GrantMcscott

Hi Here is a phot of one of the elevations. It is a new build and the black line will be roughly where the gutter will be but not running past the windows. The whole roof will need to be drained by the gutter and the windows have a hidden gutter in them that drains into the main gutter. The walls will be a mix of render in bit and sections of stone.

That is the issue there is no design for it it is a miss and know the roof is on it is like a bit of Sh*t what do I do moment. I was thinking that due to the lengths of guttering being in small sections then the area of roof is very small the water is collected from. Due to this the flow rate will be greatly reduced thus I can get away with a smaller drainage pipe. I could connect a 32mm MDPE pipe to the back of the gutter and run it down the cavity or inside the house and out the bottom. This would have no joins in it and if in the house can insulate it so no noise. I could put a mesh at the top to stop it getting blocked.

I am ok with them being all in one length with no joins as I do not want something that looks like this

No it is a pitched roof. Was thinking about brining the down pipe inside and putting it in the service cavity.

Hi Is there any way you can hide down pipes? Due to the windows on my house being in the roof and the wall (see pic)it is causing the need to have lots of downpipes for the guttering. If the guttering goes past the window it will be in line with your eye. On the elevation there is actually another set of the windows so 5 in total Is there any clever solutions to solve this.

Does anyone know of a reputable company to lay UFH and then put the screed on it. Based in East Ayrshire Scotland. Also do you have your plumbing in on top of the slab for toilet and a waste pipe to the main soil stack. So it will be bellow screed and UFH and in the insulation layer as I do not want it round the walls and boxed in. thanks

I am still pondering if I should move the bottom window or not. I was going to move it but then you are right @the_r_sole. I can not make my mind up if it matters or not

Hi was just wondering what other people think. Just took a photo of my house to show someone and noticed that the windows are not symmetrical. do you think it matters I a, not sure if it looks odd or not. The top half of the building will be white render and the bottom will be stone.

Thanks I was looking for something to go in the utility. So this website fountain-filters.co.uk/Private+Water+Supplies/0_CAAA004.htm but do not know how big the filters are

Hi It looks good but was hoping for something a bit smaller

Hi I am going to be getting my fresh water from a tank supplied by a spring higher up in a field. I need a filter to remove any debris from the water this filter can be put in the house or outside if possible. Also planning on installing a UV filter to kill bacteria. Does anyone have any experience and recommendations in this area or even a filter that does both bacteria and debris thanks

Hi Gus, The build is just outside Muirkirk so not far away. None of the steel is in contact with soil or the fill under the floor and all the steel is in the timber frame zone hopefully dry zone. So there is PIR insulation in some of the webs and for some off them there is not. By the time I found this out it had been blocked over. The top is still open So will try and get some down at least half way. was planning on filling in all the gap with expandable foam. I will make sure it is well insulated on the inside. PROPOSED_SECTIONS.pdf

Yes there is loads wrong floors not level, he has cut doublers in the roof trusses. Anything he touched there is an issue with but getting there.

Hi Gus The house is in East Ayrshire, the builder has been sacked and went bust. The steel well encased in concrete so no way to get protection to it now, and Architect says it should out last my lifetime. There was a SE spec but builder ignored it. here is a pick of it going in and in some places there is a metre of concrete below it. Ground is very wet and I will be draining round the house. on the other question should I need to insulate the I section on the outside and do I need water proof paper over it or is the block and cavity enough.

Hi, the white paint is meant for corrosion protection. The builder that put the portal frame up did not paint the steel that went in the ground so raw steel is concreated in. I am worried about water coming in from the outside,and corroding the steel. As there is block or timber clad and a 50 mm cavity water should not be able to get to the steel I hope. Some of the steel has breathable membrane over it and some has not and some is painted and some is not and been blocked in. Attached is some of the steel erected and another of what it looked like a few weeks ago.

Hi I have a timber frame house that has a portal frame in it as well. The house has a 50mm cavity. The Steel I beams should the be insulated in the cavity. At the minute we have some of the, insulated and some not and all are covered by breathable membrane. i am not 100% sure to insulate them or not due t moisture and just let them have air flow to keep them dry and insulated in the inside of the house or it does not matter. thanks s

Due to scheduling and some of the roof not being able to go on as it rests on block work. All the outer walls are being built out of block except one which is timber clad. The frame has sat built for about a year and I am leaving 30 mm at the top instead of 20mm to allow for the additional weight from the tiles and more settlement. will this be OK as normally you would tile the roof before building outer walls. thanks

Due to the way the person erected the timber frame the cavity below DPM will be a bit wider that the standard 50mm (may be up to 10 to 30mm in places) that will be above DPM Does it matter if the insulation below the bi-fold doors and standard doors does not fill the cavity or do I even need the insulation in the cavity below DPM if there is 20 mm of insulation below the door.

Is there an alternative to the glue needed for SCHUCO BI-fold doors to put the frame together as the fell of my seat when they told me how much £150 2 part adhesive to fill the mitre joint £230 for the applicator gun £40 for the nozzles for the glue £70 for the 1 part mitre joining compound + delivery and VAT £500 to join the corners of the frame for a set of bi-folds

Just realised that screed will not tie block work in as there will be insulation round the edges to keep screed away from block and thermal bridging.

Hi My timber frame is raised of the slab by one course of block. I have just noticed on on wall of the house about 13 metre run that the cement has not went off it is like sand. As the timber kit has the blocks in compression and attached to steel work in places and there will be a 60mm screed going on and covering the block by 60 mm will this be OK. the block was laid nearly a year ago if not what can I do to fix the issue as I would need to take the kit down to relay the block. thanks

Hi Some of my build is stone cladding see pic (for colour of stone only) and some white render with anthracite grey windows. The windows have a stub sil on them so need to put in a cast sill but struggling with colour. Any suggestions would be great and where to buy

Supperjohmg I know exactly what you mean tearing my hair out

I will tell him to make sure it laps correctly and the OSB is cover but if it is wonky will it mater if it is lapped correctly

When on the scaffolding I am to close to capture the issue and you can not see it from the ground. try to explain better so if you were doing it properly you would lay it parallel with the roof eaves. Mine is not parallel it runs down hill by 30 degrees. At the eaves on the left hand side you see about 200 mm of the OSB and if you look on the right hand side the membrane is down to the eaves does that help