epsilonGreedy

My planning permission requires installation of 4 m3 of underground roof rainwater storage as part of a SUDS runoff attenuation design. The overflow from this underground storage runs off to another open amenity pond which then ultimately overflows into regular road drainage within the village. The site seller installed the main overflow pipe 110mm from the pond to my site boundary. I am now extending that pipe a few meters into my plot but I will not be installing the underground crates for another year. I need the drain extension, that I am now digging the trench for, to end up at a suitable position where it will connect to the underground crate storage. How critical is the entry point positing into these plastic crates? I am not concerned about drainage flow gradient, my question relates to the connection point of the overflow pipe into the crates in plan view i.e. must it be at the corner of the 4 m3 hole or can it be any intermediate point?

Just reviving this thread to say your eBay link was excellent. 6m of 3" x 6" granite kerb stones are on the way across 8 counties on a pallet for a £50+VAT delivery charge. On the way back from our week away in Cornwall we detoured through the stunning countryside north of Dartmoor to visit https://www.winkleightimber.co.uk/ which is a large business that produces furniture onsite and sells all sorts of stone related materials on a near wholesale scale. We spent more time in their showroom and expect to order some internal rustic doors, a larder cupboard and wall plate rack later in the build.

Floodplains would be included though my plot is not in a floodplain which I think of as being specific to a river valley. Other local peculiarities can create a boggy plot that prior generations of house builders avoided. I forgot to include the Somerset Levels in my regional assessment, welcome to the boggy plot club.

The Victorians used up the last of the decent land with a bit of natural drainage in the east of England, we 21st century builders in Cambridgeshire and Lincolnshire have to contend with more ground moisture.

220 m2 ceiling = big house = (guess) £1200 a year for space heating. Assume 25% of heat loss is through the roof = £400 per year. 70mm / 50mm = 40% more insulation. 40% of £400 = £160 saving per year. = pay back period of 4 years = a lot less than the @PeterW= there must be a big error in my calculations.

How big is Home Farm? Also what internal temperature do you maintain?

Ah ah. I suppose I could test this by closing the mains stop cock, opening a hot water tap and then ensuring the boiler promptly gives up trying to heat the zero pressure circuit with no flow.

Ours is an extra wide one bedroom model which makes space for a bath plus a separate shower cubical. It is too nice hence a lowered incentive to complete the self build.

Ok. What about the mains water feed through the combi heat exchanger enroute to the dripping hot water tap. If that circuit drips and runs dry because the mains water stop cock is closed, any potential problem there? I have noticed that opening any tap in the static caravan kicks the boiler into action briefly.

Because of my lack of trust in the quality of the mains water plumbing supply into the static caravan I tend to shut off the main water stop cock at the site boundary when leaving the site for few days. This time I am more concerned about frost damage to the internal static caravan plumbing (cold, hot and CH radiators). What is the risk if I leave the CH boiler running and also close the mains water stopcock? My specific concern is that should a hot water tap drip a little while we are away the combi boiler will sense the pressure drop and fire up as it seems to do. In the worst case the combi might be trying to heat up an empty heat exchanger starved of an incoming water feed.

My guess. During heavy wind driven rain, water flows off glazing, over cill and then drips clear of wall. Without a 100mm extra each end some of the water flow will escape over the cill ends and run down the wall.

Yes though I cannot comment on the veracity of the data. I just bumped into that web site while looking for info on the availability of mains gas near me. Cannot beat that. Non-gas properties: 95.2% Fuel poverty: 12.7% Claimant count: 7 I.M. deprivation: 23.7 Cornwall has a two-tier economic structure. Yachtsmen get to see places like Fowey and the trendy bar-restaurant culture ashore near Falmouth Marine. I will be spending a week in a cottage next week in Poldark coastal Cornwall with a car so might see the other side.

About half the length of a facing brick. Edit: I can take a measurement off my neighbour's build tomorrow if you like?

No the intention is to keep frost off my footing walls. The B&B floor is in and the outer wall blocks are a block plus a bit lower. Outside of the outer foot wall is a muddy trench about a boot wide. A strong cavity fill comes to 20mm below the outer blocks. The blocks are 19Kg heavies so pretty weather resistant but my building inspector has vaguely mentioned his concern about a full winter of exposure. Straw bales were his suggestion but I don't want to create a high class winter residence for local rodents.

The material I am looking for will not be incorporated into the final structure of my house. The insulation performance of the material is not relevant, the criteria are light and bulky. I intend to make a linear sausage with a diameter of 400mm and will need at least 100 linear meters of this sausage. Someone has suggested straw bales, I would consider bubble wrap or packing beads though in the case of beads if the wrapper fails during a winter storm the result would be an eco disaster for the village downwind of my plot. Loft insulation works out at £15 m3 and I would need = 13 m3 I think for my 100m long sausage.

That is how it worked for my self build. Specialist heritage architect had no interest in doing architectural technician grunt work and was happy to recommend a local AT. What is missing in this thread is the complexity of the design. For a conventional house I see no problem handing off to another specialist for technical design however if the OP wants a weird grand design incorporating a fringe construction technique bolted onto a coastal cliff edge, then best get the whole design completed by a single team.

Thanks for the pointer, never heard of Jean Pain. Right now I aspire to nothing more than walls and a tiled roof.

There is clarity at the start of a bulk 2-year contract when the fixed teaser rate is in force. The problem is doing the maths over two years. My bottled LPG delivery driver (too smart for the job) used to work on the customer sales side of bulk LPG and his advice was look into the small print of the flexi price period then assume the worst.

I imagine customer density and refinery/pipe to depot distance will influence price. According to these maps Lincolnshire has poor provision of mains gas but lots of scattered rural communities and is well connected = good price. https://www.nongasmap.org.uk https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Refineries,_fuel_depots_and_pipelines_in_the_UK.GIF

This is important. I have been warned to cost out LPG heating using a worst case price assumption in the flexi period (typically 15 to 18 months) of the two years when the headline fixed rate has expired. You are in the fortunate position of being able to ride out the uncertainty of the flexi price period with a tank that does not require a refill. You post has got me thinking that the optimum time to start an bulk LPG 2-year contract is mid autumn because a 1200l tank filled in October at the fixed teaser rate should last one winter. Edit: 1200l * 6.9 KWH * 0.9 boiler efficiency = 7450 KWH = enough annually for a mid sized new build with half decent insulation.

One district council my way estimates they have 1400 static caravans used as a permanent residence, for them LPG is the default heating choice. https://www.e-lindsey.gov.uk/media/5847/CD57-Hidden-Communities-in-Caravans-Project-2011-Sheffield-Hallam-University-and-East-Lindsey-District-Council-/pdf/CD57_Hidden_Communities_in_Caravans_Project_2011_(Sheffield_Hallam_University_and_East_Lindsey_Distr.pdf

I wonder if that is based on the count of LPG boilers or bulk tank installations subject to the new'ish Government regulation of the industry? In Lincolnshire a surprising number of people reside in chalets and static caravans on park plots and receive bottled LPG for heating.

Last time I looked into a 2-year contract they (the Humbeside business you suggested) offered 38p per liter fixed for the first 6 months. I have no idea what the effective average rate is over the whole contract.

That would be it, bottled LPG prices are silly. I am currently paying £58 for a 47kg bottle to keep the static caravan warm or about £0.60 per litre.

The LPG cost looks odd, how is this figure derived? Many other references online indicte the cost is half that. https://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/about-us/our-calculations https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/home-heating-systems/article/home-heating-systems/lpg-central-heating https://www.thegreenage.co.uk/cheaper-heat-home-gas-electricity/