mvincentd Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Bit of a Sunday panic as my garage door is imminent. I'd been thinking plasterboarding the garage ceiling was a very low priority but maybe not. It's an adjoining garage so I think must have 2 x fireboard layers? I'm wondering if these become a total pig to fit if the door and its accompanying tracks are on 1st? Its a Hormann sectional Door. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Your ceiling needs to be insulated and double boarded with fireline prior to garage door if any of the fixings are on the ceiling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobbiniho Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 the tracks are only held up by a couple of "L" brackets, the door can be fitted then when plasterboarding is done the tracks can be propped up with wood and the "L" brackets removed and then reinstated after the plasterboarding is completed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvincentd Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 Thanks, it's good to know there's a way back if I don't get it pb'd in time but sounds like the least grief is to pb first. Building inspector wanted to next see after 1st fix but still exposed...dont suppose he'll care about this bit being pb'd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivienz Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 My garage has yet to be boarded but the door was fitted a few weeks ago. Is @Hobbiniho says, the various tracks and fittings can be propped up during the boarding then re-attached afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 32 minutes ago, mvincentd said: but sounds like the least grief is to pb first WRONG! The first thing your garage door fitters will say is "where are the ceiling joists sherlock?" If the brackets land between joists then you'll need to have beefy noggins fitted to take the heavy duty fixings. Either that or the garage fitters may slap you with an extra and supply and fit ugly uni-strut to traverse joists and create fixing points. Let the guys fit the garage doors, infilling with timber where necessary, and then you just drop one bracket at a time as you board sections at a time. When you reinstate the fixings you know you're going back into the underlaying noggins and the ceiling will be free from clutter. The only consideration id look at is skinning the wall with the garage door opening with 18mm ply / other to stop any cold bridging from the steel over the door. The garage door running gear will need a fix to this and creates a metal / steel connection that's not ideal, imo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I have just fitted two Horman sectional doors and you need to fit them before plasterboarding to ensure solid fixings to carry the weight of the door when it is open. It will look alot neater when it is finished as well. As @Nickfromwalessays just drop one bracket at a time to plasterboard then re-attach afterwards. The other way I have seen it done was to plasterboard/skim and then attach a fairly decent timber the width of the garage opening to the joists/trusses above and then attach the brackets of the Horman door to this timber. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 10 minutes ago, Pete said: I have just fitted two Horman sectional doors and you need to fit them before plasterboarding to ensure solid fixings to carry the weight of the door when it is open. It will look alot neater when it is finished as well. As @Nickfromwalessays just drop one bracket at a time to plasterboard then re-attach afterwards. The other way I have seen it done was to plasterboard/skim and then attach a fairly decent timber the width of the garage opening to the joists/trusses above and then attach the brackets of the Horman door to this timber. Other option is to 18mm shuttering ply ( cheapest of the plywoods ) the whole thing prior to PB and crack on. NB : Don't forget to provision for the power and bell push wires 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivienz Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Mike - you're welcome to pop over to see my garage doors, if it helps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvincentd Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 That's comprehensive...i think I know what to do(and more) now! Brilliant set of answers cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 20 minutes ago, mvincentd said: That's comprehensive...i think I know what to do(and more) now! Brilliant set of answers cheers. Don't forget if you have to install FR ( fire rated ) plasterboard on the garage ceiling, you also need to put a continuous 100mm single layer running as a pelmet on the surrounding walls, in contact with the ceiling. Just a heads up as normally you'll be bringing cables / pipes / other through into the garage, to bury a bit of plant or the fuseboard, so you either need to keep things up in the joist space or keep then 120-150mm below final ceiling level so you avoid having to detail that pelmet around 'obstacles'. The pelmet needs mechanical fixings ( screws ) and the pelmet > ceiling junction needs to be sealed with intumescent FR acrylic sealant, as do the joins and the open underside of the pelmet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 17 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Don't forget if you have to install FR ( fire rated ) plasterboard on the garage ceiling, you also need to put a continuous 100mm single layer running as a pelmet on the surrounding walls, in contact with the ceiling. What is this pelmet you speak of? My garage is attached. My ceiling and all the walls are clad in 2 layers of fireline plasterboard. But I do not have this pelmet and do not understand what it is trying to achieve. The crucial thing I always understood was the joints in the first layer of fireline must be staggered from the joints in the second layer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 38 minutes ago, ProDave said: What is this pelmet you speak of? My garage is attached. My ceiling and all the walls are clad in 2 layers of fireline plasterboard. But I do not have this pelmet and do not understand what it is trying to achieve. The crucial thing I always understood was the joints in the first layer of fireline must be staggered from the joints in the second layer. Maybe different regs in the land of the haggis Down here its a standard detail to satisfy building regs, and the purpose is to ensure a dead stop at the periphery of the FR ceiling for fire egress. Basically takes the ceiling FR boarding from a layer to a 'tray'. I think the vertical gap against breeze block / brick ( typical ) walls was never good enough to just seal, so the pelmet completes the system a treat IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvincentd Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Don't forget Well.....can't forget what I didnt know in the first place. Thank you Nick, i'd definitely have failed there had you not piped up. What a faff adjoining garages are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 2 hours ago, ProDave said: What is this pelmet you speak of? My garage is attached. My ceiling and all the walls are clad in 2 layers of fireline plasterboard. But I do not have this pelmet and do not understand what it is trying to achieve. The crucial thing I always understood was the joints in the first layer of fireline must be staggered from the joints in the second layer. Ah, just re-read. The pelmet is applicable if you haven't had to put FR on the walls eg brick / block construction. With 2 layers on the walls AND floors the junction integrity is there. Just giving general info out is sometimes too general. @mvincentd take note please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvincentd Posted January 14, 2019 Author Share Posted January 14, 2019 Ah...probably still applies to me though, my garage is mostly in-situ concrete which I wasn't going to bother boarding unless condensation issues compelled me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 Happy days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 14, 2019 Share Posted January 14, 2019 7 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Ah, just re-read. The pelmet is applicable if you haven't had to put FR on the walls eg brick / block construction. With 2 layers on the walls AND floors the junction integrity is there. Just giving general info out is sometimes too general. @mvincentd take note please. I had forgotten about brick built garages. Mine is all timber hence the 2 layers of fireline on the walls as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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