SteamyTea

If there are 5 if you in there, and you all generate about 300W, then that is the same as a fan heater going. Have you thought of playing at a slower tempo.

Mould maybe. If the affected area is mainly in shadow, has poor airflow and little temperature rise above ambient, moulds can easily grow. They don't have to be just on the surface either, they can survive in the substrate.

Different climate. Very cold and dry winters, very hot, and sometimes humid summers. Not much spring or autumn.

Nor me, got another month to go at least, maybe 6 weeks.

Temperature is not heat (heat is the old word for energy). The reason you can adjust the temperature is that there is sweet spot for effective heating, or reheating, the cooler returning water after it has been though the radiators. This sweet spot is generally after half the energy has been removed. So say your water leaves the boiler at 80°C and returns at 60°C, then the radiators, on average, should have a temperature of 70°C. [to get the ° sign, hold the Alt key down and then put in the number 248] So my estimate of 8kW sizing was a bit low, this is the problem of working with averages, rather than actual data. I also probably under estimated the DHW needed, I forgot you had a large 5 bed house. When using a heat pump, it is more normal to have them running constantly, or as close to that as possible. This is generally not how a thermal boiler is set up. They tend to put is a lump of energy, then none, then another lump. This is partly why they are not that efficient at converting chemical energy to thermal energy. The stated efficiency of a boiler is the maximum it can achieve in ideal laboratory settings, real life knocks a few percent off that figure. So it seems your boiler is a bit oversized as it it set to the lowest temperature. I don't know if it is possible to downgrade your boiler to a lower output, some can be changed with smaller jets. That would reduce the fuel used. I do not have much against oil boilers, they are pretty good and the emissions are not as bad as people think. There is price volatility in the fuel costs which can be an issue as we have got used to relatively low heating oil prices over the last decade. Generally electricity prices are less volatile and new generation capacity from renewables are now the cheapest method to increase capacity. So that should suppress prices long term.

That will be about 10.5 MWh (assuming boiler is 80% efficient). How water usage will be about 2.5 MWh a year. 7 kWh/day (for a bath and a shower a day). Ideally you want to heat water fairly quickly, say 3 hours. So 2.5 kW. So that leaves 8 MWh/year for space heating. Assuming you heat the house for 8 months of the year, that is 1MWh/month. As a rough average, that is 33 kWh/day. This is a power delivery of 1.4 kW. Now you hardly need the heating on between May and November, so that is probably really only serious heating for 6 months, with the greater heating needed in December, January and February. A bit of spare is needed for extreme conditions, so let us tripple the power delivery to 3.5 kW for space heating, plus the DHW of 2.5 kW. This gives you a rough size of 6 kW for a heat pump. Now it is normal to oversize a bit, somewhere between 15 and 30%. So somewhere around 8 kW is, from these rough estimates, is the size of heat pump needed. It is very tempting to install an ASHP that is only just large enough, as this is the way that traditional boilers a sized. Traditional boilers tend to work best when they are at maximum power, this is because they have less losses per power delivered. Heat Pumps are not like that, they tend to loose efficiency the closer they get to maximum power, and can even rely on an inbuilt electrical resistance heater. They also rely on the outside air being dry. This leads to a quirk where the CoP can be lower at a higher air temperature. This is because air above 0° C can be more humid, and at 4°C can have the largest amount of water in it (water has greatest density at 4°C). By over sizing an ASHP, there is a larger area of the heat exchanger (just a car like cooling radiator), This allows for a bit of frosting up while still allowing energy to be transferred (the energy is gained by a cold liquid expanding into the radiator and turning to a gas, and then being warmed by the outside air, some designs are different, the the theory is the same). If you look at your boiler, it should state how large it is. This may be in kW (kilowatts, not KW, killa wot or the big sin, killer Watts per hour) or BTUs, British Thermal Units. A BTU is an odd unit, but 1 kW is equal to 3412 BTU/hr (this is where the confusion of with power and energy come from I think). So if you can have a peak at it sometime and see if you can find a number, that would be useful.

I rewrote the words to The Laughing Policeman once. Good luck with that.

Removal of all the mess made mixing up mortar, broken blocks, etc.

Put in some really powerful UV LEDs, that will kill all the germs. And like all boys in the shower, spending too long in there 'washing', will make you blind.

I have nothing more to add.

Should not be hard to do All the hardware and data is already in place, just need someone to organise it all.

Without knowing what your heat losses are, you cannot possibly say that your ASHP is the correct size. So I suggest you ask the installer to show you the calculations, then you can work out if the system is designed, and working as it should. Or you can keep thinking that everything is 'just wrong'.

Have you got your heat loss calculations to show us all.

Put the link up

There are ultrasonic sensors that are non-invasive for water pipes. https://www.omega.co.uk/prodinfo/ultrasonic-flow-meters.html Look for something cheaper though. You may find that a couple of temperature sensors set up differential may work.

I expect an cabrón emoji to appear on @pocster,s screen soon.

That looks very like a DHT11 sensors, they are dreadful. You may find the white ones, the DHT22 are much more reliable and accurate. They have a larger temperature range, DHT11 is 0°C to 50°C, DHT22 is -40°C to 80°C. RH range is better as well, 0% to 100%, rather than the not so useful 20% to 90%. This may seem a bit of an irrelevant difference, but I have found that the the DHT11 (blue) ones hit 100% relative humidity, they don't like reading properly afterwards.

Only available in Spanish then.

Pumping to a height of 200m would be a bit costly. And, as the Cornish Sea Salt company found out, you need permission from the EA to change the salinity of our coastal waters. But no permission needed to put dog shit in it. What is needed, and would be useful, is a monitoring system that sensed irradiation and wind velocity. That could predict when the sun may come out. No need for a weather service then, people in the UK only know, or care, about two types of weather, sunny or rain.

Not read in detail all the above, tl;dr. What state is the stainless in? Some grades of stainless disintegrate in the absence of oxygen. So the problem may be the interface between the aluminium and the retaining clips. I am no chemist, so can't give a break down of the reactions involved, but strange things happen in chain reactions and they are not always obvious.

Great down here

I have kept out of this for various reasons, but it seems to me that the ASHP fitted is undersized. Where and what loss calculations done by the installer. These used to be part of the MCS protocol.

You had the flattest site in the whole of the West Country. The curvature of the Earth is almost greater.

I was in the Middle of Lidl yesterday and they had a laser level for 25 quid.

How are you measuring. The easy way to do it is to stick in some stakes so that they are the same distance above the ground, they use a leveller to measure the height of each stake. You need to do this on a grid as mentioned earlier. You can make your own leveller with a hosepipe, bit of clear pipe and a tape measure. Start with the highest point and work downhill.