Redbeard

While the extension is incomplete it is the best time to chase and resolve the leaks. They will bug the hell out of you in future if you don't. I agree with @Russell griffiths that the membrane on the sloping soffits looks like standard thin poly VCL. There's a small chance it could be something else but that green is suspiciously indicative of 'Bargain Basement VCL'. I'd like Intello too. Please do not give up on leak-finding! I assume the walls are leaky too? But even if they are not, as far as the roof goes you want (a) the right membrane and (b)someone to make sure it is as tight as a tight thing from an air-tightness POV. If the reason you have given up with a/t is the difficulty of finding the holes have you thought of making a basic 'blower door' (old desk fan or car radiator fan in a lump of ply) to tape into an opening? If you de-pressurise the room you're checking then, certainly in this weather, you will feel cold air rushing in. Arm yourself with good-quality a/t tape and you're off. I am sure someone(s?) on here has posted pics of such a home-made fan. Found it: 1st post on p.4 of this: Good luck. Do not give up, and please do not let them begin to plasterboard till you are happy.

Yes and no. The spare tiles were in case you cracked the existing when drilling. The 'platform' could be made of anything. 9 or 10mm ply or cement-board cut slightly undersized so that you can 'point up' with silicone. Equally if the tiles are c 10mm and you like cutting tiles, use tiles, again undersized and pointed. Re the fixing of the cistern, I have a sneaking feeling that one of mine (they are all close-coupled) never got fixed to the wall anyway, with no disastrous effects. I'll go and have a look later!

I can't see infill of 10mm looking awful, so go for that. I guess you may have to plug and re-drill the holes for the cistern, risking tile cracks, but (unless I have missed something) that looks like being your worst potential problem. Do you have a couple of spare tiles?

But it easily could with a heavy, out of balance thud. The proper fixings aren't expensive at all, allow you to tighten it fully and I'd think add some hygiene advantage too. I am wholly in agreement with you. I was not suggesting that screws-only is good practice; simply that it doesn't always go wrong - immediately. The plastic 'hats' (less 'top-hat' than the description I gave) are the right thing.

I have seen 'upside-down top-hat' plastic washers used, but equally I have just had steel screws. Not had a pan break yet...

I may have misunderstood, but if 40mm is limited to 3m, how is your 4.5m run (with a 90 deg bend in) OK? And is the length limitation about potential siphoning, or about the need for a rodding eye? If the latter then I can see how you could 'engineer' a rodding eye at the 90 deg bend so that it truly is 3.1m and 1.4m, but if it's about potential siphoning then you still have at least a theoretical problem...? Can you clarify?

'Weld mesh' to me summons up a picture of 100mm squares. This won't be what you mean, I think. Do you mean 'expanded metal'? If so (based on 'mice men' having told me on the past that mice can squeeze through a hole the diameter of a ball-point pen) that may not keep mice out. I was considering it recently re rats. I definitely do not think an extra layer of PIR will help keep rodents out. If they will eat one layer they will eat 2. I am not 100% certain I have seen mouse damage to PIR (maybe they don't like the foil?...) but maybe I have. I would not risk it with the foil/PIR itself as the only barrier below the floorboards.

Definitely not normal. I have only ever fitted one, and cannot remember how the top trim went on, but it was solid when we'd done it. I hate 'instruction pics' with no words. My brain just does not work that way!

As others have said, too late if they do, as you have already started, but I had a look on their site too and they don't *seem* to have one. On the other hand probably quite a few LAs have websites which are unclear w.r.t. the CIL. I have only had experience of one, but that was not abundantly clear. Even that is fine if you can get to speak to a human (with the right knowledge) but it can be so hard actually to get to speak to someone...

Not used the makes you refer to, but many years ago (30-40) we used to use a lot of Alumasc cast alu guttering and alu fall-pipes. Brilliant stuff. A quick search suggests it still exists.

Your red flags could be justified or you could have a very helpful architect trying to 'get you ahead'. In the latter case the fault would be not to have explained that to you. Not sure what 'analysis', but do you mean the arch has given your personal details to someone without your permission?

Cut the hole - seriously. (I suppose it does to some extent depend what the construction is but I am guessing that making a hole and subsequently making good will be easier than explaining to a twitchy would-be buyer why you've only got 90% of a warranty).

Who is providing the guarantee? Internorm (the 'kit' supplier) or the fitters? If, as I hope, the former, then they should inspect and sort.

I don't know EPS200, so I don't know for certain whether it wouldn't 'suck' at all in adverse conditions. XPS definitely doesn't, though, AFAIK.

Ah! That's different to mine. We trowelled on and textured (plastic trowel, flat, 'rolling on the aggregate beads') almost immediately, so the 'visual test for 'patchiness' ' was done as we went along. Edit: So as not to mislead, ours was not K Rend, but another, not dissimilar, product.

Ah, there's the rub. If I am seeing pic. 2 correctly then at least 1 joist (and how many more?) does not extend across the cavity. (a 'missed trick', perhaps, as the OP says (I think) that it is a newly-laid floor). Looks as if some brickwork and floor will maybe have to be removed in order to be able to 'sister' a new oversailing piece of joist alongside. Not knowing the nature of the sub-floor (is it moist, for example?) I would not risk suggesting some sort of load-bearing/insulating fill to that cavity.

Did they not sheet it up? When we did ours in an October, much later (as ever) than originally planned, we were watching the weather like hawks, and sheeting up with hessian after every pass.

Agree wholeheartedly. Always a very huge way outside my price range. Ultimately had my V twin the across the frame, and no chain! Please forgive the M/C-related hijack!

In my limited experience It was b----y hard to do an 'invisible mend' on patches like that. I hope your patches don't 'show'. My experience was doing it myself. If someone else is doing it for you then they have to try to get the 'invisible mend', and arguably re-do it if they cannot. Again, hopefully the pictures are not 'telling the story', and it's not what I think. EDIT: @Conor must have posted his while I was 'composing'. He got an 'invisible mend' - things can obviously be more positive than I suggested. Good! And good luck.

Hard to tell from a photo, but based on what I seem to see yes, I think I'd be a bit concerned. The 'bald patches' look like... well, bald patches, where the grit has not spread evenly. But maybe I am seeing what's not actually there... Are the 'bald' patches smooth?

Silly me! Posted asking where the Duke was, without looking at the 'thumbnail' pic! Too little of it to guess which model, for me.

Rather than metal straps we use to use (for a range of timber buildings) 50 x 50 sticks fixed to the face of the bottom beam and purlins and then screwed sideways into the rafters. Don't have a pic to hand.

No, but have you tried Allan Brothers? Never used their alu clad (which are imported) but a client has used several 'batches' of their UK-made timber windows and was v satisfied.

Good call, but the use of squirty foam at all will be governed by the answer(s) to the ventilation question posed previously. Squirty foam should only be used in well-ventilated conditions which, in my experience, often do not exist in sub-floor voids. Also having to use the gun at an angle increases the risk of sputtering and 'bounce-back'. ('Sputtering' when gun delivers liquid propellant instead of foam because the canister is not vertical, and 'bounce-back' when that liquid his a joist and splashed back, under your safety glasses (which you wear because goggles steam up) and you go to the local eye casualty. Don't ask me how I know...

... or is it just the bottom flange of a 'box and tray'-type lintel?