Internal Door Linings

[Onoff]

Any benefit in using a rebated door lining like this:

 

https://www.selcobw.com/products/timber-mdf-sheet-materials/softwood-primed-mdf/door-linings/door-casing-set-rebated-38mm-x-115mm-nom-2-6-head-pefc

 

As opposed to to one where you pin the strips on?

 

Long time since I've fitted one...like 30 years. 

Edited December 22, 2018 by Onoff

[joe90]

Frankly I prefer plant on door stops, if the door is slightly warped or the frame not perfect, you can plant the door stops to match the door and i always glue them as well.

[Onoff]

  On 22/12/2018 at 22:42, joe90 said:

Frankly I prefer plant on door stops, if the door is slightly warped or the frame not perfect, you can plant the door stops to match the door and i always glue them as well.

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"Stops" that was the word! Unfortunately I've lost the ones that came with the lining, it's been so long. 

 

I've read 6" in for the top hinge, 9" for the bottom one .

 

Then 2mm gap top & sides.

 

Sound about right?

[joe90]

Yup. I hate doors that stick because they are too tight in the frames, 2mm is what I use, plenty of Space for paint .

[Crofter]

I found it was a lot easier to build the lining around the door than to make the door fit the lining. And don't skimp on the gaps.

For hinge spacing, maybe just copy whatever other doors are in the house.

[Onoff]

  On 22/12/2018 at 23:32, joe90 said:

Yup. I hate doors that stick because they are too tight in the frames, 2mm is what I use, plenty of Space for paint .

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Ta. Thinking an oak veneer door eventually, like this:

 

 

https://www.selcobw.com/products/doors-windows-stairs/doors/internal-doors/palermo-internal-oak-door-1981-x-762-x-35mm-6-6-x-2-6-fscr

 

Any problems with this type (veneer) in a bathroom setting?

 

Planning as I said elsewhere to re-use the old door "for now". 

 

 

I am assuming it's bad very roughly fitted before. Hinges only about 2" long, barely let in.

 

 

Should I aim for brass, st/st hinges? 2 or 3? At the mo the hinges are 195mm in from each end. I'll just re-cut for the new hinges at the 6" top / 9" bottom positions. 

 

Need to assess how square the existing door is and delve down the shed to see what hinges I have.

 

[Onoff]

  On 23/12/2018 at 08:53, Crofter said:

For hinge spacing, maybe just copy whatever other doors are in the house.

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No rhyme or reason, totally random. 

 

You've lost me...build lining around door? Got a ragged hole here. Half a plan to cut the haunches off the header. Screw header to sides. Sit in hole. IF door is square then shim up all round...

 

Going to make a quick hinge jig for the router.

 

 

Edited December 23, 2018 by Onoff

[scottishjohn]

  On 22/12/2018 at 23:32, joe90 said:

Yup. I hate doors that stick because they are too tight in the frames, 2mm is what I use, plenty of Space for paint .

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If using MVHR  --no need to get door air tight fit as you need a gap underneath them to let air circulate. just enough to let it close easily with a wee push .

so your 2mm could be wider no problem especially if you going to paint the frames and lacquer the door .

10mm gap underneath them is what i was told by MVHR supplier,to  allow good  air movement 

 

Edited December 23, 2018 by scottishjohn

[scottishjohn]

I,m seriously considering sliding "pocket" doors for new build -furniture can go anywhere then and sealing of doors not needed with mvhr.

I just don,t like full open plan--but will be like that if doors slid back in pockets  to join kitchen and dining into one big open area when needed.

 

 

[Onoff]

  On 23/12/2018 at 09:11, scottishjohn said:

I,m seriously considering sliding "pocket" doors for new build -furniture can go anywhere then and sealing of doors not needed with mvhr.

I just don,t like full open plan--but will be like that if doors slid back in pockets  to join kitchen and dining into one big open area when needed.

 

 

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I wanted a pocket slider here...SWMBO didn't!

 

Got one on our bedroom. Since I turned the standard double bed into a super king size there's even less space so it's a godsend. Cheap door gear  (Slik?) so a bit noisier than I'd like but super practical.

[Dreadnaught]

  On 23/12/2018 at 09:11, scottishjohn said:

I,m seriously considering sliding "pocket" doors for new build

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I was thinking the same for my build. My concern about pocket doors is that I think the pocket compromises sound insulation for that section of the wall. I would therefore only put them in locations where compromised sound insulation isn't going to cause a problem.

[lizzie]

I dropped the pocket doors from several locations due to sound insulation as @Dreadnaught says.  I ended up with just one pocket door into the w.c. off the utility room.  I have eclisse so mechanism is good and the added comfort that you do not have to hack the wall out to get at it if problems as you do with some other brands.

 

Now I am glad I have just the one pocket door, it works perfectly in that confined space but I wouldnt want them everywhere.

[scottishjohn]

I,m not sure why this type of door panel should be an worse then std door for sound proofing.

you could add "brushes like you would draught excluder strips

https://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/hafele-pocket-hideaway-door-systems-for-1-door.html?utm_source=google_shopping

[lizzie]

  On 23/12/2018 at 09:42, scottishjohn said:

I,m not sure why this type of door panel should be an worse then std door for sound proofing.

you could add "brushes like you would draught excluder strips

https://www.building-supplies-online.co.uk/hafele-pocket-hideaway-door-systems-for-1-door.html?utm_source=google_shopping

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It is because the wall has to be hollow to allow the dor to slide in. On your normal internal wall you would have sound insulation, the door that slides into the hollow wall is suspended with a gap all around.  Mine has brushes.

 

If the door is closed you have a hollow wall with no sound insulation, if the door is open you have a hollow wall with no sound insulation and a piece of wood or whatever suspended in the hollow wall which doesnt provide much sound insulation.

Edited December 23, 2018 by lizzie

[scottishjohn]

so its really down to the wall -and how you build it ?

that,s easily solvable if decision is made at design stage , 

 

[lizzie]

  On 23/12/2018 at 09:49, scottishjohn said:

so its really down to the wall -and how you build it ?

that,s easily solvable if decision is made at design stage , 

 

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If you were to insulate you would have to make your wall considerably thicker. These doors are designed to run in a stud wall between the two sheets of plasterboard, , even the instructions tell you to take care that plasterboard nails do not protrude and scratch the door.

[scottishjohn]

  On 23/12/2018 at 09:52, lizzie said:

If you were to insulate you would have to make your wall considerably thicker. These doors are designed to run in a stud wall between the two sheets of plasterboard, , even the instructions tell you to take care that plasterboard nails do not protrude and scratch the door.

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If you worried about sound then maybe your walls should be thicker anyway ?.maybe 50mm thicker wall full length still gives you more usable space than a swinging door .

It is  injmy mind as well for easy wheel chair access as well

or use foam back plaster board ?-

like I said you make it work at design stage 

[Onoff]

Can't find the pics at the mo but I built my stud wall for the pocket out of 2"x2" with bog standard 1/2" pb on the outside. Infilled the stud with Rockwool batts. No worse sound wise than any others tbh. The face the door shuts against I routed out and fitted self adhesive intumescent foam strip. Works a treat. Tbh there's nothing to go wrong inside with the aluminium track. Think it's just the cheap rollers are noisy. Door comes off in a couple of minutes if they're ever an issue. This is my one:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/sliding-door-gear/p34159?

 

 

 

 

[Crofter]

  On 23/12/2018 at 08:59, Onoff said:

You've lost me...build lining around door?

 

 

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Make up your lining and assemble the three pieces, leaving the jambs over long. Header should be measured to give an opening at least 4mm wider than the door.

Tack a bit of batten across the top of the roughed out opening, rest your door against this with something to prop it up.

Shim up the bottom of the door to give the desired clearance to the floor, and to bring it level.

The brand new door should be perfectly square- mine were anyway.

Lift the lining into place around the door. Determine how much you need to chop off the jamb on each side, and cut to size.

Install the liner into the rough opening using packers as required to maintain the desired gap all around. Ideally you can fix it using screws which will be hidden underneath the stops.

 

You probably knew half of that already

 

[Onoff]

  On 23/12/2018 at 13:32, Crofter said:

The brand new door should be perfectly square- mine were anyway.

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IF I was using a brand new door!

 

 

 

Going to trim it down to 750mm width (it's 751 at the top) to square  it up then graft a 12mm strip up the hinge side to bring it back to 762mm.

 

Anyway it's only temporary...like the carpet...

 

 

"Fire up the router!"

[Onoff]

So I made a router jig. Worked an absolute treat. 3" hinges fit like a glove:

 

 

Needs a bit of sanding...

 

 

 

Pity I did 6" at the bottom and 9" at the top!   Turned the effin door through 180 like an idiot!

 

They're now through housings... 

Edited December 23, 2018 by Onoff

[Crofter]

Blimey, I think I would have gone to Wickes and spent £20 on a new door!!

[Onoff]

  On 23/12/2018 at 19:51, Crofter said:

Blimey, I think I would have gone to Wickes and spent £20 on a new door!!

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Scots blood here maybe?

 

The faux pas first!

 

 

It'll do! Need to tweak here and there. 

 

 

 

[ProDave]

Now can someone tell me how to make / buy oak door frames to fill a 180mm thick wall without sacrificing an arm and a leg please.

[Jeremy Harris]

  On 24/12/2018 at 09:33, ProDave said:

Now can someone tell me how to make / buy oak door frames to fill a 180mm thick wall without sacrificing an arm and a leg please.

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Best bet will be to buy cheaper narrow boards and hide the joint under the stops, as narrow boards are generally cheaper than wide ones.  We bought all our oak from British Hardwoods, on the recommendation of Joiner (from Ebuild).  I have to say they were very good, and all the oak we received from them was near-perfect.  Their price was pretty good too, but I did buy a lot of oak from them, as all our skirtings, architraves, shelving as well as the doors and linings, are in a plain oiled oak finish.  I still have some 120 x 20 and 70 x 20 boards left over, and have been using it for odd jobs, like the CNC machined house name sign we put up earlier this year (I laminated up two 20mm thick boards to make that thick enough).

 

Biscuit jointing narrower oak boards should be easy enough, and the joints don't need to be tidy, as they will be hidden.  Also worth placing all the screw fixings under the stops too.  We did this and it worked a treat, hiding all the fastenings and saving me having to cut and glue plugs.