Beau

To be honest I dont even use or have the app as I get lost with all the variables. Not having the option to do more things I dont do is not a loss haha. The boxing in can be removed relatively easily if necessary. Probably 30mins of fiddling about but in hindsight would have mounted it in a more accessable place but was rushed into making a decision when the install was happening

If the glue joint is good it will be as strong as a solid piece of wood.

Frustratingly the white interface is now boxed in as I was told I wouldn't need to touch it. Fingers crossed the kinked pipes are the problem as they are coming to replace them at the end of the month

"Or too high a pump speed for the system " Not something I can adjust as far as I know. Its all under the control of the Vaillant Arotherm ASHP

Yes they were paid to do a brand new install. Those pipes are remnants from a heating system that was put in and removed back in the 70s. I knew they had used these short sections at the time but I was not aware of the kinks in the pipes. I dont think they will make any fuss about coming back to sort this out as they seem a decent outfit.

Our ASHP system has been in just under a year. When running the first couple of rads are noisy. I was resigned to this as there's no obvious fault but that changed today. Doing some work under the floors and noticed these creased pipes. They reused some ancient pipes they found which got around some awkward steps but it looks like these old pipes were badly creased whenever they were put in. These creases are just after the noisy rads. My thinking is the restrictions are forcing most of the water through the rads which are prior to the damage and the high flow rates are making the radiators noisy. Is this the likely cause or am I reading too much into this?

I did get them around a year ago and at the time there was nothing like this for sensible money in the UK. I need some more so thanks for the find

We have all outward opening doors and some are pretty heavy (wooden). Windage is most definitely a problem on occasion made worse as we are an exposed spot and the doors are larger than normal. After having had the door ripped out my hand on several occasions l came across these which are ideal as they absorb the shock and work as a catch as well https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B01MQH5L58?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title You can get similar in the UK but at a far higher price.

What are your woodworking skills like? Clean off the paint and glue a 12mm packer all around the existing frame to bring it flush with the plasterboard.

If I have understood the problem correctly a parliament hing used as intended would allow the door to clear the plasterboard but would leave the door inset into the opening. As suggested you may well be able to modify a pair to do what you describe

Never measured the glazing area but yes I suspect so.

We have two properties here. A barn I converted around 18 years ago which was insulated above regs of the time (below now) and a farmhouse thats work in progress. The farmhouse has no floor insulation and I'm yet to do the lofts. All it has is EWI of 90mm (EPS) on the old 600mm thick stone walls and it has not got above 22C downstairs throughout even though its peeked at 31C outside. The barn on the other hand has sat in the mid to high 20s through the hot spell. It's been surprising to me how well the modestly insulated mass of the farmhouse has avoided overheating. It wasn't even bad to heat last winter! Looking forward to how much better it will be when the lofts are insulated

I'm no structural engineer but it looks fine to me. Taking that much out of the middle of the stringer would be a different matter As it's turned into share a picture of your home made stairs these are mine and are made of maple and cherry built around a central steel box

I've just laid a Mira Flight tray with some OB1 and needed a 2mm packer under one corner. I went for blobs at the the nodes and all around the edge to make sure the OB1 was thick enough to bridge any gaps. On ours the edge protrudes down around 2mm-3mm more than the rest of the tray so if going for a continuous bead you will need a lot CT1/OB1. I went through 2 tubes with just a 2mm packer and blobs.

35mm is very big for any masonry bit. I would look for a cheap diamond core drill bit and set up a simple guide on the wall so its guided down the right line at the start. Normally you wouldn't need a guide but as you are just enlarging an existing hole I think it would be necessary

Just cut tight. As you say wood does not expand and shrink much along it's length

Sounds perfect. Think the range for fall is 1 in 40 max, 1 in 110 min so your right in the middle

Some more options on fixed angles would be nice but as was pointed out I could of used some of the other angles available in the brown 110mm. I think in this case the problem is me being an amateur. A pro would have know what components were available. I have now found an ideal coupler to solve my problem. Also I have chosen not to use variable angle systems when they are probably fine so my cautiousness has hindered progress I'm going to have this on the back of the pan and then a 45 degree onto the 110mm waste. https://www.monsterplumb.co.uk/mcalpine-wc-con7-14-degree-angle-rigid-pan-connector-110mm?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=22385443807&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22375516008&gbraid=0AAAAADRbF0WMYsYZoKrYUagiN7GtkSFsm&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu7TCBhCYARIsAM_S3NgL8Y7mX1v5wu0edW-hPP_yfKCogYm_unyvPoeFMxfveUBoTGU-n0EaAum2EALw_wcB

No just one pump and thats in the ASHP and its my understanding it controls the speed and I cant adjust it. The ASHP system is in the farmhouse and only has rads. All rads were installed with the ASHP so hopefully sized right. It's only the first few rads in the system that are noisy. I've seen several mentions of this problem in various places and I thought it happens because low temp rad systems need to have high flow rates. I've experimented with lockshield adjustment but the only way to make them quiet is to turn them off.

I'm just sharing my experience with both In my limited experience the noise from our ASHP system is worse than our GSHP system.

I was referring to the GSHPs circulation pumps

It's all internal in a utility room except the ground loops. It's an IVT Greenline C6 I guess it does make a noise but its the noise of a circulation pump which seems to sort of blend in. The ASHP varies a lot but is a bit intrusive if you are outside when its working hard. Mind you most of us will not be outside on a cold winters day haha. Also its sized more for when our place is finished so is working harder than it will need to when I'm done. We also get a noise from the water running through the rads which we never had with the GSHP combined with UFH. It maybe a design issue but its quite an obvious noise

We have had a GSHP in our barn for 18 years with UFH and have just installed an ASHP in the farmhouse. The GSHP is much quieter for sure but the ASHP is not especially noisy but quite noticeable in our quiet rural location when it's working hard (Vaillant Arotherm 7). The farmhouse is only part insulated, has EWI, yet to receive loft insulation, no floor insulation, rads, and in spite of these things the ASHP has managed to heat it at a COP of over 4 since installation last autumn according to its stats. No problems keeping it warm thats for sure. A new build with all its insulation should be a doddle to heat with an ASHP

I didn't know that. Every days a school day as they say Many thanks

Thanks Nick Yes, that's probably my only easy option. I did presume they were OK to cut down in length but dont want to mess with parts until I'm committed to a plan of attack. The 90 in the second picture is on 90mm pipe. Do you think it would be better to use that or swop to 110mm as soon as I'm through the Gerberit frame? I wondered if the extra flow through the smaller pipe so close to the pan might be beneficial at preventing blockages