deuce22

Ok, thanks. What is the minimum U value that you need for roofs. I'm looking at these 2 sites and they differ massively. https://www.burtonroofing.co.uk/blog/u-values-and-building-regulations-for-insulating-your-home/ http://www.homemicro.co.uk/download/lzc_uvalue.pdf The first site states 0.11 for new builds in Wales and the second site states 0.25 for 2010, 2013 and 2016 regs in the table at the bottom of the page.

I have been told and experienced the exact opposite. In the last property, I had the ridges cemented on and the condensation build up in cold weather was terrible. It also used to freeze in very cold weather and you could here the cracking as it was thawing out during the day. It then caused damp stains on the plaster underneath. I then replaced the ridges with the vented system and cured it. I like the idea of not having to insulate underneath as it does reduce the head height. I've just been looking at the U value tables and it states that you need to achieve 0.11 for roofs.

No. I didn't know that this was an option. The last property I had was a bungalow and I refurbished it, so that I had vaulted ceilings. I was told by the BCO then, that to achieve the U vales that I needed, that I had to put 100mm in between and 40mm under the timbers. I'm not 100% sure how U or R values work, but I'm sure it's more than that now. What is the exact detail that you are doing to achieve the values? How do you vent it. I'm using a vented ridge system. Thanks.

Thanks. What U or R value have you achieved with this detail? Is there a reason you used PIR insulation over the foil quilt for the thermal bridging? What depth are those I beams, What thickness of Omni fit have you got? What ductwork are you talking about? Have you got any knowledge about spray foam insulation? A friend used it on his self build, but had to pay to have it installed. He said it is the number 1 way to insulate a property. He also used it on the floors and star walls for sound proofing. I would use it, but would prefer to do it myself, rather than pay a company.

Hi. I am looking for some advice on the different insulations options that can be used. I'm building an ICF property, so I've already got wall insulation. It's mainly for the floors and vaulted roof, in between the timbers. I'm insulating the roof of the garage now, with 150mm of Celotex and then I'm thinking of using a foil quilt for the thermal bridging. PIR insulation is the worst material to work with and I don't want to use it again for the house roof, which will also be a vaulted roof. I've been looking at an open cell spray foam and it looks a lot easier and quicker to do. What have other done here? Thanks.

Thanks for all your help. I've got some things to think about.

I'm not 100% sure, but I'm guessing he's chosen 203mm steels, so that it doesn't create a bulkhead and because they're only 203mm, they're not strong enough on their own, that's why there's 2 together. The ground floor is not open plan. I have attached an image of the layout. Would I have to dig out foundations for the walls to be supporting or could they just rest on top of a 150mm slab? Would 4x2 walls, strengthened with OSB be strong enough to take the weight of the floor joists above? Why do you point out that they are still 4m long joists? I've just fitted 9x3 floor joists to my garage, which are just over 5m and they are fine. What length joists would you want to be using? What would you use instead of UC beams? Thanks.

Hi. I have attached an image of what the structural engineer has come up with for the design of the floor for both the first and second floor. I'm racking my brain to try and come up with another way without having to use all that steel. Any other ideas? Thanks.

Thanks Dave. I'll take a look through the brands you've mentioned. I just did a quick look and it seems like I'll need an 8 person one.

Hi. I am looking for some advice on which treatment plant to buy. The property is 6 bedrooms and the drainage company I was planning to use quoted for a 6 person Klargester. Anybody installed a treatment plant? Thanks.

That wouldn't be a problem. Who exactly do I need to look for, for the fire report? Thanks.

Thanks Ali G.

I did think they were from another country Ali G. I'm not going to keep the same lay out now, I'd like to continue the staircase from the ground floor to the 1st and 2nd floor and rearrange the 2nd floor. I'd like to keep the stairs open and I don't want to alter the first floor. Are sprinkler systems not enough?

I'll look into that Conor thanks. The top floor is in the loft space, so the wall is only going to be about 1300mm high. Is there another way to get access out through the roof onto an outside fire escape? Thanks.

I have attached the images of the 3 floors. The 1st floor is open plan with a kitchen, so I'm guessing that's what's causing the problem. I have read that this is still ok if you install a mist or sprinkler system.

Hi. I'm looking for some advice on the best way around fire regs on a 3 storey house. The house has bedrooms on the ground on top floor and the living area to the first. I originally had a double vaulted ceiling to the living area with a mezzanine balcony on the top floor, leading to 2 bedrooms. However, I have now decided to do away with the balcony and just have the 2 bedrooms on the top floor. The BCO was concerned about having a protected route in case of a fire. There is an open staircase from the ground to first floor and then I had an enclosed staircase in the corner of the room to take you up to the top floor. As there is no mezzanine now, I would like to just carry on up with the staircase from the ground floor. I've been told that I still need to protect the staircase, so it would have to be enclosed and this would look out of place in an open plan living area. I've been looking at images for ideas and I've seen plenty, that are similar to what I'm planning, but they are not enclosed. How have they got around the regs for this? I've attached some images of a staircases from the ground to 2nd floor that are not protected. Thanks.

Ok. I didn't go into to much detail as I didn't think you'd be interested. I'm building a house and detached garage and I'm currently living on site in a static caravan. The plan was to move into the garage, remove the caravan and then spend the next 18 months building the house. The mains gas will be connected directly to the house, but that won't be until I've got the main structure up and the caravan gone (because it is in the way). That will probably take me about another 4 months, so was thinking of an alternative. The garage has an upstairs, which will be converted into a one bed accommodation and once I'm in the house will only be used intermittently throughout the year. The other idea was to install a gas boiler and run it off gas bottles, until I get the mains installed.

I'll take a look into it. Thanks.

So they seem like they are up to the job, but sounds expensive to run. What brand is the one in your office?

Hi. I'm building a large detached garage to move into, whilst continuing the house build and I'm contemplating installing an electric boiler instead of gas. There will be a bath and shower, as well as 5 radiators. Has anybody had any experience with an electric boiler? Are they good enough? Thanks.

Thanks for the advice.

Ok, Thanks all for the advice.

He pinned the felt up the side of the window, but it was leaking in the corner of where the felt was cut. Is it worth me going around the whole window and taping it? Whats the best tape for this? Thanks.

I am trying to channel water around the back and side of my foundations, so that I can start laying the ICF blocks and foam them to the concrete. I have screwed a 4x2 to the concrete and want to seal the joint. I have tried 3 different sealants and 4 different paint compounds. All have said that they can be applied on damp surfaces and some said even underwater. Not one of them has worked properly, they don't seem to be bonding to the damp concrete and has no chance of bonding where there is water. The bank at the back and side is constantly releasing water, even after weeks of dry weather and I need some way of diverting this. Has anyone got any ideas to solve this or any product that actually does bond to wet/damp surfaces? Thanks.

Hi. Should a roof window be completely sealed and watertight without fitting the flashings and tiles? I've had a roofer fit 1 of 4 windows and he has just draped the felt up the sides of the window. He didn't have time to cut the tiles around and fit the flashings before it started raining and there were two areas where water was dripping in. He said that it will be fine once the tiles and flashings have been fitted as no water will get through onto the felt. I know that tiles are not 100% waterproof and will let water through during persistent rain. Thanks.