hb1982

there is an acoustic benefit when using heavy rockwool insulation in pitch-roof construction.

first of all need to understand which noise you would like to reduce, the high pitch or the low humm or the vibration. Then pick a good quiet washing machine; run in night mode; good floor construction. Locally sound proof the surround of the washing machine Lastly good solid wall from top to bottom (ceiling void and floor void well sealed) with high density construction.

Have you asked them what material is used in the heat exchanger core? Not sure how much it costs but you are buying: 1. no SAP rating 2. no leakage class tested 3. no summer by-pass damper 4. questionable condensate management (tray / fall / material) 5. single skin construction 6. no filter protect the heat exchanger

Remove air pollution from sources. If outdoor air is polluted, we install suitable air filter to remove pollutants before drawing air into the indoor space. If there is pollution sources within the house, we remove pollutants locally, e.g. fume from cooking and moisture from wet rooms. We only install air filter when there is a reason.

air from recirculation hood is only as good as the filters permitted. I believe premium brand products could perform better but you can never tell until you have the system purchased and installed (and no turning back).

that is like an highly insulated box. sounds like the cold could be from air infiltration or generally the room is not heated?

The delta T was based on 12C (30degC in UFH vs 18degC in non UFH) as you suggested in previous post. The BEV/ICE may not be a good example but that is not really the conversation here. As a home owner, there is no harm to go with better insulation as long as the decision is informed. £800 is cost difference on the insulation only. There will be extra due to extra digging and removal of earth subject to your site condition. Subject to your location, the carbon payback could be questionable as well. My original reply, to be honest, was trying to answer the OP question, i.e. if 75mm floor insulation is sufficient. My answer was/is yes from the building regulation perspective. Solid slab U-Value calculation is different from suspended floor calculation. If the P/A ratio is right, 75mm PIR in the said sbuil-up could meet the building regulation requirements.

For a 50sqm area, the 0.07W/m2K difference is going to give you around 40W extra heat losses theoretically. For a ground slab, it could be less or more subject to the ground temperature fluctuation. We may all have different perspectives on this. From a builder perspective, 75mm PIR in a 0.4 P/A ratio scenario, it meets the building regulation and he saves £800 on insulation material and more on avoiding extra digging / grab lorries / time. From a homeowner perspective, it will take a lot of heating hours to payback that £800 + £ xxxx costs. It is a similar conversation like if electric cars are more eco-green considered that huge amount of lithium is required to be dug from ground.

The floor buildup suggested is a solid concrete slab on ground (not suspended) in a house extension. If you check out the Kingspan Insulation Calculator 75mm Insulation (PIR) - 0.40 P/A ratio (e.g. 6m extension for a 8m wide room), the resultant U-Value is 0.17W/m2K. For 150mm insulation, the result is 0.10 W/m2K, that what I consider as an overkill (at least from the builders perspective) https://www.uvalue-calculator.co.uk/calculator/floors/ground floor/solid concrete - insulation below screed/0.4/75/

probably same principle of using breathable membrane in suspended floor insulation application (rather than just chicken wire), to avoid wind washing.

U-Value for floor, in solid slab on grade, is subject to the perimeter to area ratio. 150mm in general is an overkill. Regards

if the filter is out of air stream (min. pressure drop) and the air velocity within the chamber can be achieved (to meet the UV filter spec), there is no reason not. The question is why you want a UV filter in your MVHR? We, human being, should be exposed to some degree of germs/bacteria/virus in air and water to maintain our immune system. super clean air and water is going to do more harm than good in the long term unless you have other medical reason.

Heating Typical domestic installation would use electric heater with integrated control, to maintain off-coil temperature at 3 to 5 degC. In your case, with hot water source, you can: 1. Buy the right heater (I supposed you can buy a 150mm / 200mm dia. circular heater easily online), plenty of option on the consumer market 2. Connect to the brine circuit 3.A simple solution is to use a TRV (Thermostatic Radiator Valve) with remote temperature probe. Put the probe in the off-coil position and to turn the set-point to minimum (may be 10 degC)? Otherwise, you may need to install a proper valve with actuator linked with a PI (Proportional- Integral) controller Cooling More complicated. You cannot use a heating coil for cooling. I would install a dedicated cooling coil in this instance to make your control and piping easier. For control, you will need a PI controller with duct temperature sensor. Alternatively, you can get hold with a 4-pipe FCU (Fan Coil Unit) controller, you can use a single controller to control both heating and cooling.

The one from Victorian could be the same as those on ebay at half the price. (not here to promote the use of unbranded product) Grohe / Crosswater / Travistock are all more expensive but you have the comfort of quality and less likely require repair / replacement in the future. A lot of job lot discount on ebay to be honest. Trade can get those products at like 40% of RRP.

Good quality plastic if installed properly should last as long as copper. When installing plastic: 1. Use as few fittings as possible. use cold form bend fitting where possible. 2. Support and clip pipe as per instruction, usually every 800 to 1000mm 3. Only use pipe and fittings from the same manufacturer 4. Remind to install one size bigger in plastic installation. e.g. 15mm copper is (I.D. 13.6mm); Plastic 15mm (nominal) - I.D. is 11.3mm. 5. Press fit is better than push fit but not usually available in domestic contractors 6. PEX pipe is far better than grey PB pipe.