Nickfromwales

I’ve done this umpteen times, with all kinds of services; matters not a single jot what service(s) it is / are . For the split AC on my current clients build I simply used offcuts of 92mm MVHR duct as the sleeves, taped these to the interior AT layer, fed the pipes and cables through, and then the duct will get pumped full of Illbruck FM330 AT foam to complete; the foam seals for AT but is also, in a nutshell, liquid PIR insulation to boot. Condensate cannot be terminated internally I assume? If not, just send that through the same oversized duct. Externally I just use a mastic such as CT1, or similar NON silicone sealant, and bond the duct to the external medivent board, leaving a load of it as excess. Then push the outer membrane into the mastic, smooth with a tool, then go over the lot again until mummified. I’m home today but back on site tomorrow, so I’ll post some pics for you. Very easy to do, so don’t be intimidated by this at all

If ‘drinking water’ means you have unregulated cold mains going to one side of a mixing body of the kitchen sink tap? You need to be specific here as the tap is the crux; you can buy a mixer tap which is good for cold on mains and hot on gravity, where the two waterways are entirely separate until they come out of the spout (typically a coaxial outlet where hot is in the centre and cold is a ring around that). You otherwise will (most likely) have a true mixer body tap, where these meet and mix before entering the spout, with that then being the blended ‘sum’ of x amount of hot and x amount of cold ‘seeing’ each other when the flow is open. The issue with the latter is that higher pressure cold mains can actually partially push back down the hot line which is called “reverse pressurisation”. That causes EV’s to pop, PRV’s to open and let by (discharge out of tun-dish at D1 off the UVC) and more. So, any mixer body outlets should be fed off a balanced supply, after the control group, so these possible conflicts cannot occur. If it’s a new install this should all be followed religiously, or if it’s a retro fit you can do some ‘work arounds’; for eg you’d fit a single check non return valve on the hot outlet of the UVC (making sure the EV’s are on the protected side, and an additional SC would be put on the kitchen sink hot supply as a failsafe. If it’s just the kitchen cold then err on the side of caution and avoid that being before the control group.

Great outcome, and thanks for the update.

As above. 👆. It’s for the covering of one’s arse, vs staring blankly back and saying “what are RAMS?” if or when the shit hits the fan.

You need to cover your arse if you want to pretend to be a PC.

You ask all bonafide contractors for their RAMS too, before they step foot on site, and you also do inductions (regardless of how “busy” you are). And make the site a safe and organised place to be. Allow a lot of time clearing up, sweeping (M-class vacuum needs to be on site as you’re not supposed to kick up dust these days), festoon lighting, don’t have sharp or ‘stabby’ things poking out of ground (rebar protruding needs to be bent back over itself or a mushroom cap put on it), no unmarked or open pits or trenches or barrier around them, list goes on but not rocket science. Take risks with your own life all you like, they can’t jail you for that, but when you invite any 3rd party there then the onus is on you to make them ‘not expire’ ahead of their predetermined departure from this life.

Yup, which means ‘don’t add to the problem’

Plus turns, bends, restrictions of joints and inserts, and more The pipe alone isn’t representative of ‘real life’ (in my direct experiences).

The flow rate is much lower than 15mm, which is fine for low lpm flow rate outlets, however, I have done this a couple of times and then noticed the cisterns take around twice as long to refill. Not a problem in say a cloak WC, I actually plumbed one like this early on this week, but if you wake up to use an ensuite and flush the loo, you don’t want the torture of waiting an age for the sound of it filling to stop. I stay in a lot of hotels and the one I’m in atm has a gravity CWS that fills the WC’s. Takes bloody ‘forever’ for it to shut up so my brain can tune back out. I’d recommend sticking with 15mm feeds to all WC’s or accept the above bug.

The worst he can say is “no”, plus it would be a convenient opportunity to mention that you’re looking to build over it “like you have”. Then ask “did it all go well when you reached out to ST?”. Etc. Then let them do the talking.

Are you bonding the floor down? If so, grinding off the laitence is mandatory, if floating then it’s unnecessary. Nothing will stick to laitence, not even liquid DPM, nor acrylic primer, nor tile adhesive, nothing, nil and nada.

That’s what I use, but you need to have a straight cut and then file the face flat afterwards. Rubber seals are quite forgiving tbh.

Cut them down to length? That’s what I have had to do on some previous retrofits.

You can just buy plastic / nylon ‘feet’ with pins on the back which tap into the wood. Over engineered with dowels there! These kind of things are available:

Eh? Vs dynamic loading of vehicular traffic. An SE would have asked what items / weight / footprint / means of mechanical fixing or freestanding, and more, to consider that an issue.