SteamyTea

Yes, it does seem the voltage is OK, maybe a problem with Sanyo HIT modules as they are 55V max load modules. Must be a large DC isolator. Had one burn out once when the electrician miss wired one.

The 4300S has a maximum DC voltage of 780V. Do you know what voltage your modules are. Do you have a spec sheet for them? Does look like it would be better off wired as two strings. Have you had any errors showing on the display?

My initial thoughts is that if all the modules are wired in series the voltage will go over the LV limit of 1000V. This does depend on which modules are fitted. What inverter do you have fitted?

May still need planning consent. Which aspect of 'green'? Like Eco, it actually means nothing. My diesel car is more green than an equivalent petrol car to a climate scientist, but to a respiratory doctor, it is far worse.

When I had my EPC survey done, my house magically doubled in size. What should happen, is that purchasers should take the survey seriously, get everything costed out, then subtract the price of the remedial work off the purchase price. May get some sensibly priced housing then. The whole housing market is based of fantasy. That is my rant over, for a few minutes anyway.

Heating is all about sizing correctly. The lower temperature that is used by an ASHP is really a diversion, try putting your hand in water at 48°C and you will see what I mean. First thing you need to do is calculate your heat load. This is a relatively simple calculation, it just involved knowing (or making some assumptions) the U-Values (W.m-2.K-1) the area of each external wall, window and door, plus the floor and roof, and the expected external temperatures (from the Met Office for your area). Then you can, for any desired internal temperature, calculate the heat loss. This will set the maximum losses, which is the same as the maximum load your heating system needs to deliver. From that you can then, depending on your choice of heating system i.e. GSHP, ASHP, Gas, Storage Heaters... go looking for suitable emitters (radiators, forced air, UFH). Domestic Hot Water (DHW) is pretty simple. Just a case of working out how much water you need, then the energy needed to heat it up. You probably have this information already a you own a hows with bills. Moving house does not change the amount of hot water that is used, generally.

There is the VAT position and the certificate of completion. But then there is also cashflow.

Sorry for the delay in the reply, I watched some Heing and Sheing, then some Sheing and Sheing on the internet. Now busy Meing and Meing.

Or a wanker.

If you have access to the electrical grid, compare the costs of running a wind turbine against E7/E10. If you are off grid, compare it to running a generator, or having suitably sized battery storage, as well as thermal storage. If the numbers still stack up, then ask an installation company to arrange a visit as they may well know the ins and outs of the local planning.

Probably not as much as the reduced humidity caused by the frost. A sheltered position is probably worth something, don't want the wind pushing itself against the fan.

I had this annoying strike though problem before, is someone playing with the forum software at the moment.

Goes back to the Unit of Energy, the joule [J]. A joule can be expressed as more simple, understandable units of the kilogram [kg], the metre [m] and time in seconds J = (kg.m2) / s2 Once you have a joule, which can be considered as a box of energy, power, is the rate you take the energy out of that box. Power is the watt [W]. There is a direct conversion between J and Wh. I wish we always dealt in joules, rather than watt.hour. It is just messy.

No need to go back to the wood if it is stuck okay. Make sure you get rid of all those horrible little spiky bits, they may look small, but can cause s similar problem. A sanding discs on an angle grinder is the quick way to remove GRP. Don't worry about the dust, you are going to itch until you get in a shower or bath, for the next 30 years, at least.

More panels if your DNO will support it. And it is kW, not kw.

Bowden sounds awful. "We enjoy a culture of singing, meditating, working, gardening, celebrating and learning together, as well as hosting eventsfor the wider community"

Going to be wet and very windy down here tomorrow. If you have a bit of spare time, have a little play with the resin and mat to get a feel for it. One thing to notice is how the noise change as you consolidate the mat. It is hard to explain how to do this sort of job, just experience really. And good hand cleaner.

When I used to make spa baths, I had two fitters. One, Cornish as it happens, was always in a hurry, generally an angry man. He very really used cleaner in the pipes. The other fellow, the one that did not look like a pirate, was meticulously neat, spent what seemed like forever cleaning things up. He never, as far as I remember, had a leak. He also finished jobs quicker. Odd that, wish my current boss could see that a bit of organisation and calmness saves time.

Making the bails more compact will increase the thermal losses, do will need thicker walls. And more straw. And more expense. You can tell I am not a fan of straw bails for housing. Glass or mineral wool us cheaper, quicker, better thermally, and in my case, itches a lot less.

For this sort of job you need to be resin rich. The excess resin should be drawn to the surface by the rolling. Don't press too hard on the roller, that can just pucker up the mat. The binder in the mat may take a minute or 3 to breakdown, so don't start rolling as soon as you have put the resin on, that just makes a mess and a noise.

Does look like a combination of lack of pre wetting and then curing too soon. Like the Curates Egg. It is good in parts. Try a bit less hardener, and half the amount in the bucket. If we were doing a large job, then we incrementally increased the hardener as we went along. So say 2.5%, then 3% and then 3.5%. just make sure each layer is from the same batch. Actually I never worked in percent, we used the tradition mixed units if cc to the lb.

Just had a thought, though won't affect the remedy. Where these bubbles where you joined/overlapped the original, successful, layup?

As the resin set, all I can think of at the moment is that there was some sort of inclusion in there. Case of sand off and start again by the sounds of it. From what Andy says, yes, as there was no milkiness, which is the usual giveaway.

I don't think it was water, or over catalysing. Did you spill any resin on the mat that then set hard, before you started? This used to happen quite alot, a few spots of hardened mat does not want to play nicely.

Gasoline and matches, coupled with good insurance.