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They recommend you keep the total TOG value to around 2.0 I think. You might get away with a bit more but how much is hard to say. There are special low TOG underlays that allow more to be allocated to the carpet. Note that some carpets are available in two versions foam or Hessian backed. The small print in some contracts allows the shop to choose which they supply. Hessian has lower TOG but a harder feel. Go visit some carpet shops and ask about TOG values. If you get blank looks ask for another staff member or go elsewhere. Try out samples to see if the carpet and underlay with a low TOG are ok underfoot. Then you can decide if you need thicker.

I've used VP400 on a project and its quite robust. It was exposed for a few months and survived ok.

Use a vapour permeable "felt"/membrane before battens and I think you are ok. Check the makers instructions and show to Building Control before you install. Remember the membrane must still drape so a 25mm unventilated void maybe required. This is to stop water pooling above the battens.

Would it be possible to jack up the joists and put packing (or just DPC) under the ends?

Does sound odd. On a previous house I found a set up that had one side of a light connected to live. The other side was connected to a switch that supplied the light with either live or neutral. So when the light was off BOTH sides of the lamp were live.

Try the bulb in another fitting? Have you checked the configuration switch settings? I would note the default settings and then try the last example (works night and day). Try temporarily hooking up a simple pendant to check the house wiring.

If you buy that type get a few spares. If they are any good they do last a fair time but better safe than sorry.

I rented a "power scythe" to deal with the vegetation but it sounds like you might need a digger with a blade on the front. Got any friendly local farmers? They could plough it up and reseed it for you. Otherwise get quotes from grass or landscaping companies.

It's hard to know if a planning consultant is going to be worth it or not. In my case it was but we had an an unusual situation. Our Architect wasn't a very dynamic person and didn't go out of his way to challenge the planners. The planning consultant was better at that.

Sorry if you know this but.. If the CIL is a thing in your area you normally have to formally claim any exemption on specific forms at the right stage or you can lose it with no way to get it back.

Can you just swap the heads on the manifold or are the wires too short? Perhaps that messes up labeling?

Past experience. LED themselves are pretty reliable. Drivers on the other hand tend to be crammed into a little box with minimal cooling. Some types of capacitor are particularly sensitive to temperature with their expected life halving by every 10C rise above about 40C.

It's unlikely to be the LED boards themselves unless they have more electronics on them we can't see.. More likely the driver module or capacitors in it.

Ok so the issue is where the higher garage founds meets the lower house. The ground must slope down to the house in this area so you also need to think about drainage and the visuals. You don't want to be looking at exposed concrete. I would expect a standard stepped foundation a few feet along the garage wall away from the house depending on how the ground rises. Some engineered bricks might be needed where partly burried? Check ground levels carefully to avoid the wall of the house accidentally becoming a retaining wall. I agree an SE needed to design how the garage floor slab abuts the house.

Most bathrooms need some sort of storage. One option is to build storage against a wall and run the waste in the bottom.

Yes think I'm out of date.

I assume they aren't talking about a Building Control Completion certificate but some sort of Completion Certificate for Council tax purposes only? I wonder if the latter could trigger the 3 month window for VAT reclaims. In my case (at a different council) they just sent me a letter stating they are assuming I will be complete on some date. I disagreed and told them it will be complete on a different date a few months later and they accepted it.

Contact companies that make metal or concrete garages and have them confirm theirs meets the regs. Perhaps pay for pre application advice from the planners and send them brochure images? The regs also include the foundation slab suitability for the ground conditions so you may need to dig a hole to check how thick the slab is? Think about how it will be sealed to the slab to stop water running in under? Ditto at the doors?

Not me but Google AI said.. "The specific RS485 communication protocol used by Acrimo for their motorized products is generally a proprietary protocol and is not publicly published or standardized"

Not sure about grab rails but tile and stone over 12mm Hardiebacker board seems to hold things like soap dishes and shower head rails well without needing to find studs. I think 12mm of anything might be marginal for grab rails? Can you drill through into the brick?

I can't quite visualise what you are building but check building regs. They require quite a deep (thick) "constructional hearth" if the fire pit/basket/chamber is capable of raising the temperature of the hearth over 100C. For sealing joints perhaps fire cement? Not sure what colours it comes in but try screwfix/toolstation web sites.

Id probably glue it in place.

Lots of wind farms in East Anglia. Very few south of London.

I make my own extension cables when I can because commercial manufacturers are under cost pressures to use as skinny a wire as they can get away with.

If you feel like it you can always get one done and keep the results to yourself. But I wouldn't. Tell the Architect you will investigate and carry on.