HughF

More fool them, it was all down to rad sizing. We increased the emitter size in all the rooms, by quite a margin, along with new primary pipework. We had turned the flow temp down ‘a bit’ to try and make the rads less hot, but burn it for longer. The smart meter suggested we were using around 8kW when the boiler was firing. That corroborated my heat loss calcs.

MCS does require the system to supply 100% of the dhw and heating requirement, and no-one wants to install a system that’s too small.

It’s a shame the modulation ratio on 99% of heat pumps is so bad.

9kW heat pump here, replacing a 12kW baxi Bermuda…. The house was always freezing before, rads woefully undersized even for dT50…. Designed for 45 degree flow now, run at 48.5 in the end, just to get things up to 23 to keep everyone happy.

Good stuff, let me know how you get on.

I’ve seen them in the flesh in the Cool Energy trailer at the installer show. They are very nice units and are quiet in operation. Much nicer than the smiths ecovector that we ended up using (because they were the only ones that would fit over the doors). The wiring on the reverso ones does look a little complex though. The smiths have a built in thermal switch that will turn them off until the flow temp hits 37-38. Reverso units are rated for cooling though.

Is it a good book? Worth adding to the bookshelf?

I’m not usually one for warranties… if I can’t afford to replace a thing, I don’t buy a thing…

Very mild in the south west too… 12 degrees the other day.

Multiply the radiator output by 0.41 to go from delta-t 50 to delta-t 30 (70 degree flow, down to 50 degree flow).

Why not just use pre-routed chipboard floorboards? And yes, standard alpex is fine at 150mm. Use Whatever self leveller you can get cheap.

I find it quite noisy when on full fan , and my outdoor unit has a noisy rattle when it’s on full heating.

Tell them to leave the buffer in the van, you don’t need it. Tell them to move the Samsung controller down onto your wall where you’d have your thermostat, it functions perfectly well as a decent room stat on its own and nothing further is required. One of the best performing systems on the open energy monitor heatpump dashboard is a bufferless Samsung run on the Samsung controller… installed by a software engineer…

I’ll take some dB measurements of my indoor unit later for you all… about to install another one, they’re great bits of kit.

No way in hell am I paying an asbestos removal company to take this off... I'll pull the nails, slide the sheets down onto pallets and load them into a suitable skip. Going with insulated tin I think...

Know of anyone who can supply/give me pricing?

I'm after the cheapest possible uPVC windows, flush, floating mullion (french), white/white, double glazed. 1160wx1010h, 150 sill, no trickle vents. I've found justvaluedoors to offer something at £346/piece, cheaper than my usual supplier (modernupvc) - but as I need qty.14 I was hoping for some sort of a price break, but nothing forthcoming. Does anyone have any experience of sourcing anything super-cheap? This is for my off-grid shack in Dorset, which I might not stay in, but the timber single glazed windows are falling out and I need to do something, this spring.

I did PIR between the joists, new chipboard on top. Has made a massive difference to the performance of that room. Plenty of ventilation underneath still, we didn’t block the air bricks.

Octopus tracker seems the best option out there, from what I can see.

Completely unsuitable for us…. The thing just runs 24/7 at the moment on weather comp…

Just ufh in the house, no rads? If so, re-plumb. Buffer in the skip, flow and return straight to the manifolds, remove the actuator heads. get it running open loop on weather comp.

Avoid spreader plates, they’re rubbish… Plastic trays on the new floor and chuck a pallet of out-of-date self leveller over the whole lot? Probably the cheapest option.

Pump runs 24/7 at 30 degree flow in my place, I’ve just wired it to a switched-fused spur…. Heat pump runs 24/7 on weather comp too… not a single wall thermostat in the whole place. trvs in the bedrooms, that’s it.

Buy it, use it, return it back to Amazon…. or just keep it, they’re not expensive.

I thought AI (Auto mode) was actually load compensation on the LG?