Mr Punter Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 I am sure many people don't do any prep on liquid screeds - certainly not many developers - but they should be sanded and primed if you are tiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 18 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: You don't need to do any prep before you tile it and if the screeder is good it is smooth and flat enough to lay any flooring (LVT etc) whereas sometimes you can get little ripples and bubbles with liquid. https://www.ukscreedsltd.co.uk/preparing-liquid-screed-floor-tiling/ He said it would be more level with sand & cement 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 Just waiting for foam to go off ; then will cut excess followed by foil tape all joints . I don’t know ; feels like my build consists solely of pir with some cladding ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 Just make sure that your UFH pipes are very well secured so they don't lift / bend and end up poking through the top of the screed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 16, 2019 Share Posted April 16, 2019 5 hours ago, pocster said: Just waiting for foam to go off ; then will cut excess followed by foil tape all joints . I don’t know ; feels like my build consists solely of pir with some cladding ? That picture brings back memories from 2 years ago.... looks like a neat job. Have you left enough of the dpm to tape your airtight membrane onto? As @Onoff says make sure you pin the ufh pipes down well, our screeders wanted extra to protect against the pipe lifting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 16, 2019 Author Share Posted April 16, 2019 31 minutes ago, CC45 said: That picture brings back memories from 2 years ago.... looks like a neat job. Have you left enough of the dpm to tape your airtight membrane onto? As @Onoff says make sure you pin the ufh pipes down well, our screeders wanted extra to protect against the pipe lifting. Lol No dpm ; just vapour barrier to go ontop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 Cut off excess foam - taped joints . Vapour barrier now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 Emergency question ! i assumed the vapour barrier would have a ‘ install this side facing up ‘ ( like roofing barrier ) . But it doesn’t - so it doesn’t matter ? Seems strange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 First sheet down . Pushed it into the corners . Can see though when they pour the screed suddenly causing the plastic to slip and slide inwards . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 Tape the edge to the celotex, as well as taping the laps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 2 minutes ago, Mr Punter said: Tape the edge to the celotex, as well as taping the laps. Will do i was worried when it pulls it would rip the foil on the celotex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted April 17, 2019 Share Posted April 17, 2019 19 minutes ago, pocster said: i was worried when it pulls it would rip the foil on the celotex Nobody dies from that 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 17, 2019 Author Share Posted April 17, 2019 Double sided taped along vapour barrier join ; with single sided tape over edge 1 room done ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted April 23, 2019 Author Share Posted April 23, 2019 Ready for you @Onoff ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 1 hour ago, pocster said: Ready for you @Onoff ? Mankytoe Dachi? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 On 11/04/2019 at 08:28, JSHarris said: @SteamyTea) did an experiment with samples of EPS to see whether it absorbed water or not It was with some waterproof MDF and a bit of ply. The MDF absorbed very little water, less than 1% by mass, the ply not so good, but the adhesive was as good as new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan F Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 On 11/04/2019 at 09:46, Jeremy Harris said: In our case, we have 200mm of Type 3, blinded with ~50mm of coarse grit, under the EPS, and 100mm land drains around the periphery, under the edge of the ballast, to ensure that it's well drained. In addition, the base of the EPS is at ground level anyway, the photo below shows the layer of Type 3 before it was blinded and the EPS was laid. It's really hard to see how water could be pushed upwards into the EPS. In our case it's on 150mm of Type 2, blinded with sharp sand and then EPS (without any DPM between sand and EPS). This is the same foundation system/manufacturer as Jeremy and many others. We hadn't realised that the detail in our foundation design had this until the slab was in. ?. Agree with @ADLIan that it's not really the way to do things, but I don't know if it's an issue in practice, other than potential for small decrease in u-value due to moisture absorption through capillary action. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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