Nickfromwales

Welcome aboard. There’s a mountain of info on here, so get looking! Feel free to add to existing threads, no matter how old they are, and ask lots of questions! For now, what are your aims / goals / standards currently set out at? Airtight with MVHR, or just a cosmetic makeover? R,N.

I think it’s a zero issue tbh. What water, if any amount, that gets in there will just drop into the cavity and find its way south. Good to see they came to put this right, as some just won’t.

Erm, get them to pay for it whilst you perpetuate their TV show?

I’m in complete agreement. Don’t cave in to the nay-sayers, they can have what they want in their build, you have what you want in yours. Id have UFH under my bbq patio if I’d have thought about it soon enough lol.

Up to £10k with that mechanism yes?

If I had the chance UFH would be 100% going in my garage / place to hide away and tinker. Defo on the hitlist if I ever build, eventually, maybe, possibly.

My wife says different lol.

Never bet beer, because if you do, in 25 minutes time, you’ll have a string of pics of me, laying on my back, changing the diverter valve by touch alone. And yes. We’re saying the same thing. I am a fan of putting all that stuff up in the attic though, if it means life can become more practical below it. Not an A for efficiency, but some are happy to trade that for living space, which I’d take every day of the week.

erm.................?

What’s the immersion set temp?

Zimlet are popular, and tbh most mainstream names prob just stick their mark on these anyways. Once you sort the expansion, I’d say just double it, you’ll be able to fit the same T&PRV (Reliance is industry standard) and the issue will go away.

Boiler is fine up there, as long as all pipework lagged and a frost stat is installed (or OEM). It’s better inside the heated envelope, all of this is, but if you want/need space and are happy to compromise then “up it goes”. A fixed ladder, fixed flooring and lighting is required for access and maintenance etc.

The other thing to remember is, that if air can’t travel through this ‘room’ then the door can just be insulated and ‘draught-proof’ as best as you can get, with no need for it to be airtight (nor will you find one). You’ll find that you can just use a small fan heater which will keep it super comfortable; my less than excellently draught proofed man-shed is fine without any insulation, with 2x 1kw fan heaters if one won’t cut it, but this will be bucketloads better. Just have a draught excluder type doo-dah on the bottom of the door, and have that seal to the ground as best as you can.

👆👌

If it’s them that invoiced, then it’s them you will form the claim against. Their insurers will investigate, and then pursue the 3rd party subby to recover the losses from their insurers. They are the ones who took the money, so they are the ones responsible, entirely. Tossers. Time to get a claim together, and speak to your own insurers to see how to proceed.

That decision is yours

One big one obvs if you have space.

I’d double the amount of volume, by adding to it with a second vessel plumbed in in parallel. That’ll give you ample headroom for immersion higher temp top ups, as tbh you don’t want to lose out on those really. TBH x2, I’d just install 2 new matching units and draw a line under it, in case the existing has become fractured.

Give it a dozen cracks open, and slammed shut. See if that clears any debris which is what is usually the issue. Give that a whizz and report back. Immersion very likely the culprit, or not enough expansion volume. Do you have an HRC circuit on the DHW?

Parapet looks better than an upstand?! And far more robust for directing runoff, also hides the slope. Is this really a bank breaker? Not a lot of insulation here, and if I was going to pay to install poor insulation or the same labour / time to fit much better insulation…..🤔

I’m on my way.

Just install a 22mm gate valve across the flow and return for these rads and open it 1 revolution, test, and then go 1/4 revolution open and test again until happy.

Sorry to interrupt. Where do I go to collect my pie, exactly?

If anyone wants the details of a fantastic mobile fab / welder who travels nationwide, pm me. Been a great few days with this chap and he’s proper old school (let’s get it done) with 35+ years on the stick.

Defo 120x 50mm steel box section uprights into a 5” ‘stud’ wall, with same for header and footer, if you want longer treads and for it to be bombproof. Glulam or 3” trimmer for head of stairs can be swapped out for a steel, if it isn’t already spec’d in steel for eg, to allow this to all be welded / mechanically connected so the best result of all. We’ve had an excellent steel fabricator and welder on site this week sorting a knackered roof out, and the results are fantastic and quite cheap for what you get. Day rates for a welder vs chippy aren’t wildly far apart (max £100 a day difference) and they get a lot done quite quickly by getting stuff cut and made up off site, then it’s just install / clamp / weld / bingo bango. Steel is not super expensive, so worth finding out what it would cost to do this in metal afaic, and then know you never need to worry / revisit ever again. Steel opens up an entire new world of possibilities, where’s other materials such as wood have huge limitations; a lot of wood finished stairs need metal spines anyways.