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Everything posted by Nickfromwales
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Dot and dab versus 2 coat plaster on block walls
Nickfromwales replied to Caroline's topic in Plastering & Rendering
Because the Velox system is shart and you just can't make a straight enough wall with it (also it's woodcrete so no 'webs' ). -
I think you need to get a decent 230v supply over there first as last tbh. Leave 5m of slack at the house end, coiled up at your then TBS, and uncoil to move it to the room it'll reside in for eternity as the build progresses. That's just too long / adverse a run to be taking extension leads etc back/forth.
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Cold water feed passing under new concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to maznaz's topic in General Plumbing
Can't see why not as long as the bends you form are long-radius. -
Cold water feed passing under new concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to maznaz's topic in General Plumbing
I would. That pipe is designed to be directly buried forever and is pretty bombproof. If it is off a T after the primary stopcock it is no longer 'technically' a rising cold mains, it's just a spur, so no need to do the stopcock and non return valve etc all over again. -
What's the case for not getting an ASHP?
Nickfromwales replied to kentar's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Oil ones blast the DHW out. Way better than gas equivalent. As you have oil on site, maybe better to pick the battles accordingly to see if you can cope on their offering for a single supply. -
Dot and dab versus 2 coat plaster on block walls
Nickfromwales replied to Caroline's topic in Plastering & Rendering
Did this over Velox ICF and got 0.66 ACH (as-built). Would have been more like 0.4-something if the doors and windows didn't leak so much..... -
Dot and dab versus 2 coat plaster on block walls
Nickfromwales replied to Caroline's topic in Plastering & Rendering
Myself, probably over-opinionated. Just seen D&D done excellently with great results enough times to be willing to defend it. And if @nod will use this in his own house and his clients 7 figure builds, then it defo isn't any form of compromise; other than, as you say, losing 15mm of GIA per wall. -
Dot and dab versus 2 coat plaster on block walls
Nickfromwales replied to Caroline's topic in Plastering & Rendering
I grew up around this, and would recommend this in a heartbeat. Just........get someone good. -
Dot and dab versus 2 coat plaster on block walls
Nickfromwales replied to Caroline's topic in Plastering & Rendering
Utter, indiscriminate, tosh. -
Dot and dab versus 2 coat plaster on block walls
Nickfromwales replied to Caroline's topic in Plastering & Rendering
Ye' cannea change the laws of physics, Jim. You clearly have near zero real-life experience on sites / projects that have had either / or. It is my own, isolated, opinion, that you have no clue what you are talking about. Myself and @nod have done many homes where quality, integrity, and "best effort" are at the forefront of everything we do. It's a bit of a piss-you-off to hear you dismiss this in a few sentences, to be honest. 30mm smaller? How thick do you think scratch-coat and skim is?? 5mm? -
It's just you then. The water-lords have clearly decided that you should live a life of eternal H2O-based hell and damnation. There is no amount of PTFE tape that can save you, I'm afraid.
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Same I use on almost every clients project, but from the Xcite range at City Electrical. Just found them to be more robust, not just the fittings and connectors, but also in terms of where I can go downstream for replacement / warranty / service etc. When we've done more sizeable and 'prestigious' projects I have always invited the client to go and buy 6 or more 'spares' so they can change a light out here and there over the next decade without fear of differing colour temperature and dispersion etc.
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I drill a hole with a 16mm hole saw at an angle, very slowly and carefully, slot one of those in, and let the other one flick back as intended.
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I am always a mile and a half ahead of all this. Nothing worse than getting to the plastered and painted phase and realising feck all works for the lighting layout / install. Do you have a pic of a hole you've cut out so I can understand the problem and suggest a solution?
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I've used them for decades, but admittedly not for turning on/off a supply for an outside tap. @John Carroll, how many times do you turn this on/off? Seasonally? With a Frosti tap you don't need to drain or shut off for winter. Cracking little gadgets. One of it's cheaper relatives here LINK
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Close the eaves externally and blow it full of cellulose? That'll get into every nook and cranny.
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Getting there, and time to sell up
Nickfromwales commented on BotusBuild's blog entry in South East Cornwall Low Energy build
I'm saying nothing, that's half a pint down here lol. -
What's the case for not getting an ASHP?
Nickfromwales replied to kentar's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Oil combi? -
Cold water feed passing under new concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to maznaz's topic in General Plumbing
You're not allowed to use anything other than the rated MDPE (blue) water pipe, which is 20 / 25 / 32mm for a rising cold mains. 22mm would give a lot of restriction most likely too. Is this a mains or a T off the mains? https://www.toolstation.com/mdpe-pipe/p31388?store=W8&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17808462181&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcU0T7r6bZ8njV1OqqMbxcGaz&gclid=CjwKCAjwk7DFBhBAEiwAeYbJsYqd05h9aKi4J4x3GAK2rKrNEyPpEW_WvIQhJtcylKLpeYwK9yopIRoCqMMQAvD_BwE -
Cold water feed passing under new concrete slab
Nickfromwales replied to maznaz's topic in General Plumbing
You want the cold mains in the ground, ideally, so you get cold water to draw off for drinking etc. If there’s a chance the pipe would routinely sit over 20°c then legionella is a concern. That’s why pipes are required to be buried low, > 600mm, not just to stop them being damaged. Where the sub base is it may still have sharp stone, so duct it and pull the pipe through afterwards afaic.
