Beau

Just for balance we have PIR boards between the rafters with multifoil below and have been delighted with how easy the place is to heat.

Obvious when you think about it but just something I overlooked until yesterday. We live and learn as they say 🙂

Thanks for the suggestions. Mine were Fire Angel with the a built in 10 year battery so not cheapies but they haven't managed a year. I was just wondering if dust gets into them can that mess them up long term? I'm doing major renovations and at times the house has been full of dust, once quite fairly triggering the smoke alarm.

Having problems with pretty new stand alone ones as they go off for no reason so both have been removed to aid sleep. Clearly I need to sort some new ones pronto but dont want this nonsense again. Are any stand alone ones good or do I need to fit hardwired ones to get reliability? Thanks

I work outside a lot and always have a keen eye on the weather. Different weather services can give quite different takes even at short range as there are several weather models and they dont all use the same one. When things look iffy I resort to the rainfall radar from Netweather to see if I have an hour two's dry weather ahead but no help if you are planning a day ahead. https://www.netweather.tv/live-weather/radar Over time you get to see some patterns that help with localised conditions more than the forecast. For us a few showers from the SW often ends up with train of showers for much of the day. On the other hand when we get forecast rain/snow from the east I can be pretty sure it wont amount to much as the moors blocks it but the forecast doesn't allow for that.

Might be worth scrolling through the Hettich and Hafele catalogues https://web.hettich.com/en-ro/products-eshop/handle-collection#/ https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/products/handles-knobs/10/

On this map you can get a good idea of who at least fits efficient systems in your area https://heatpumpmonitor.org/map

For the time being I have just run a conduit from the back of the mirror to the light switch and fan isolator in the bedroom. If it needs a switch/fuse/other the sparky can add one later

Morning all I cant get hold of my electrician at present so hope you can help. We have a zone 2 bathroom mirror that needs a power supply. I realise this will come from the lighting circuit but dont know if it needs an isolation switch, fused spur or something else. The lighting is on a new RCD protected circuit and I can have connection outside of the room the other side of the stud wall. I'm keen to get the wiring in place as I want to board up the stud wall ready for the plasterer. I should add my sparky is pretty hands off and is happy for me to do all the donkey work as long as I get it right haha. Thanks

Yep just a softwood with some stain on it

To be honest I dont even use or have the app as I get lost with all the variables. Not having the option to do more things I dont do is not a loss haha. The boxing in can be removed relatively easily if necessary. Probably 30mins of fiddling about but in hindsight would have mounted it in a more accessable place but was rushed into making a decision when the install was happening

If the glue joint is good it will be as strong as a solid piece of wood.

Frustratingly the white interface is now boxed in as I was told I wouldn't need to touch it. Fingers crossed the kinked pipes are the problem as they are coming to replace them at the end of the month

"Or too high a pump speed for the system " Not something I can adjust as far as I know. Its all under the control of the Vaillant Arotherm ASHP

Yes they were paid to do a brand new install. Those pipes are remnants from a heating system that was put in and removed back in the 70s. I knew they had used these short sections at the time but I was not aware of the kinks in the pipes. I dont think they will make any fuss about coming back to sort this out as they seem a decent outfit.

Our ASHP system has been in just under a year. When running the first couple of rads are noisy. I was resigned to this as there's no obvious fault but that changed today. Doing some work under the floors and noticed these creased pipes. They reused some ancient pipes they found which got around some awkward steps but it looks like these old pipes were badly creased whenever they were put in. These creases are just after the noisy rads. My thinking is the restrictions are forcing most of the water through the rads which are prior to the damage and the high flow rates are making the radiators noisy. Is this the likely cause or am I reading too much into this?

I did get them around a year ago and at the time there was nothing like this for sensible money in the UK. I need some more so thanks for the find

We have all outward opening doors and some are pretty heavy (wooden). Windage is most definitely a problem on occasion made worse as we are an exposed spot and the doors are larger than normal. After having had the door ripped out my hand on several occasions l came across these which are ideal as they absorb the shock and work as a catch as well https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B01MQH5L58?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title You can get similar in the UK but at a far higher price.

What are your woodworking skills like? Clean off the paint and glue a 12mm packer all around the existing frame to bring it flush with the plasterboard.

If I have understood the problem correctly a parliament hing used as intended would allow the door to clear the plasterboard but would leave the door inset into the opening. As suggested you may well be able to modify a pair to do what you describe

Never measured the glazing area but yes I suspect so.

We have two properties here. A barn I converted around 18 years ago which was insulated above regs of the time (below now) and a farmhouse thats work in progress. The farmhouse has no floor insulation and I'm yet to do the lofts. All it has is EWI of 90mm (EPS) on the old 600mm thick stone walls and it has not got above 22C downstairs throughout even though its peeked at 31C outside. The barn on the other hand has sat in the mid to high 20s through the hot spell. It's been surprising to me how well the modestly insulated mass of the farmhouse has avoided overheating. It wasn't even bad to heat last winter! Looking forward to how much better it will be when the lofts are insulated

I'm no structural engineer but it looks fine to me. Taking that much out of the middle of the stringer would be a different matter As it's turned into share a picture of your home made stairs these are mine and are made of maple and cherry built around a central steel box

I've just laid a Mira Flight tray with some OB1 and needed a 2mm packer under one corner. I went for blobs at the the nodes and all around the edge to make sure the OB1 was thick enough to bridge any gaps. On ours the edge protrudes down around 2mm-3mm more than the rest of the tray so if going for a continuous bead you will need a lot CT1/OB1. I went through 2 tubes with just a 2mm packer and blobs.

35mm is very big for any masonry bit. I would look for a cheap diamond core drill bit and set up a simple guide on the wall so its guided down the right line at the start. Normally you wouldn't need a guide but as you are just enlarging an existing hole I think it would be necessary