SteamyTea

If you have a 3 kW immersion heater on permanently, they you will use. 3 [kW] * 24 [hours in day] * 7 [days in week] = 504 kWh Not far of what you have used. Some heat pumps have a built in resistance heater, as does the storage cylinder.

By working out the heat loss for your construction type. If you had a SAP done, it should be o there. Or just work out the numbers from the areas i.e. floor, walls, windows, doors, roof, hove much insulation they have, that will give you the U-Value (eventually), then find a local weather station to get the last weeks figures, then work out the temperature differences, multiply that by your overall U-Value, multiply by hours in the week, and hey presto, you have your theoretical losses. So say you have a 10m2 wall that has a U-Value of 0.2 W.m-2.K-1, and the first two hours of the week had a mean temperature of -1°C, and your internal temperature was 18°C. Then: 0.2 [W.m-2.K-1] x (18 - -1) x 10 [m2] x [ΔT] x 2 [time in hours] = 76 Wh. Tedious, but useful, it is why we have spreadsheets.

How do you heat the rest?

So your house is pulling about 3.5 kW. What are your heating load figures for the type of external temperatures you had last week? May be worth doing some detection work. Then you may be able to see if you have a large load on permanently. Just a case of turning things off and looking at the remote meter display if you have one.

If, with the UK's climate, we could make use of stored solar energy for use later, we would be doing it. As would the rest of the world. The numbers just do not stack up unless you have a huge area of land to collect the energy. And then not loose any while it is stored. This is why growing trees and then burning the timber seems so attractive.

You will need a structural engineer to assess the foundation. At 300mm thick you may well have to dig it up. But then you can dig deeper and get some insulation in. Do you need a land contamination survey?

As long as the adhesive can take the temperature and RH, and you still need to put a lid on it. Acrylic can usually take the temperature, why they use it for bath tubs. Just use cast acrylic sheet, not extruded. Why not just fit a sauna. Easy wooden box with an electrical heater, not messing about with water (other than cleaning down). Make sure the unit can handle all the water that will pass though it.

They need to withstand temperatures of 55°C and 100% RH for prolonged periods of time. Similar numbers are used when 'rapid aging' paints and adhesives. And you will need some sort of extraction in the bath room, but not in the actual cabinet.

Made several hundred of them. Normal GRP will fail fairly quickly. What sort of steam generator are you using, will you need softened water?

Not usually. When I listened to it, it sounded like a warming kettle, which it is really. If water is being pumped around, just put your hand on the pump and feel it vibrating.

Does seem odd. Worth checking the controller if it is the immersion. The legionella issue is so over rated.

That is about 200W. Hard to tell remotely. Circulation pump maybe. Just that it sounds similar to my cylinder when it is heating up.

Is it back to normal now? The weather is. 11⁰C and wet.

See if there is an electrical isolator on the immersion. Failing that, turn all the stuff off in the house and see how fast the meter us running. 20 minutes should be about 1 kWh.

Could he the legionella cycle

Hard to tell but is the immersion heater on.

Sounds to me like you have bigger problems. In a well designed and fitted CH system, the recirculation pumps should be virtually silent in operation, and they only use a few watts of power. Start by describing the system. Is it UFH, radiators Type of ASHP Controller Temperatures you are running it at

Who drinks cyder with cheese sandwiches, rather than has marmalade ones.

Rather than try and save money on the brickwork, why not do a Part P electrical testing course and a plumbing one. Or do a stick build.

Get a jug and a stopwatch and check the shower flow rate. Then convert to cubic metres, and multiply by £8 My water costs more than heating it.

And on my very cheap Android phone.

A bit of creative designing and I am sure that drainage areas could be built in with GRP. But I always think of Nigel Pargetter's scream.

God no, would not be allowed down where I am, too close to a World Heritage Site, SSSi and AONB. Anything made after Trevithick improved the steam engine is frowned upon as too modern and untrustworthy. But some GRP cladding, walkways and stone like pillars i made, are still about, after 4o years.

Get some quotes for 250m² timber frame houses. Make sure you have all the important stuff already done i.e services, road access, contamination/bat/newt/ect surveys done. Then keep it simple.

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