SteamyTea

Probably, just may take a while to start up, the crankcase may need reheating. May be worth seeing if you can put it on a weekly cycle. If you have UFH, you may want to run that in the summer to distribute any/some room heat around the house. This can help lower overall temperatures. Purely out of interest, why do you not heat your DHW with it?

Seems to be about normal for a controller. Would annoy me having a controller that used that much power.

Welcome Have a read of this: Quite a bit in it. kWh not kwh

A same one has to listen to him. And he talked about Thermal Mass.

So around -0.15°C/h Pretty good for an unfinished place.

There is on some of them. Winter generation ideally needs South Facing and around 15° from vertical. Was just a thought, I quite like the look of hexagon and pentagon, housing as it a little different. Would be harder to make, and if an architect was involved, crap to live in.

I could, but working on a load of more interesting data ATM. The main thing is to make sure air and water does not reach the pipes. Polystyrene is a pretty good insulator, just make sure that you dig the trench large enough to separate the pipes by at least 100 mm. Make the separators of polystyrene. If you open an account with a 'bead expander' there are a few on here that will buy extras off you, seems the only way to get them is to 'be in the trade'.

I know it. If the walls were angled to 15°C or so, the upper ones what face the sun (NE to NW) could be covered in PV, get good winter generation. I would feel a nob living in a place like that, but would make for a good business premises.

You can treat the heat loss from a pipe as exactly the same problem as a wall. Hot side, Cold side, Surface area and Thermal Properties. Dig a trench, pour in some polystyrene beads, lay pipe, more beads, then cover with a foot of dirt. Plant grass. If water table is a problem, pour in two part expanding PU foam and cover with paving slabs, then earth and seed.

Only trigonometry. Should not make a difference to the overall losses, would make a difference to the room by room though. Half dome is the best shape for a house, not sure how well a wardrobe would fit. There is a cafe in Tehidy Woods that is a hexagon (6 sided), it is not open much so don't make a special trip. I have often thought that as it is getting closer to a dome, it could make for an interesting house.

Yes. This is especially true if you do not know your air infiltration rates. The form of a building also makes a difference. Using two connected, but separate, metrics may shed more light on it. Volume to Total Area and Floor Area to Exposed Area may shed light on it. Just thought that Exposed Perimeter Length may be useful. Generally small houses perform badly on a Floor Area metric.

Yes. I intend to group the next analysis by delta T. Well I like statistics, much more informative.

Why? Spend the money on beer or whatever other happiness-inducing activity puts a smile on your face!!! Monitoring makes me happy. This topic has made me look back at my historic data, going to take me hours to get it all filtered, but should be able to see what improvements have happened. At least you know it, and where the problems are.

All our data is in that general ballpark, so probably pretty good. Yours works out as 0.35°C.h-1 If there was a temperature difference of 15°C, then I think that is reasonable. Would not be the case if the difference was 3°.

The analysis side is similar to a Bayesian result i.e. if this has happen, what is the probability that another thing is true. Weather prediction uses, and is checked with Bayesian statistics. Another way is to make up some probability tables from known variables and just look up results. That can be quite effective and uses little computational power.

I can see my laptop, with the phone charging off he USB port. That is it. If I look behind me, there is a radio.

Why we live here.

French wiring is dreadful, so you should be alright. An MCB is a Mini Circuit Breaker. A modern type of fuse. It may be in a separate box, on its own from the main fuse box, which are now called consumer units, CUs. A Double Pole Switch is just a larger switch, it disconnects both the live wires (positive and neutral in old language). A CT is a current clamp, or current transformer. It is usually a round thing that clamps over one of the main wires coming into the house. They often have a curly wire on them, like an old telephone.

Why, won't it fit down your jap eye. That, along with guitar string, are proper medical words.

I am sure if you got stuck, posted up the problem, with pictures, within a few hours you would have 5 right answers. Just do it. If all goes Pete Tong, call the manufacturers and ask them, just make sure they know what you do for a living.

What would have happened if you had shown it to a hairdresser, or a builder.

I have just started to use one, quite expensive, but does seem to do a very good job. I intend to do one of my long term tests with it. Stick a bit of timber to a paving slab and see how well it stands up to the weather.

Don't suppose it is covered by the consumer goods acts as it needs an electrician to install it. I would be wary of getting another one from them. Parents had a VW K70 in the 1970s. Was a dreadful car. Put me off getting a VW till 2006. Got a Golf. Was a dreadful car.

Too right. I am not sure if they (batteries) can help reduce imports when an ASHP starts up, not that they draw huge amounts of current these days. Think that is more down to how fast the inverter can react.

I had to study Philosophy of Science. Only remember Popper, Kuhn, Lakatos and Feyerabend. Was interesting and gave me an insight into thinking, which was quite helpful when doing my teacher training.