Beau

Just another vote for lots of draws. I built quite a lot into our last kitchen but will be almost all draws in the next one. At the planning stages so interesting following this. As for 'Kettles/toasters/coffee makers/air fryers' I'm looking at a separate work area for these away from the main prep space. No way can I be bothered getting them all in an out of cupboards all the time. We got a combined microwave/airfryer which saves a bit of space

Reading more about I think you are right. I was overcomplicating things as ever haha I will see if my plasterer is happy to do this if I make up the wooden 'quirks' which seems to be the right term

We are doing up an old place on a limited budget. In the ideal world we would be replastering all the walls with lime but we simply dont have the budget but we dont want to make the place characterless either. Can we recreate this relatively easily with pink and plasterboard? I'm a woodworker by trade so can make most things if needed. I'm presuming it's not just a of making some dowel and bonding it in on the corners.

We bought a 'comfort hight' pan and the top of the seat is 475mm high. We got it as we have some elderly parents who come to stay and thought it would be nice for them. They have still to visit and we dont really like the extra hight but either of us are tall

Much appreciated 🙂

So is the joint pretty near invisible?

Is Multi Pane still the preferred option on here? The shower enclosure will be 900x1400 so I would need one edge to edge joint on show if using panels. Other option I've glanced at is micro cement which I had never heard of until recently. Having just dismantled an old shower room I was taken aback by the quantity of none recyclable waste when tiles are used hence looking at other options Thanks

As a cabinet maker of 30+ years I can safely say their patter is tosh. Yes solid wood expands and shrinks across its width but thats why solid doors are usually frame and panel construction to avoid the problems associated with movement. Also doors and draw fronts expanding and shrinking a little bit wont matter as there are shadow gaps between them so they wont fowl. I'm not against the look of some of the German Kitchens. Quite like some of the Nolte ones myself. Also I agree with John as when you get under the skin most of them are made in very much the same way with similar materials. What matters most in my experience is a quality fit. A cheap well fitted kitchen will look better than an expensive poorly fitted one

Thanks Onoff I like you taper the boards idea. Do you make a guide or just freehand cut your angle? I was intending to fully tape the joints I've done and if I get a 100mm wide roll I can bridge over the 50mm rafters completely eliminating any air leakage on the joints. No idea how well the foil tape holds up over time though if the boards shrink but it will be sandwiched between the next layer of PIR boards below the rafters. I always spray some water over surfaces before foaming Yes I was working on a 50mm air gap. No problems with ventilation as the roofing felt joints are pretty sloppy and we are in an exposed windy spot.

Thanks I did see that tape at a homebuilding show. Nice idea but as you say a tad expensive 🫣 "get it as tight as you can and inject some flexible expanding foam" is what I've been doing but I wasn't aware of this flexible foam so will track some down before doing the next part. Mind you if you only have a hairline crack its very difficult to get any in and looking at the foam it talks about flexing 25%. 25% of a nabby grabby bit is diddly squat! Might try Onoffs suggestion of a deliberate taper to leave room to properly get foam in if I can work out a neat way to cut a taper and hit my width marks With any luck problems there may have been with shrinking boards should have been ironed out but better safe than sorry.

4K ouch! We recently found an asbestos partition in our house. Did the removal ourselves but the specialist skip wasn't cheap. Think it was around £800 for the first tonne and £400 per tonne over that and we thought that was painful. All taken to Bridgewater to be buried.

Hi all. I just read something on here about PIR boards shrinking. This has got me a little concerned as I'm in the process of insulating between the rafters in a low bedroom. I dont have the hight to use lots of mineral wool on the sloping parts of the ceiling so how can I best mitigate any potential shrinkage? Thanks

Go for a battery machine if you afford too. Hedge trimmers sit about for ages between use and then often have fuel issues. Also petrol machines blow the fumes straight into your face when hedge trimming. I've gone for the pro Stihl as I already had that battery system and I'm sure lower spec machines would be fine. Run time is way longer than I can keep going

We fitted a Mira flight safe a few months back and really like. Just about to do an en suit and going to use the same again

Just a warning about Liebherr. We got one of their fridges as it was supposed to be the most efficient. It's not very old and the door seal is cracking. Spoke with a repair guy and he said it was a common problem with Liebherr and they can be very expensive to change. Neff induction hob and oven which are 15+ years old and been faultless

As mentioned above get a plug cutter. Dowels leave the end grain exposed so suck water in very easily so leads to premature rot unless using the most resilient species. I use a set similar to this which have no end of use over the years but OTT for just a one off job. Need a drill press for a perfect hole and plug https://www.axminstertools.com/8-piece-matching-plug-and-bit-set-8-15mm-700330?glCountry=GB&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA5Ka9BhB5EiwA1ZVtvD1e1nguThTD55cQEHEB_9XKrL3An9IxG935-l_0ikggaKn0mWLd1hoC8GYQAvD_BwE

Could you use a tile backer board XBS insulation like Jackoboard and just bond the herringbone straight to it? Ive only tiled onto it but would have thought with the right adhesive you could bond it to wood. Might be worth having a read of theirs and similar products specs

Get a Freely compatible TV? 'No dish, no box no need for an arial' https://www.freely.co.uk/

As you are clued up on these can you see any obvious problem with this bundle? Only nervous as its cheaper than I expected 🙂 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296685682787?_skw=geberit+wall+hung+toilet+frame&itmmeta=01JK8EKMECXEBCV8CR5HH046S8&hash=item4513d84063:g:N1UAAOSwqJpm4W9v&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlwJnobVTHF%2BBBT4d%2FM1P8G7jyhKvE0SA4rM9FOEMA5dN4UIJqKj6qtKLKvS3AJljm2t9S%2Bh8119dn1%2BZ0q7yOh9XYvYHngi1Jjn78Ai0ac6SQfPeVxWLl0HDCKsw%2F73Ph81WBqHTrpt9oXZRQRt5uFohHC0TLfKY1fBApl76TB9mvx9thsz4gM2ceeoDChH5u9FmVSUanbAiF1azlI7iF50wZjjoNvbpNgZqqYRIXI1S3zGcheav7b2AJK05u7vK4F8EnX0fAqy%2BvbLzzi6AgBlo5En7%2FYjAbeYZEIu%2BUvj2GLHmqq98gAFNmecv0K46E%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zHzo6aZQ

Fab Many thanks

Old thread but can you have a horizontal waste exit on these? Every diagram I can see shows a 90degree bend behind the pan going down or at right angles to the pan. Thanks

I see so do it on the wall. I had it in my head of making it up first but doing doing in 2 stages makes sense. To be fair I have just had a more reasonable quote than initial pricing so we will see. Thanks

Been a bit taken aback by the cost of insulated plasterboard in comparison with buying the materials separately. Would some low expansion foam work OK at bonding the PIR to the plasterboard? Thanks

Yes I was intending to use PIR between and below the rafters. Mineral wool above and between the ceiling joist as no presure on space there Thanks

Thanks Susie I've hunted around the internet for info and found others suggesting 50mm so I will go with that.