Dillsue

?? Maybe I'm missing something but a faulty anything is limited to 13amp by the fuse in the plug which is way less than 2.5mm cable can carry. Any adjacent plug in solar is only offsetting what that faulty load would draw from the consumer unit but is again limited to 13amp by its plug? If plug in solar is limited to 800watt then it's hard to see a problem?? Unless....... If you plugged in multiple plug in solar units then you could have a problem if you also plug in multiple high loads, that's where the regulators might have a problem but thats the same problem Europe will already be dealing with??

Unless you want to join one of the export payment schemes AFAIK there's currently no requirement for MCS certification or testing for anything....products or installations??

The neutral needs to pass through an RCD/RCBO to monitor for earth leakage if there's an imbalance in current in the live and neutral. You don't have to break the neutral to do the monitoring although I think you can get double pole RCBOs in a single module width.

Not sure I'd want to hold the ac connection on any inverter with panels connected. I beleive the grid disconnect is via relays/contactors and I know the contacts do weld from time to time.

SEG is gov regulated so needs to be MCS installed. You'd need to notify your SEG payer if adding capacity. If you're on a Power Purchase Agreement such as Octopus Outgoing then that's between you and Octopus:) Be interesting to see how the likes of Octopus handle export from plug in solar??

From the government's Web site https://www.gov.uk/government/news/government-to-make-plug-in-solar-available-within-months "The government will work with the Energy Networks Association, DNOs and Ofgem to update the G98 distribution code and wiring regulations BS 7671 to allow UK households to connect <800W plug-in solar panels to domestic mains sockets, without the need for an electrician and with tailored safety standards" Not sure that will get sorted in time for IKEA to be flogging plug in units anytime soon??

If your house is connected to the grid and you plug a solar inverter into the house then the solar inverter is connected to the grid and will export anything the house doesn't use to the grid. There's a lower wattage limit of <800w where all of G98 requirements dont apply but likely any plug in generator would need to meet most of the G98 requirements. I'm not sure there's anything to stop you using plug in solar right now if it meets the grid standards. If the government are thinking of changing the rules on connecting small scale solar outside the current G98 rules then they'll likely need the buy in of the ENA/DNOs with changes to specs etc. Can't see that happening anytime soon??

Here's a roofing batten version. Old hollow concrete blocks set in the ground keep it all on the floor and have done for 3 winters so seem OK. Under £100 for batten, panel clamps and stainless screws.......already had the blocks, DPM and fencing wire for diagonal bracing

If you read the report that @DamonHD posted, and other sources, household batteries should be pretty near the bottom of the list of domestic risks to worry about and spend £££s mitigating.

That's likely to ammount to more than just a "few £" for what was shown to be a very low risk upthread. Would you do that for a tumble dryer or any other appliance, or a garaged ICE car all of which seem to pose a greater fire risk than a modern battery pack??

Reminds me of peeing around with fireworks as a kid and getting chased by ripraps, helicopters and aeroplanes!

Highlights suggest a very low risk from home battery systems so probably not something to be too concerned about but do your own risk assessment

AFAIK everything to do with battery location and fire protection are all recommendations and there's nothing mandatory. One thing you want to understand is if your insurer stipulates anything??

Might be easiest to suck it and see by bypassing the accumulator with the flow pipe and replacing the scondary pump with a straight section of pipe. Avoid sharp bends/elbows in the accumulator bypass!

No idea about how NG operate but I emailed the SPEN area engineer who got a junior engineer to reply and we had a verbal agreement in a couple of days to double our existing 3.68kw G98 limit. Submitting the G99 form was just to formalise things...and take some cash off me!

Stupid of me to assume the air inside the house was damp when you mentioned rusting stoves and wok. I should have realised that you might keep your stoves and wok in the garden......no wonder the stoves don't heat the house if they aren't in it. I'm done here. Adios

All those damp issues will almost certainly be due to you not heating the place adequately. When you breath, wash or the plants in your avatar respire, moisture goes into the air. If the surfaces in your house are cold the moisture will condense as water and you'll get all the issues you mention. Again that's physics. All of those issues will cost you so that cost needs to be set against the cost of paying extra to heat the house.

That's way lower than I though but still meaningless to @zoothornas a numeric value.

A hole in a wall or an open window or door is uninsulated, everything else has an insulation value even if its low. That's physics. Your stone walls likely have a better insulation value than early double glazed windows

I think that is a recurring theme

Someone posted a link above to the Vailant controller manual which tells you what the moon symbol means.

Flow temperature is the temperature of the water coming out of the heat pump/boiler. The "medium number setting" would be whatever temperature your system was designed to run at...did you get any paperwork when the original heat pump was put in? If you want the best efficiency you want the flow temp to be as low as possible as that is where heat pumps are most efficient. If you run low temperatures you need bigger radiators to compensate for the lower temperature. In a high heat loss house like yours you'd need some pretty big rads to be able to run the heat pump at low temperatures for best efficiency. The size of rads question has been touched on earlier in the thread!

Isn't the Vaillant stat embedded in the controller which zoot is thinking of relocating.....already within the house?? Our LG is set up seemingly the same with the LG controller having a built in stat and a third party stat is wired to the outdoor unit. Isn't that similar to lots of HPs??

Im sure the easiest way forward for zoot is to relocate the existing stat/controller.....all terminals are know and visible to zoot so easy to replicate with a longer piece of cable. More importantly it's all at ELV!!!! @zoothornthe stat/controller wants to be located somewhere that is representative of the house temperature. From what you've said that wants to be in your living area. If you're going to be turning off the heating upstairs then that's not the place for it, nor is the kitchen, bathroom, workshop, porch or outside! Keep it away from your woodburner and radiators.

Just reread what you asked and realised that you're talking about the HW temp in your HW tank?? In that case the answer is no. The heat pump runs at different temperatures when it's heating the HW tank and when it's heating the radiators. The change in temperature is done automatically but you can set the time and temperature for both the HW and central heating.