SteamyTea

My sister had a dog that was in season once.

Now you have finished, does that mean you are going to 'do a Jeremy' and (expletive deleted) off.

Should be illegal. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m0011lf7

There is liquid water tight and vapour tight, different thing, should have been a bit clearer about that.

It takes a lot of energy to evaporate water from a brick. So anything that stops it getting into it, the better. If you create a dry atmosphere inside, as long as it is dryer that the partial vapour pressure that the inside brick temperature governs the evaporation rate, forced ventilation will help. Is there not a treatment that can be applied to bricks to stop them absorbing moisture.

Mine isn't on either, it is a very mild November in the SW this year.

Yes, especially as they know they are not going to get any piped in.

I looked into replacing mine a while back. I was not impressed with the cost. I did think of making a plinth, with a couple of fans around the base of mine. Then just control the fan when I wanted more convection. Trouble is my heat load is too small to worry about it.

There are people in the village I work in that still burn coal. Quite a few of them. They were offered bore hole GSHP, for free, a few years back, not many took them up on the offer.

Basically comes down to the thermal properties of materials. You can physically move a lot of energy, quickly, with water, not so easy with air.

How big is this room? Just a case of getting a unit with the airflow needed.

Not really.

Marginal improvements in the insulation, and the brick material, which can make them a little lighter. Some have fans built in as well. But basically, they are just heated bricks and a controllable flap to manage the airflow though them.

If you have a 200m2 house that needs 15W.m-2 heat load, that is 3 kW. So your 1 kW server room should not be too taxing. Now this is not strictly true as some power is going though walls, floors, windows etc, but I don't think it is a problem.

Reminds me of the system my Grandmother had (though she only had once circuit and the thermostat was in the cold hallway). One advantage of using a manifold is that you can control individual circuits, relatively easily. We have moved on since 1950.

That is an advantage of them.

https://www.stiebel-eltron.co.uk/en/products-solutions/renewables/heat_pump/brine-water_heatpumps/wpf_05_07_10_13_s/wpf_13_s/technical-data.product.pdf From the limited info it seems it is non inverter and you just buy a different capacity model. But have a good look in the controller submenues. Who knows what may be hidden in there.

AKA basic engineering. There is a certain fixation with U-Value. This is mainly to do with legislation. The main thing, that usually gets forgotten, us that it is to do with thermal losses, and therefore energy consumption. So it is better to look at what you want to achieve in that area, then work to it i.e a north facing wall, which never gets solar radiation in it should have lower U-Value to counteract.

They speak funny in Lincolnshire, just so they are not confused with people from Norfolk.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_diffusivity Just a measure of how much area a heat wave will travel in a set time. The smaller the number the better. Brick is 0.52 mm2.s-1 Wood is 0.082 mm2.s-1

With PV you may be dealing with up to 1000V DC. 12 modules in series will often have an open circuit of 530V DC, though it is usual to split that into two.

Not quite the same, as this is only the cladding stonework. https://www.cornwalllive.com/news/cornwall-news/stone-falls-cornwall-houses-due-4411304 Mate of mine lives on one of the developments, but his place is rendered, neighbours both sides aren't.

I think with regards to the old RHI, they decided that they were cheap enough not to need subsidising. Fir a lot of places, they would be a viable heating system.

No, I just use them upside down.