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Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I had tried diluted bleach but it had no effect, it may have been too weak a mix though.

Hi folks Any recommendations for something to spray on render to get rid of green algae? It's a white thin coat Weber render. Plenty of trees near by so guess I'll be doing this every couple of years... Thanks

I'd guess that water sitting behind the wall is not great. Some info on this page may be useful if you've not already seen it. Scroll down a good bit to get to retaining walls. https://www.pavingexpert.com/featur03

I think I would go 'A', as I think it would suit the room shapes and also be continuous between rooms with no joins. But that's just my take, others may prefer other approaches. We had herringbone continuous through several rooms, aligned it centrally in the biggest room, and the rest were dictated by that. More than happy with it. Why don't you get a few boxes and lay some and play about with it?

Yes, but at cost. (I'm really watching the pennies now...) On the last stairs I did I bought lengths of planed whitewood and cut to length as I needed over 900mm, and then bought 900mm spindles for the landing. Wre v similar cost. The 'proper' spindles had a much better surface finish, edges better and less knots.

Hi folks, Could anyone suggest somewhere to get 41mm plain square stair spindles in northern ireland, that are 1100mm long? Primed or unprimed. Anywhere local I've tried only do 900mm long, and can't find any mainland GB suppliers that would send over to NI. Thanks

I have had exactly the same issue. We have 2 vent axia's. On one the display was not great but worked, the other did not show anything. By swapping the controls over i was able to show the control was not the issue. I went back to the supplier who sent me a new main control pcb, having it swapped has helped. Its still the case though that neither are particularly impressive. Mine do not appear to have back lights, which would have been helpful.

If you can get or build a small shelter or shed for the washing machine you'll likely be glad of it. It would take up valuable space and produce noise in a caravan. I can't think of a reason that 100ft would be a problem for water or electric, assuming the wires/pipes are suitable spec'd and installed. We were about 80m away, which was good. Wouldn't want to be really close, but depends on the site etc. Big lorries, diggers, things falling off scaffolding need to be considered. And if you have kids, that's another factor.

Thinking about this again, and looking at the 'panels, battery, inverter, AC heating element' option. If I get four panels around 400w each, would this inverter be suitable? https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/solax-power-x-1-1-0-7kw-single-phase-inverter-1-x-mppt-inc-dc-switch-x-1-0-7/p/628024 And what size of battery would be recommended? Bearing in mind the battery is only to smooth out, not be used as a storage device.

Ended up pretty much as per the drawing above, except with 100mm pir, and osb instead of ply. We also went for Rationel aluclad frames instead of pvc. Standard concrete cills, though might have been better with ones with a narrower part for the window to sit on.

Out of curiosity I asked my SE why he'd spec'd a UC for a horizontal beam and not a deeper lighter UB. He said due to torsional buckling. Slightly different situation as was supporting a wall, but no doubt you SE will have a justification for the choice.

+1 to what Declan and other responders have said. I got sign off a year ago (also in NI). About a week before we needed sign off I asked our BCO to come out and we walked around together, there were a few minor points which we then got sorted. Always found BC to be very helpful and willing to chat and give advice over the phone or to do a site visit. After all, their objective is to ensure a good quailty construction which is exactly the same as us self builders.

Velux windows are designed to work with or without counter battens.

It had sized up. Tried freeing it, but it's not great and still too stiff with the screws tightned. Looks a bit corroded inside.

I don't have a photo of it to hand, but the burner's model number has also disappeared over time...

Actually, looking at the data sheets they're not all the same, will study some more. Is it safe to assume the drive to them is all the same?

Yes, but there are a number of models it looks similar to.

Hi all I need to replace this oil pump from a boiler. It's a Danfoss, I can tell that much.... Unsurprisingly there appears to be a multitude of possible models it could be. Ideas ideas if where to go from here?

Hi all I've just replaced the pcb in my Vent axia sentinel kinetic. Upon turning back on, after its start up screens, it says rooms too cold to run the fan. As far as I am aware this is shown if the rooms are 5deg or less, but the rooms are at least 11deg. It's definitely sub zero outside though. I'm wondering if I have the wiring correct. I know I know I should have take a picture before, but the wires are coloured coded... Not so sure on the board though. Am I right in thinking the group circled in yellow are all for yellow marked wires (extract) and green for green? Thanks

Oh, and read up on your local regs in relation to protecting against spread of fire. May complicate things and impact door spec on the other floors.

I'm in the middle of converting my attic having recently moved in and having had pretty much the same plans as yourself. My trusses were at 400mm centre having given no thought to roof windows, would have made life easier if I had at least looked up the standard widths and space a couple to suit. Get in double trusses too where they will be needed. Watch for min max height of the lower openings if they are to be escape windows and also the distance down the roof the the eves, think its 1700mm max. Check head room on landing at top of stairs if it's under the sloping ceiling. Where are the stairs going, make sure they are drawn up to ensure they fit etc. I had our sparks run a pair of wires up for a ring for sockets, and supply for lighting. MVHR ducts, rad pipes, smoke alarm wiring also all worth considering if you meed any of them.

Follow Russell Griffiths example and not mine. I should have done an air test at shell stage before boarding, and regretted not doing so. Got a few leaks sorted when we finnaly did the test, but there was still something going on behind a boarded service void that was by then no longer accessible. For screed to walls I tapped with pro clima content solido. Possibly overkill, but we definitely didn't get any leaks there.

Does anyone have the exact definitions of these classes?

And just found out that keylite centre pivot ones are class 2.

Thanks for the replies. I've just found out that the top hung Keylites are only class 3 for airtightness. Don't know how good or bad that is? I got 0.92 for the whole house so don't want comprise on that. Apparently Velux are class 4 for the equivalent product, but are more expensive.