Leaderboard

Simple. the joint does not have to fix TO anything, it must just fix the two ends of plasterboard together. We had this in several places. simple solution. Fix one sheet. Cut an offcut of 4 by 1 or 6 by 1 that just fills the gap. Hold it in place and screw through the board that is already there. This then leaves the overhanging edge for the next board to screw into. It might not be what the professionals do, but it worked for me.

In Screwfix's clearance section they've 3 blinding Bosch cordless drills. A good deal if you just want a drill and not looking to build up a set of cordless tools: All 18V: x2 1.5Ah - £99.00 x1 4.0Ah - £79.99 x1 3.0Ah - £69.99 A respectable 67Nm too. EDIT: I have the 3.0Ah one as a general jobbing drill at work and it's really good, stubby too.

After working all day in the cold there is nothing better than standing under a red hot shower for ages. If I wanted a timed shower i will go to the local swimming pool.

This is the best 'zoom-able' pic I can find. The rails are supported by the pipe work which is held in place with brass Munson rings. Copper to irons on each end, and as a belt n braces job I created a ring so the manifolds got fed from both ends. I did that as the cold manifold was very long and could have suffered loss of flow and I just then carried that across to the hot manifold to as it was easy enough to do. The remit on that job was to be able to use all the showers at the same time and still have some useable flow / pressure elsewhere so went to town on this one. If you zoom in you'll see opaque / white plastic spacers in between the manifolds ( 3 to the long run ). These iirc were 28mm Talon pipe clips which held the rails with near spot on results. Another way to do this, if only feeding from just one end, would be a clip on the input pipe work and then a stub of pipe made off and cap ended ( or a DOC ) the other side, with enough pipe to get a second clip on.