AliG

All done, thanks @ProDave. Very easy job, hardest bit was clambering around in the loft.

OK, I have been up inside the roof of my extension, something I had not done ever as it did not have a normal hatch, instead the hatch was screwed and painted down. I am going to install the extra smoke detector tomorrow morning. I have the builders of my new house putting in a gable vent(after I check that it isn't there and I am not just missing it). I am assuming that the steps as built are fine and I just need a picture. I may or may not have to change the kitchen smoke detector to a heat detector but that is relatively simple. So looking at the original list of 9 items I have just two things outstanding, the others have been done or will be in the next few days. 1. The rain water pipe at the front of elevation has been duct through the garage. The rain water pipe requires to be waste quality and sealed joints. (Technical Standard 3.7) 9. Final drain test at rear of house failed on the 4 April 2014, no further test has been carried out since (08/04783/ERECT) 1. I have looked at the pipes and have a way of considering it to wastewater pipe, but I am going to speak to BC on Monday before I do anything. Firstly technical standard 3.7 applies to wastewater and this is a surface water pipe. Secondly the pipe is really well sealed, it would actually be hard to dismantle and I think more likely to create leaks than improve them. Anyway, I will see what they say. 9. I really don't understand this, I have attached a plan of the conservatory here. They added round a 2m extension to the existing rainwater pipes at each side of the conservatory. I spoke to a builder and he didn't even know what you could test. The best we could come up with was put a balloon down the pipes and test the new bit but this is just a small run of pipe barely worth testing.

I will spread it around a bit better when I am up there with the cables tomorrow. It''s not too bad, just 3 or 4 places where it looks like someone probably moved it and didn't put it back leaving it stacked up enormously high in a few spots with none in the adjacent spot.

Thanks, nice to have one job I can do without paying someone, off to get one at Toolstation first thing. I have been up in the loft to find the cables. As ever there is tons of insulation spread about in a bizarrely haphazard way, some places about 600mm thick and some places with none.

I am having handleless in my new house, I usually major on practicality but the handles are such a pain to clean I reckoned handleless will be easier, we shall see. You can actually get a handleless dishwasher. Siemens make one that opens itself when it is done, it is called open door assist. You push it then it opens, I have only seeing in videos. http://www.cameokitchens.co.uk/product.php?xProd=23481 Our next door neighbour has had a new utility room fitted using Ikea units with quartz worktops. It looks very nice. I don't really see much difference between different companies' doors and carcasses. What makes a kitchen look glamorous/expensive tends to be the worktops, appliances and taps as well as little touches like LED lights. I think you could get a fairly standard kitchen from somewhere like Wren and then add these features.

Hi, In the efforts to the my completion certificates signed off I need to add a second smoke alarm to a games room that is over 60 square metres. I don't know why the builder didn't;t install it as shown on the plans. The room already has an Aico Ei141 which is interconnected to another Aico Ei141 downstairs. Looking at the Aico wiring diagram, figure 6 on pg 15 here, can I just connect an extra alarm by connecting it in parallel to the connector block on the base of the first Aico unit or am I missing something? https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/EI_Smoke/EI141RC_Instructions.pdf

The wording in the planning guidance is pretty cast iron. It's also pretty draconian. You have a couple of choices, you can take it to the planning committee and see what happens. You say that other houses have been developed of larger size, can you look at them on the local planning website and see how they managed to do it, maybe it was before Policy 22 came into effect, it looks like it was probably only late 09/early 10. If you fail at committee level you can also appeal. I am not sure how they would see what might be considered an unreasonable planning policy. I would guess that they go by it. It does seem that there is no limit on the size of extensions, is there a way to incorporate the existing building into a new larger building? It does look like they will give a PPS7 exclusion for a house of outstanding architectural merit, but I believe these are difficult and very expensive to achieve.

I knocked down around 220sq metres including garages and replaced with 504sq metres. Although there may be some reference in the planning guidance to replacement dwellings there is usually also some reference to acceptable coverage of a plot. In the conservation area I am building in the limit is considered to be 20% of the area for the building and 20% more for driveways patios etc. My house is 19.8% of the plot. In an urban area that is not a conservation area coverage can go much higher. It is a very good rule to show these figures in the block plan e.g 4000sq metres plot, 200sq metre ground floor so 5% coverage, but architects don't always do it. Unless of course the figures actually look bad then best not to mention them You can also take rough measurements of neighbouring houses to show what the prevailing plot coverage is in the area, you might get the outlines of them from the planning website. Although there are not really planning precedents you can point to whether or not your house is in keeping with the plot coverage in the surrounding area.

I believe the normal way to do it is wit a tarmac sub base. As it is so expensive I don't think it is worth skimping on the preparation as you don't want it starting to crack and fail in a few years. It is a bit of a mystery to me how it is classed as permeable, because I assume that rainwater permeates the stones and resin at the top then hits the tarmac and runs straight down it, maybe just the fact that the resin bound top layer slows down the water is enough to get it classed as a permeable surface. Key thing for me is no weeds and maintenance Our current block driveway constantly has weeds, has sagged under weight and also many of the block look in need of replacement after 14 years. Interestingly the road that my house is on is also built from block paving yet there are few weeds and it has held up much better, I don't know what the difference is. They were both laid by the same people. I am guessing the main road has a tarmac or concrete base under the blocks and this makes the difference.

I am planning resin bound, it gets good reviews, but as @Simplysimon implies it is expensive. You're probably looking at £100 a square metre give or take.

So looking at the picture, we attach one of the adaptors to the square rainwater pipe at each end. I am guessing the tails of the rainwater pipe might have to be replaced with longer pieces. Then at the left hand side two 90 degree bends which should take us to the wall above the garage door. At the right hand side another 90 degree bend and a straight pipe in between. My only slight concern is that it might be difficult to get the bend tight enough to the wall for the pipe not to end up floating in mid air. Now to figure out why I am being asked for a gable vent. The construction is warm roof, but there is an empty attic space between the roof and the room, would it need to be ventilated? My architect thought this was very odd. Now I think about it, the building is one and there quarter storeys, I wonder if the drawings are showing warm roof, but in fact that is only as far as the ceiling slopes, then it becomes a cold attic above the flat roof that needs to be ventilated. I have never been up there, I will have to go look at the weekend. This is when working in London is a real pain.

I got my wife to send a picture. I thought that maybe I could buy replacement downpipes that had rubber seals but they don't seem to exist. I think I can use one of these, a 68mm square rainwater to 110mm soil pipe adaptor at each end and then run 110mm soil pipe through the garage. This would give rubber seals within the garage. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-rainwater-adaptor-110mm/38593?kpid=38593&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIveO42Pv61gIVg7vtCh1POwsmEAQYBSABEgI0VvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPTd7uP7-tYCFWWr7QodRpADEg#product_additional_details_container

There are joints, they are glued together, not with rubber seals, it might be reasonably easy to change the part of the pipe inside for a sealed one if necessary. You make a fair point that sewer gas could come back up the pipe, my argument was that as the top of the pipe is open to the outside where it attaches to the gutter then this is the path of least resistance so it would seem unlikely that gas would leak into the garage. I spoke to the architect and builder of my new house who had never come across this issue, but I will put your point back to them as it makes sense.

Thanks @Temp that is a good point, but as far as my reading of technical standard 3.7 goes it is only for wastewater pipes and this is a rain water pipe which is what I will put back to them. If I have to the pipes can be changed but it seems pointless. Thinking about it surely a rainwater pipe effectively vents to the outside anyway even if it passes through the house, but I can see this argument. It is not a combined system, but it does eventually enter the sewer system. I have already arranged a builder to come and do a new pressure test, my hope is it was just a bad test. I also called the people who built my conservatory. They could not find records of the test but are going to try and find out why it failed and sound like if it needs fixed they will try to do so. I don't know how much I can push back on BC, some if these issues seem an extreme reading of the rules and notably that it is almost impossible to get anyone on the phone to speak to them.

Thanks, the first floor has accessible toilets, however the games room above the garage is accessed through a different stair so is its own floor. However, there was no requirement as far as I can see for it to have a WC at all. I just thought it would be handy up there. According to the technical standards 3.12.3 "A dwelling should have at least 1 accessible WC, or waterless closet, and wash hand basin and at least 1 accessible shower or bath. These sanitary facilities should be located on the principal living level of a dwelling and be of a size and form that allows unassisted use, in privacy, by almost any occupant. This should include use by a person with mobility impairment or who uses a wheelchair, albeit with limited manoeuvring space within the sanitary accommodation. An additional accessible toilet may be needed on the entrance level of a dwelling where this is not also the principal living level (see clause 4.2.10)." The house has 6 WCs, this is the only one that has a less than 800mm door. It seems to me to it would be an odd reading of the rules to insist that it too was over 800mm wide. Luckily it is a stud wall so it can be changed, but it seems ridiculous if they insist on this.

Got the door fire certificate, working my way down the list.

I finally got a reply with a list of what needs done. Apparently my BC inspector is off sick but no one told me. Here is the list. Any help is most welcome. 1. The rain water pipe at the front of elevation has been duct through the garage. The rain water pipe requires to be waste quality and sealed joints. (Technical Standard 3.7) 2. Steps at garage as not as per the approved plans, please clarify the construction and it should be a permanent fixture. 3. Fire test certificate for the garage door. Technical Standards 2.2.4 requesting a minimum 30 minutes fire resistant rating to garage door) 4. The kitchen requires to be provided with a heat detector as indicated on approved warrant 12/00160/ALT. Heat detector to be interconnected with other detectors (smoke) if in place. 5. Provide a photograph of the stone gable vent. (08/02003/EXT) 6. Provide photographs as discussed. Eaves and ridge vents to all roof areas, and insulation to the garage wall. (08/02003/EXT) 7. Second smoke detector to be fitted in games room. (Under Technical Standard 2.11 smoke detectors are required to be a certain distance apart and also shown on approved plans (08/02003/EXT) 8. Door to toilet on the first floor is less than 800mm. (08/02003/EXT) 9. Final drain test at rear of house failed on the 4 April 2014, no further test has been carried out since (08/04783/ERECT) I am going to try and speak to the person who sent it who is the manager of the inspector who came out, but have a few questions. 1. There is a down pipe that goes through the garage. I don't understand the reference to Technical standard 3.7 as this is for wastewater pipes. I didn't think that a rainwater pipe was a wastewater pipe. If you read the standard it says that it applies when they go into a wastewater system but why would it need to be sealed like a wastewater pipe as it is just rainwater. 2. They could see the steps, this is just stupid. they are built from blockwork, concrete and concrete slabs and obviously not temporary. 3. The door has intumescent seals and a closer on it, it is clearly a fire door. 4. Fair enough 5. The approved plans had a stone gable vent on them, it's not there, I don;t know why not. I don't see why it would be needed. 6. Done and provided 7. I am checking this rule, I can fit another one if necessary. 8. I am not sure why this is an issue, it is on the first floor. 9. Annoyed, no one told me.

Thanks @Nickfromwales I am looking into this. It seems like these only repeat the network that you are on. I am trying to figure out if there is a way to repeat all networks so that guests phones still work. It may be that the signal is strong enough for phone calls but not internet. If that is the case it is less of a problem as there will be wifi repeaters around the house. The render is going onto wire mesh which will probably make it even worse, plus not all the insulated plasterboard is on the external walls yet. I will see how it is once all that is done, probably not good.

I think I put them up at sone point, but they might be better here. There has been one change not shown which is the moving of the master en suite and dressing room. Ground Floor.pdf First Floor.pdf Second Floor.pdf

Just a couple of pics for an update, I forgot to take more. The builders were working on Saturday so I was able to go see them without taking a day off work. Things are really coming along, we complete on our current house on December 8th, assuming that BC gives me the completion certificates I mentioned in another post. Finally getting some render on. With that and all the windows it will soon look like a finished house. Of course now that all the windows are in and with Celotex insulation in the walls the phone signal has all but disappeared inside the house.

That's a lovely tidy job you have done there

Welcome. These are my favourite threads on Buildhub. I wish had put my plans up before I started, might have saved me some money and mistakes. Most points already mentioned. 1. Garage The door appears to be 2m wide, many cars will struggle to get through this. 2.5m is better. 3m width for the garage itself is tight but doable. But you won't be able to swing a 8-900mm door past the car as you will have around 5-600mm on each side depending on the width of the car. You could move the door to be between the utility and the garage. Ideally it would be longer, but see below for my idea re WC and cupboards. If you could stick it further out the front that would help, but I am guessing this is restricted. 2. Island We have an island that is 1.1m away from the hob. When the dishwasher is open it is hard to get past. I have made the island 1.6m away from the cabinets in the new place. I would make the island shorter at the end where the hob is shown. Is the hob meant to be shown so that you would stand on the end, it is a slightly unusual layout. Assuming that the cabinets are along both side then you won't have a drawer or cupboard under the hob for pots and utensils. I would move it round to the long side so that you are facing the table when standing at it. If one of the two sinks is a prep sink I would move it onto the island. Then you can stand and make stuff between the hob and sink. You can also dust crumbs from the hob into the sink. 3. Kitchen There is a lot of dead space in the middle, as mentioned you could lose the extra door. I would consider making the lounge shorter by at least 900mm(It would still be 6m long) and building a wall, then turning the table around and having a sitting area in the kitchen too. Then you will have much more public space and a quiet sitting room option also. The area outside the kitchen is roughly 20ft across, a lot of space for just a table. 4. Cupboards/WC There are no cupboards on the ground floor. You could put the WC where the utility sink is and then make the space under the stairs a cupboard. Then you won't have stairs encroaching on the WC. 1.8-2m is wide enough for a utility room. 5. Switch door to left as suggested so people are not looking at stairs. 5. Upstairs Can't seen any obvious issues on 1st floor. I would make master ensuite larger as you have lots of space and it will feel a lot nicer. You could have a bath and a walk in shower.

I think it would be OK. The sound regs are weird. I have to buy special sound proof glass for a fixed glass wall between rooms as it has to meet the same requirement as a wall. Yet, if it was a glass door it would not have to meet any regs as doors let loads of noise through the frames.

At what point do I escalate and start complaining to the BC inspector's manager? She came on 18th September and emailed me on 20th saying that she had to speak to someone when they were back from holiday. It will be 4 weeks on Monday. I have emailed twice and left one voice mail since then with no response. I don't want to wind these people up but equally, I originally applied for completion certificates in April and it is now October!

Thanks for the help. It seems that there is room to argue on the SVP. The house does have an SVP, but the extension is on a separate drain run into its own inspection chamber outside. I need to get them on the phone, which of course is nigh on impossible. If they want a heat detector, it should be easy enough to get the alarm people along to fit an Aico, I just need them to actually confirm if this is the case or not. The banister is I think pine. The spindles go into a base rail and then there are blocks hammered in in between them. There were a couple of nails in the bottom of each spindle. I simply went alone with a nail gun and put three pins in each side of each spindle and then added a few extra nails in between the spindles. Not the most elegant solution but it feels a lot firmer now, tbf it always felt loose.