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That will probably do the job. Mulching scrub is hard on the gear housing on the end as it gets jolt when you suddenly hit something that it can't cut through. The mulching heads like this are less prone to getting wrapped up. You work them more up and down and less side to side. https://skylandequipment.com/products/oregon-3-tooth-shredder-mulcher-blade-4mm-thick-fits-25-4mm-and-20mm?currency=GBP&variant=34618267336842&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&stkn=d85a26c18b7e&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=22742976425&gbraid=0AAAAADvDybxZVzZPipNlU5V_8GLdBVwEZ&gclid=CjwKCAjwpOfHBhAxEiwAm1SwEqcAqNTCKEDt7gvSnht1gPrO1nJTAf_dFIU9WkC60K7r6Ewo0HnXpRoCEp0QAvD_BwE I like my battery tools but be surprised if there is a battery brush cutter than can handle that unless is it's a fully pro jobby with a price to match

You need fairly robust kit to handle a thicket like that. I've got a 7HP wheeled strimmer and think it would struggle with whats in the video Some suggestions A brush cutter with a mulching blade Get a slashing hook Lots of waving around a decent hedge trimmer

News to me. I have the 'Handbook of Hardwoods' an HMSO publication. These are oaks in it. American Red American White European Holm Japanese Turkey I always find it amusing that Balsa is a hardwood though

The last one sprung a sudden leak making a right old mess. Probably 15 years old at the time. Had a second hand one laying about which I popped in. I stumbled on a thread somewhere with lots of guys saying new ones were rubbish and only lasting 5-7 years. Good to hear maybe they are not as bad as that thread made me think. Yes the system has inhibitor on it

We are losing pressure on our GSHP based UFH system. I have been unable to find any leaks so guessing its the expansion vessel which is an old second hand one anyway. Is it worth splurging on a stainless replacement as I hear the steel ones have a pretty short life these days? Thanks

Our ground looked appalling but on the recommend of a friendly landscaper we seeded it up. Within a season a we had a lovely green lawn. Honestly I could not believe how well grass could grow on what was basically subsoil.

In which case whats the point? Silicone works just looks poor when it has to be thick, least it does when I do it haha

Nice idea if it works. I hate sealing around toilet pans and it never looks good

Yep, go for high cast acrylic. Perspex yellows quite quickly IME and polycarbonate is mighty expensive and doesn't have the same clarity.

Just for balance we have PIR boards between the rafters with multifoil below and have been delighted with how easy the place is to heat.

Obvious when you think about it but just something I overlooked until yesterday. We live and learn as they say 🙂

Thanks for the suggestions. Mine were Fire Angel with the a built in 10 year battery so not cheapies but they haven't managed a year. I was just wondering if dust gets into them can that mess them up long term? I'm doing major renovations and at times the house has been full of dust, once quite fairly triggering the smoke alarm.

Having problems with pretty new stand alone ones as they go off for no reason so both have been removed to aid sleep. Clearly I need to sort some new ones pronto but dont want this nonsense again. Are any stand alone ones good or do I need to fit hardwired ones to get reliability? Thanks

I work outside a lot and always have a keen eye on the weather. Different weather services can give quite different takes even at short range as there are several weather models and they dont all use the same one. When things look iffy I resort to the rainfall radar from Netweather to see if I have an hour two's dry weather ahead but no help if you are planning a day ahead. https://www.netweather.tv/live-weather/radar Over time you get to see some patterns that help with localised conditions more than the forecast. For us a few showers from the SW often ends up with train of showers for much of the day. On the other hand when we get forecast rain/snow from the east I can be pretty sure it wont amount to much as the moors blocks it but the forecast doesn't allow for that.

Might be worth scrolling through the Hettich and Hafele catalogues https://web.hettich.com/en-ro/products-eshop/handle-collection#/ https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/products/handles-knobs/10/

On this map you can get a good idea of who at least fits efficient systems in your area https://heatpumpmonitor.org/map

For the time being I have just run a conduit from the back of the mirror to the light switch and fan isolator in the bedroom. If it needs a switch/fuse/other the sparky can add one later

Morning all I cant get hold of my electrician at present so hope you can help. We have a zone 2 bathroom mirror that needs a power supply. I realise this will come from the lighting circuit but dont know if it needs an isolation switch, fused spur or something else. The lighting is on a new RCD protected circuit and I can have connection outside of the room the other side of the stud wall. I'm keen to get the wiring in place as I want to board up the stud wall ready for the plasterer. I should add my sparky is pretty hands off and is happy for me to do all the donkey work as long as I get it right haha. Thanks

Yep just a softwood with some stain on it

To be honest I dont even use or have the app as I get lost with all the variables. Not having the option to do more things I dont do is not a loss haha. The boxing in can be removed relatively easily if necessary. Probably 30mins of fiddling about but in hindsight would have mounted it in a more accessable place but was rushed into making a decision when the install was happening

If the glue joint is good it will be as strong as a solid piece of wood.

Frustratingly the white interface is now boxed in as I was told I wouldn't need to touch it. Fingers crossed the kinked pipes are the problem as they are coming to replace them at the end of the month

"Or too high a pump speed for the system " Not something I can adjust as far as I know. Its all under the control of the Vaillant Arotherm ASHP

Yes they were paid to do a brand new install. Those pipes are remnants from a heating system that was put in and removed back in the 70s. I knew they had used these short sections at the time but I was not aware of the kinks in the pipes. I dont think they will make any fuss about coming back to sort this out as they seem a decent outfit.

Our ASHP system has been in just under a year. When running the first couple of rads are noisy. I was resigned to this as there's no obvious fault but that changed today. Doing some work under the floors and noticed these creased pipes. They reused some ancient pipes they found which got around some awkward steps but it looks like these old pipes were badly creased whenever they were put in. These creases are just after the noisy rads. My thinking is the restrictions are forcing most of the water through the rads which are prior to the damage and the high flow rates are making the radiators noisy. Is this the likely cause or am I reading too much into this?