June 30, 20188 yr Mate's kitchen: The consensus on YouTube seems to be you punch a hole thru with a chisel and chip it out round by hand to fit the tap? Is that right or would a grit edge holesaw be better? He's putting it off as scared of buggering his sink! Cheers
June 30, 20188 yr 37 minutes ago, Onoff said: Mate's kitchen: The consensus on YouTube seems to be you punch a hole thru with a chisel and chip it out round by hand to fit the tap? Is that right or would a grit edge holesaw be better? He's putting it off as scared of buggering his sink! Cheers I would us a diamond tiped core bit on slow speed in batterie driver It will cut through like butter Though the video looks effective But could be his third attempt ?
June 30, 20188 yr One small hole with ceramic drill bit then use a diamond abrafile to cut the hole. IF there are any weaknesses in the manufacturing the Chisle method will find them spectacularly. The Diamond saw method is so much lower energy and controllable.
June 30, 20188 yr Chisel is the manufacturers recommended method - they create a weak point in the sinks to allow for this. The sink material isn’t tough enough in the centre to take a drill bit and it may wander and a grit edge hole saw will skip on the glaze and scratch it ...
June 30, 20188 yr 4 hours ago, PeterW said: Chisel is the manufacturers recommended method - they create a weak point in the sinks to allow for this. The sink material isn’t tough If the hole is basically pre formed with only a glaze skin over the hole then the Chisle method has merit but of course the hole has then to go where put by manufacturer.
June 30, 20188 yr Author 4 hours ago, PeterW said: Chisel is the manufacturers recommended method - they create a weak point in the sinks to allow for this. The sink material isn’t tough enough in the centre to take a drill bit and it may wander and a grit edge hole saw will skip on the glaze and scratch it ... I was thinking to gently clamp a bit of timber underneath to centre the pilot of the hole saw and stop it wandering.
June 30, 20188 yr 1 minute ago, Onoff said: I was thinking to gently clamp a bit of timber underneath to centre the pilot of the hole saw and stop it wandering. Prob is, your brain says use the diamond tipped drill. You convince yourself this is right. Wrong. The drill bit causes the glaze to shell off away from the hole edge and ruins the sink. Do as the manufacturers say and hit it out. Sharp, single taps almost a clout and bingo. It'll snap clean out. 6 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said: If the hole is basically pre formed with only a glaze skin over the hole then the Chisle method has merit but of course the hole has then to go where put by manufacturer. They kind of put it where it needs to go . I foubd a pin drift ( a flat faced centre punch ) the best. You won't smash the sink it's porcelain. If you cut with a holesaw you'll regret it. If you were supposed to cut with one the manufacturer would say so. They don't.
July 1, 20188 yr 10 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: They kind of put it where it needs to go There you go thinking in straight lines again! If they put it where it needs to go why do they make you uncover it? Is it about size or could it be, for instance, to give the freedom to go elsewhere or, as on our kitchen sink, to have an addional tap for filtered water.
July 1, 20188 yr Author 8 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said: There you go thinking in straight lines again! If they put it where it needs to go why do they make you uncover it? Is it about size or could it be, for instance, to give the freedom to go elsewhere or, as on our kitchen sink, to have an addional tap for filtered water. Is the sink maybe reversible. As in drainer on right or left. Would that mean two overflows? Edited July 1, 20188 yr by Onoff
July 1, 20188 yr 37 minutes ago, Onoff said: Is the sink maybe reversible. As in drainer on right or left. Would that mean two overflows? Don’t the overflows tend to be on the side of reversible sinks?
July 1, 20188 yr 2 hours ago, Onoff said: Is the sink maybe reversible. As in drainer on right or left. Would that mean two overflows? Reversible ones are why the knock out isn't done, but is half done both sides. Normally it's a centralised overflow so maters not which side the drainer is.
July 1, 20188 yr Author 24 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Reversible ones are why the knock out isn't done, but is half done both sides. Normally it's a centralised overflow so maters not which side the drainer is. Overflow only on one side with this so if you turned the sink through 180deg the overflow would be at the front. CT1 or Sikaflex EBT or standard silicon to bed this into the worktop as it doesn't have any clips? Cheers
July 2, 20188 yr Author @Nickfromwales, sorry, should have tagged you on this question: CT1 or Sikaflex EBT or standard silicon to bed this into the worktop as it doesn't have any clips? Cheers
July 2, 20188 yr Clear CT1 to bed it in for fixing purposes, and wipe back with the baby wipes. Have a look at the casting and see if the shadow gap isn't excessive, if it is then wipe a bit deeper and leave to dry. Then finish with a bead of ( cosmetic ) white silicone which can be refreshed when necessary.
July 2, 20188 yr Author Sink all in. Mid knocking hole etc. Done with a flat bottomed punch. Said he had to just grow some and go for it! Edited July 2, 20188 yr by Onoff
July 3, 20188 yr Just read this as I am about to fit my sink, takes a bit of guts to hit a new expensive sink with a hammer ?. But here goes !,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
July 3, 20188 yr Author 12 minutes ago, joe90 said: Just read this as I am about to fit my sink, takes a bit of guts to hit a new expensive sink with a hammer ?. But here goes !,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, As least you know it can be done like they say! I'd hit the weak point with the punch NOT the hammer! Edited July 3, 20188 yr by Onoff
July 3, 20188 yr Hubby did this in the last house. Just hammered it out. Guess he was expecting me to whip the credit card out if it got buggered ?
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