top. Are these foil quilts that good and why doesn't the calculator recognise the U value of them? Thanks.

Thanks JohnMo

So, I'm guessing these were out prior to MVHR systems and they don't work, nowhere near as good? Do they only need fitting in bathrooms and is there a benefit to add them to other rooms? I'm assuming that these are what has been specified by the SAPS company. Why would they not specify a MVHR system, considering it's an ICF property?

Is this it?

There's a lot to take in, but I'll start speaking to some companies this week. Thanks all for the help and advice.

I haven't had an airtightness test done yet. I'll have a look into these today, thanks. I'm in a similar situation to you. A builder with some decent tradesmen friends to help out.

Iceverge I was speaking to another self builder nearby. He told me it would be around £1500, but he may not have a clue. I'll speak to a few companies tomorrow and get some quotes. TerryE 12kw per day to use? That seems expensive to run.

This hasn't been specified by building regs and I only found out about them a few days ago. I was planning to do exactly what Redtop has stated. I have gone over on insulation and my SAP calculations have come back at 88 and I can't get it any higher, unless I add renewable energy. They also added this and there is no mention of a mvhr system. Other specification - Ventilation via 5 intermittent extract fans, extracts from each kitchen and wet rooms. - 100% of the lighting is to be low energy.

Depends on what things? I didn't realise they were that expensive. I have been told that I could get a system for around £1500 and they can be installed pretty easy. I've also been told that they are not worth the extra cost as it will take so long to actually get a return from the energy savings.

Hi. I am building a 3 storey 350m2 ICF property and have just been told, that I should install a MVHR system. I have heard about these in the past, but have no experience with them. What I would like to know is: 1. Are they worth installing 2. Do they replace extractor fans in bathrooms 3. What would be a rough price to accommodate that size property Thanks.

I'm just wondering if anyone has advice on drying out cement based products. On the area of cement fillet that hasn't been covered yet, the primer was completely washed off when it rained yesterday. Even though the surface was dry when I applied it and the primer was also dry, it was obviously still damp underneath. I've now put tarpaulins over the top of the walls to keep the wall, fillet and slab dry. However, there must be condensation building up as the walls are still getting damp and the moisture is running down onto the fillet/slab. In an ideal situation, I would be doing this in warm, dry weather, but I have to try and get it done as it's holding me up. Using a heat gun is just going to dry the surface, so it won't really be a solution, I need to try and dry the whole thing. Thanks.

I had some damp coming through on the garage, but as soon as it was rendered it stopped. I don't really like the fact that there's no cavity, if there was a crack in the render it would more than likely track through to the inside. If I ever built this way again, I would definitely create a cavity with an outer leaf of block or brick.

That looks identical to what I'm using. I'm calling it peel and stick, but it's a cold applied bitumen membrane. https://wykamol.com/products/sureproof-waterproofing-membrane Did you put a 45° fillet at the bottom or just go straight down to the bottom of the wall?

Thanks. I've got the rep coming net Wednesday, so I'll hopefully get it sorted.

I'm assuming that you mean you are using Nudura ICF for the retaining wall and will be using waterproof concrete in this. If so, I wasn't allowed to do this as you cannot inspect the wall for the correct consolidation of the concrete once it's inside the ICF. It needs to be standard shuttering, where it gets removed after the concrete is set, so that it can be inspected and repaired if needs be. I decided on A and C systems as I'd already purchased the Nudura for the retaining walls. I also think A and C systems is a more robust way, as anything that does come through will just get drained outside. I't may be a bit overkill, but as I've been to other properties where they've had water coming through to the inside, it's a really expensive job to have to rectify it.