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Gone West

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I didn't notice the recess. If you print vertically it might need supports enabled "everywhere" to support the top edge of the recess. Either that or change the design so the top of the recess is at say 45 degrees rather than a horizontal overhang.

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6 minutes ago, Temp said:

I didn't notice the recess. If you print vertically it might need supports enabled "everywhere" to support the top edge of the recess. Either that or change the design so the top of the recess is at say 45 degrees rather than a horizontal overhang.

 

Recess shown on the blue CAD model on the previous page. Halfway up the pin.

Edited by Onoff
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1 hour ago, scottishjohn said:

what temp is this thermo plastic melting at ?

did you scan the old one or just design it on cad?

 

 

The PLA the white one is printed from melts around 180-220degC from what I've read. It has though a "glass transition temperature" of 60-65degC which I think is when it starts to go from "floppy" to solid so I don't think it would be any use as a stat housing. Might be wrong! More to it than that like how it's printed; layer thickness, fill %age, layer orientation. All can affect strength. 

 

3D scanning, I wish! No, I just measured it up with my trusty, non digital, Mauser vernier caliper and drew on AutoCAD.

 

Lots of people playing with 3D scanners out there, some where you strap your smart phone on to act as the camera. Some use a turntable. A search on YouTube brings up things like this:

 

 

 

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You can soften PLA in a cup of hot tea :-)

 

For Halloween I printed some stencils flat (1.5mm thick) and then dipped them in hot water to make them soft and formed them over the pumpkin we were going to carve. Few seconds later they set up to match the shape of the pumpkin.

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There are some photogrammetry programs available that look pretty impressive but I've not tried them yet..

 

https://m.youtube.com/results?search_query=photogrammetry

 

For simple regular objects measuring and redraughting is quicker

 

Edit: Sorry @Onoff i missed your post above somehow.

Edited by Temp
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14 hours ago, Onoff said:

Interesting, this seller is producing LED worklights adapted to fit a number of different makes of Li-ion battery:

 

Which says

 

Quote

…and that care must be taken not to over discharge the battery during use.

 

so the first time you get distracted for half an hour you write off a battery. Excellent.

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9 hours ago, Ed Davies said:

 

Which says

 

 

so the first time you get distracted for half an hour you write off a battery. Excellent.

 

Hang on...I've been reading elsewhere:

 

"Dewalt and Makita have the BMS/LV cut off in the tool.

Ryobi, Ridgid, Milwaukee all have a basic BMS in the battery.

 

Makita batteries marked with a * (star) or yellow marking have over-heating and over-discharge protection. The non-star ones do not".

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3 hours later...

 

Fit on the battery is impressively accurate. 0.3mm layers at 25%. Not sure how resilient it'll be long term. It's quite lightweight tbh. Just seen you can get special paint to improve the surface (by smoothing) and durability of 3D printed models.

 

20200104_004358.thumb.jpg.816cd1b90b8d2cf422f5e8a96652b1c3.jpg

 

20200104_004409.thumb.jpg.906d1d7da85176069b4de119bdbd3458.jpg

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The 2nd big piece, that fits to the Ferrex tool didn't print so well. He thinks because he printed it upside down to reduce supports. It fits the Ferrex tool OK but its "rough".

 

Will try again!

 

20200104_234050.thumb.jpg.112d1e5bf1b12bcbe40aba406c5d5ff6.jpg

 

20200104_234106.thumb.jpg.c6a625c4d9887ea3ba75d9ee40f3dc53.jpg

 

20200104_234136.thumb.jpg.8d4b87c98ed8e0aa43df1c6b7dac58b8.jpg

 

Tbh, with these prints I might now CAD my own up and at the same time try and reduce the height of the adapter section which adds about 30-40mm to the tool height. This particular print expects you to cannibalize a 2Ah Ferrex battery for the contacts. As I have neither a Ferrex battery or charger I think I'll just drill the contact blades in the bottom of the Ferrex tool and solder on wires.

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Son re did the bit that goes onto the Ferrex tool but "right" side up. Much better. Cut down on the supports underneath to speed things up which might have been a mistake as it's a bit stringy and rough here and there but then you won't see this area. (White PLA really is crap to photograph):

 

20200106_205657.thumb.jpg.e25533a49b459beeaaec4bc95d9a0036.jpg

 

(Broke a little bit off one of the slot edges when clipping to the tool as I misaligned it). 

 

As I've no intention of ever buying a Ferrex charger or battery, the plan is to drill through the tangs in the tool base and solder heavy duty wires on. Lad is just printing the Makita battery connector for me.

 

20200106_205741.thumb.jpg.6e277b15161041bd1c9683d3a40b8556.jpg

 

Can't help thinking this would be better in ABS. Going to buy some ABS Pro I think.

 

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I found a random spring and 4 screws. Seems like it might work. White probably not the best colour, it'll attract dirt like a DeWalt!

 

This is PLA btw. Got some grey ABS now to try as well.

 

You're supposed to cannibalize a Ferrex battery to get female connectors as I think I've mentioned but I'll likely just Stanley out where the 5 slots are and take two chunky wires soldered to the Ferrex tool. 

 

 

 

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Should have had a beer before!

 

Crimped a couple of 1.5mm2 wires into the tool, inside, (internal battery wiring is 18 AWG) and brought them out through a couple of drilled holes:

 

20200110_084120.thumb.jpg.f1ab15edb468225683d6a2096450fe82.jpg

 

Probably should have stopped there!

 

Put the wires onto the Makita battery and nada, nothing! A quick check with the meter and I found I had continuity from the battery POSITIVE, through the tool switch to the motor. Had no continuity though on the negative side. Looked at the SMD laden pcb and thought I can't even see half the stuff and even with a magnifying glass probably haven't the dexterity everything's so small.

 

20200110_174635.thumb.jpg.1a611a93475c92d02433557ca551ffe5.jpg

 

I then, for some reason took the battery off. Half asleep I put it back on but with reversed polarity! There was a crack and some smoke and the variable resistor is well and truly cooked!

 

Bin job.

 

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The fridge handle was a failure! 

 

I modelled it in AutoCAD and it looked great. All soft curves. Printed some small sections and they fitted a treat.

 

I then somehow lost the model! I'd sent beforehand my lad the .stls for the handle and bit that screws to the door as two separate parts for some reason. He put them together but as meshes, the resultant model looked faceted. This is how it printed, dog rough, like a lobster's back!

 

20200114_182312.thumb.jpg.497452367f7f31c9dd85e2024db247c2.jpg

 

One side of the handle was just an open mesh!

 

20200114_182339.thumb.jpg.027dfea2b474e0a076473f628b491425.jpg

 

Something lost in translation between packages I guess!

 

Going to simplify the next attempt, all right angles, minimal radii and no overhangs! 

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