Best (i.e. easiest!) way to level floor?

[Rob99]

I have a utility room with an existing screeded floor which is out of level by around 10mm in a distance of 2m so quite noticeable. Where I've been doing the other existing floors I have only need to do odd patches with latex prior to gluing my Wunda floor heating panels down.

 

The room is only 2.5x2m so quite small but would take several bags of latex and a few separate layers to get it nice and level and I assume there must be a better and easier way to do it. The finish doesn't have to be perfect as it will have the heating panels on top but it does need to be level.

 

Any advice or recommendations gratefully received.

 

Cheers

 

[Russell griffiths]

There is a high build one that will do that height in one go. 

[Rob99]

Do you have the details for this?

[Tin Soldier]

Rob I used setcrete deepbase does up to 50mm

[Rob99]

Thanks for that. Just googled it and seems ideal although i will probably have to do it in 2 halfs as a bag only does just over 2m2

 

Did you find it flows and levels itself quite well? I have found with some latex compounds that they don't flow that well which sort of defeats the object of them being "self levelling"

[Oz07]

Why can't u mix 2 lots at once

[PeterW]

You need to wet the floor until it’s sopping with a mop, then mix the SLC with an extra pint of water per bag and you’ll find its better than as by the bag instructions. It won’t fully self level but will if you trowel it carefully. 

[MarkyP]

setcrete is really good quality stuff. It's actually a re-badged FBall product . The deep base is good, I used some just last week but it does have a grittier grain size and can be a bit harder to feather out thin. I would only use it for a deeper application. For 10mm or so, I would use the setcrete high performance levelling compound. This is good up to 15mm in a single application, is much less gritty and in my experience does flow and level slightly better. My theory is the deep base has a slightly gluey nature which is necessary to hold the aggreagete in suspension in a deeper fill. With setcrete you'll need to prime rather than wet the subfloor, read the prep guidance.  Use the Fball/setcrete primer, it's green stuff, acrylic based. Adding a little extra water does help it flow but from memory it's recommend to use about 3.5l per bag, and I've added an extra 250mm to 350mm or so. Too much extra water and the suspension of the fine aggregates can be affected.

 

I've used a fair bit of this over the years, just remember these are smoothing compounds which have self levelling properties to varying degrees, they don't self level all on their own! They all  need a degree of trowelling out and careful pouring. A spiked roller brings it up to a lovely, pin hole free finish and removes trowel lines, but overkill for a one off job. 

 

one last tip - you can stick some window packers of appropriate size across the floor to guide your levels as your pour.

 

 

 

 

[Rob99]

On 09/03/2019 at 06:33, Oz07 said:

Why can't u mix 2 lots at once

Mainly because the work time is generally around 20 minutes and it takes at least 10-15 minutes to pour, trowel and feather off the edges. Unfortunately I don't have anyone who can mix a second batch whilst I do the first.

[Rob99]

21 hours ago, MarkyP said:

setcrete is really good quality stuff. It's actually a re-badged FBall product . The deep base is good, I used some just last week but it does have a grittier grain size and can be a bit harder to feather out thin. I would only use it for a deeper application. For 10mm or so, I would use the setcrete high performance levelling compound. This is good up to 15mm in a single application, is much less gritty and in my experience does flow and level slightly better. My theory is the deep base has a slightly gluey nature which is necessary to hold the aggreagete in suspension in a deeper fill. With setcrete you'll need to prime rather than wet the subfloor, read the prep guidance.  Use the Fball/setcrete primer, it's green stuff, acrylic based. Adding a little extra water does help it flow but from memory it's recommend to use about 3.5l per bag, and I've added an extra 250mm to 350mm or so. Too much extra water and the suspension of the fine aggregates can be affected.

 

I've used a fair bit of this over the years, just remember these are smoothing compounds which have self levelling properties to varying degrees, they don't self level all on their own! They all  need a degree of trowelling out and careful pouring. A spiked roller brings it up to a lovely, pin hole free finish and removes trowel lines, but overkill for a one off job. 

 

one last tip - you can stick some window packers of appropriate size across the floor to guide your levels as your pour.

 

 

 

 

Thanks @MarkyP that's really helpful. The floor tapers from virtually nothing down to 10mm so maybe the deepbase isn't ideal so I will go for the high performance compound and mix in a little extra water.

 

Do I definitely need their acrylic primer? What is the benefit of this over just wetting the floor as I've done for areas where I've used everbuild latex for odd patches?

[MarkyP]

I think the primer is to control suction in the subfloor, stabilise dusty surfaces and promote bond between the smoothing compound and the subfloor. It's used neat on non-absorbent subfloors, and dilute on absorbent surfaces. I think the can of primer is about a tenner, cheap enough that I'd never considered not using it.

[Rob99]

Primer it is then...............having spent the best part of £20k on UFH, engineered wood flooring and kitchen i'm tending not to count the pennies and just do it properly and do it once.

 

Also means I am getting to buy some nice tools I've always wanted but couldn't justify buying before......?

[PeterW]

If you have a local B&Q warehouse they are selling off all their Mapei SLC for £9.98 a bag. It’s good stuff - just add an extra pint to each bag..! 

 

Also, get a Plasterer’s bucket for mixing in. Much stronger and will hold the full bag and it’s water. 

 

Use the Mapei tile primer too - do NOT use PVA. 

[Rob99]

OK, got some setcrete compound and just painted the floor with the dilute acrylic primer.

 

Should the floor look green all over when it dries? Mine only seems to be green in a couple of places!!!

[Rob99]

Update - levelled the floor over the weekend, all went really well. Very impressed with the setcrete compound, would definitely use it again. It was quite good at levelling itself and only needed a little bit of trowelling into corners and where it was only a very thin layer near the door.

SWMBO's dead impressed with the floor now and at how quick it dried and today I laid the Wunda overlay boards and just finished the pipe circuit now.

Now for the lounge!!

 

Thanks for the advice ?

[MarkyP]

glad it went well.

 

Only just spotted your earlier comment about the primer - when used dilute on porous surfaces it doesn't dry universally green, it does look a bit patchy and is mostly translucent, the green bits are usually where it's gone on a bit thicker. When used neat over non-porous, it comes up thicker, tackier, and more obviously green. Obviously an after thought now but may be useful for others