Nickfromwales

To do this properly, the idiot you called out should have purged every loop with cold mains water (to blast the air out). The problem you face is, the pump will move water through the UFH pipes at a snail pace, so if all the loops are open you can divide the pump power by the number of loops. You need 100% of the pump on each loop individually to stand a chance, hence my advice. Best I can offer at 00:25, but I’ve got 4 kids and I don’t want to see you or them freezing your rear ends off. Go see the ‘technician’ that called out to ‘help’ and kick him in the testicles. Twice. As much use as a kickstart on a submarine.

Each loop needs to be on for 20 mins to bleed itself, this assumes the automatic air vent is open. You start with all other loops off, actuators all removed, and then bleed 1 loop at a time.

So, I think you are now airlocked throughout. Quick hack; take every actuator off except loop 1 (you choose), and then run the system. Wait for 20 mins to bleed out the trapped air, then open loop 2, and so on. Most advice I can give you tonight I'm afraid. Genius. Useless w8nker I hope you've not paid for this disservice?!?

If you're going for a quality result, then "why have cotton when you can have silk"? Down to price I guess, so maybe mix & match at the openings for the best overall result (when factoring in a sanity check).

I dislike the porosity of the thermalite block, so it wouldn't be my choice vs Marmox (which has a miniscule value for porosity in comparison). A 'wet' ("atmospherically moist") thermalite block will bridge cold significantly more by comparison.

If you are suggesting a retro-fit of a RWH system, then I'd bet my left nut that over the next 20 years, the cost of install / maintenance / pump replacement et-al would actually be a very different figure.....

So is this 9" wall brick with no cavity? I expect so. What you have here, sir, is "penetrating" damp. Find the epicentre of each problem area and get the drill out. This will get messy and worse, before it gets better. This isn't a rising damp problem, for sure, just rainwater finding its way down through the old mortar perps and into the interior surface of the wall, or, is the same thing you see with older walls that have knackered, corroded cavity wall ties that are then bridging the damp across them; you can almost find the fault to the nearest 100mm.

🤣

Mothers milk

If it doesn't, neither of us will wake from our deep sleep tonight, but if possible the two should overlap Will any of this actually matter(?), remains to ever be documented and evidenced in honesty. For the sake of the polar bears, fit the 100mm is my 2 cents.

Let this follicley challenged chap explain.... Random grab off the interwebnetiness

The question is, how thick is the screed / constructional slab that sits atop the 180mm PIR? And are the two finished levels matched or are the thresholds slightly raised? That will likely invoke a necessity to install the 100mm, eg so there is an overlap of the Marmox where it meets the PIR (unless my Brewdog Wingman has taken over control of my thoughts).

2021 iirc. I'm not sure what they do with these things nowadays, but I really can't see the benefit of a split unless you need very hot water eg to run existing rads etc.

Yup, if dry screed, nope if liquid.

Found my son in his attic room, wrapped up in a quilt in front of his PC, with the A/C set to 16° ffs…..🤦‍♂️

You need to keep a handle on that, as I’ve all too often seen architects setting fire to my clients money at a terrifying rate of knots. One such architect I had to babysit all the way through from foundation to airtightness, and I was only there for the M&E!! I’d have some conversations about this to keep it in check, as you can have your dream home without a nightmare budget. Plenty of good advice on here.

Is this any help? https://national.homebuildingshow.co.uk/exhibitor-list?_gl=1*nluiv0*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAiAkc28BhB0EiwAM001TQJ8Ytd6ErRY7hplY613HTsR6ei1teruNiXdE05ma7VjOZLoZ0fn1BoCxNYQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAAD-0KvykclfbMk73XWoN-FvOZJJdl

+ 1

Each piece of glass (referred to in the trade as a unit) can be swapped out in an hour. It’s a dead easy job. Random online grab for a cost calculator. https://sealedunitsonline.co.uk/regular/default_mob.aspx?gclid=cjwkcaiakc28bhb0eiwam001tbuisaorwfyxwzcam8f2frf9yhkbhgbvx51ngwlqrmtnuol16et9vbocdwsqavd_bwe Should be a couple of £hundred supply and fit by a local company.

🤣. 💵🔥👏 💨

Hi and welcome. Sounds like a plan! Great you got permission to do these as replacement dwellings as now you’ll enjoy zero rate VAT Have you built before or are you complete newbies? Please ask loads of (some say stupid) questions as I doubt there actually are any stupid questions with an undertaking such a house build (let alone two ).

One I visited was just beyond what I’d accept in my house, but was in their basement. When firing up from cold it was ‘not quiet’, a bit like a washing machine shivering into life then starting a spin cycle is the best way I can describe it. Lots of buzzing, whirring, and vibrations etc, a Daikin iirc.

What he said.

Hi. Firstly, you’ve left the address on public view, do you want to upload anonymised versions instead? Secondly, are you making the property airtight and are testing it with an aim to get a target result? Eg <1 ACH.

Our opinions on advice to bypass the thermostat on a domestic electric heater are “dissimilar”. ☺️