lizzie Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 13 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Actually there is one Q before I sign off: my old folks' recently had a new simple small washbasin replacement, but no pedestal. not one there before either. looks nasty all pipes showing etc. How can I fit one to be correct heightwise if basin was just plonked into same spot old one was, let alone the right curve to fit the underside-? I had that in another place. I got carpenter to make a boxing in mdf and we painted it same as wall, it looked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted December 23, 2018 Author Share Posted December 23, 2018 That's defo a suggestion.. but its their only bathroom (makes me angry they'd likely have paid whoever fitted basin to have this fitted too.. but chap just either didn't bother as not one before, or persuaded my easily-led folks it 'couldn't be done'/ or 'not one before'.. or 'well you didn't ask for one') so mdf as best I could do wouldn't be quite up to par. I defo need to fit a porcelain pedestal for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Chaps- happy new year! kitchen 90% done: lino.. will be pro job I've decided: those door frame in-outs/ 1 mistake & I'd mess up. Then plinths/ lastly skirting. The improvement of living cooker side is massive. Sink/ tops & tap's WAY better than expected too- the best bits. Room unfortunately seems just as cold as before, but, it was worth trying.. & great trial for upstairs job (spring). As cold's back top of agenda, I'm doing prep/ a new thread re. my main room floor. Mods- could it be moved to a more popular section I wonder? I seem to not be getting any replies, here.. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/8149-cold-stone-cottage-orig-floor-insulate/ Thanks, zoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 From memory you have open doorways? To a draughty lobby? Won't matter if you've 300mm of pir on the walls floor and ceiling! Gotta stop the draughts and heat loss points elsewhere. Any heating in the kitchen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 4, 2019 Author Share Posted January 4, 2019 Hi Onoff- Ive put in VG back door seals, so no draughts now. We disagree on PIR (my eg was a BIG, double-fullwidth-doored, both open, cold december evening.. log chap self built this separate garage & main huge house adjacent.. one rad on medium only, & just one step inside = you just felt the warm insulation like a comfort blanket): if I had 300mm PIR in walls & ceiling, despite the back door close to kitchen, it'd be massively different & I say till the cows come home: its cold UP from the floor no1 (+ yes via walls) I'm sure, as my ankles feel cold 1st. Anyway.. I have a decent 'leccy slimline wall heater in kitchen/ cvan bang out heat. If its very cold, it flat out for 2 hours & I'm 3m away.. my hands, nose, legs remain a bit cold. Only way I can get warm is a fan heater on too, firing at me/ a godsend. A huge ammount of heat to combat/ get the better of the cold in room. The same in big main room, but magnified: a HUGE maxed 2hr wallop from stove just to get room medium-warm then keep this going at max a must or cold wins. A battle I rarely win to be honest & retire 9.30 (couches, & corners of room always remain cold) & a huge no. of logs per night. not fun. I need to have something done/ anything now Im desperate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) Edit: Post moved to other thread. Edited January 4, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 Lino£.. 170 pro quote, with me doing the hardboard layer prep including removing old lino.. so £200 lets call it. Ouch. Not expecting that. I can't see the problem on the face of it, of laying new lino over the existing stuff.. sure the edges lift/ wibble a bit but surely I can grab-glue these down > lay new lino on? (the pro guy wasn't too happy with the idea, but hasn't seen the kitchen tho, & said it is done occasionally). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 9 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Lino£.. 170 pro quote, with me doing the hardboard layer prep including removing old lino.. so £200 lets call it. Ouch. Not expecting that. I can't see the problem on the face of it, of laying new lino over the existing stuff.. sure the edges lift/ wibble a bit but surely I can grab-glue these down > lay new lino on? (the pro guy wasn't too happy with the idea, but hasn't seen the kitchen tho, & said it is done occasionally). Had my M&Ds kitchen and bathroom lino'd a while back. The carpet shop fitted straight over the cracked old bitumen tiles. No underlay etc. Though they advised proper prep and underlay D wanted the cheapest job and it'll v.likely outlast him anway. That pic of mine a couple of pages back with the grey tiles. They're self adhesive, cheapest of the cheap. SWMBO laid them straight onto the well scrubbed, cleaned and dried existing lino. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Maybe you could lay self adhesive tiles yourself @zoothorn? Straight on top of the existing lino? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Something like this maybe if not square tiles. https://www.diy.com/departments/self-adhesive-natural-wood-effect-vinyl-plank-0-83m-pack/307355_BQ.prd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 I got mine from here https://www.factory-direct-flooring.co.uk/vinyl-flooring There is plenty there that would give you your flooring for less. I paid about £10sqm for mine but that was to go all through my house. Plenty of choice that is cheaper or pricier but you could certainly get something much less than £200 even allowing for a £30 delivery charge. I believe they are part of one of the big high street chains Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 Ah ok useful ideas.. I had thought of getting one big 4x4m piece from my lino chap, maybe £18 per m. Would doing it this way likely be preferable/ a step up in quality & finish from the 'tiles' method? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 Crikey 4x4m of the self adhesive lino works out at £132 it seems using their calculator, with me bodging it too! I think maybe then me prep old lino/ get my guy to lay new onto it pro @ £170 might be the way to go. Very grateful for ideas & links tho.. I'll do more sums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Our grey ones were from Wilko. Can't remember the price. The £ shops sometimes do 4 tiles for £1. Limited colour choice but cheapskates can't always be choosy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 Its funny I went out to do the job for a v. tight budget, & having done just that it looks so good that a budget lino job to finish.. just won't do at all! I think if 16sqM of self-done stuff would be £100 (if £6/ M offer stuff).. then for £70 extra to get my chap in who did my bathroom & UT well, seems the sensible route. These damn GU10 hood halogen bulbs.. one already popped & replacing for led warm '35w' white ones (tho still pretty cold I find) I found the terminals all mangled & charred. Hopeless flawed design. I went for too cheap a hood, its flimsy too. Looks pretty good tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 What am I meant to put between worktop & tiles, the gap here? I put in white silicone but maybe wrong as all crumbs, bits etc are getting stuck to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 On 07/01/2019 at 13:27, zoothorn said: Its funny I went out to do the job for a v. tight budget, & having done just that it looks so good that a budget lino job to finish.. just won't do at all! I think if 16sqM of self-done stuff would be £100 (if £6/ M offer stuff).. then for £70 extra to get my chap in who did my bathroom & UT well, seems the sensible route. These damn GU10 hood halogen bulbs.. one already popped & replacing for led warm '35w' white ones (tho still pretty cold I find) I found the terminals all mangled & charred. Hopeless flawed design. I went for too cheap a hood, its flimsy too. Looks pretty good tho. You could probably put small circles of theatre light colouring on those if needed, or use the paint-on stuff; they run cool. F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 16, 2019 Author Share Posted January 16, 2019 On 10/01/2019 at 16:59, Ferdinand said: You could probably put small circles of theatre light colouring on those if needed, or use the paint-on stuff; they run cool. F I like the idea of paint on.. they run cool enough to touch easily, just glary & white-cold even 'warm white'. Can someone help re. skirting. I went to measure up for my internal mitre (1st Ive ever tried).. & my corner measures -less- than 45*. Say 40*. So with my bevel I push into corner > find the midpoint > go to my chopsaw.. & of course it doesn't seem to go past 45* (in order for me to get the blade over, past the 45* to achieve the cut angle).. so I cant think how to cut these 2 "less-than-45*" sections to meet. Am I p*ssing in the wind here.. or being an ape? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 16, 2019 Share Posted January 16, 2019 24 minutes ago, zoothorn said: I like the idea of paint on.. they run cool enough to touch easily, just glary & white-cold even 'warm white'. Can someone help re. skirting. I went to measure up for my internal mitre (1st Ive ever tried).. & my corner measures -less- than 45*. Say 40*. So with my bevel I push into corner > find the midpoint > go to my chopsaw.. & of course it doesn't seem to go past 45* (in order for me to get the blade over, past the 45* to achieve the cut angle).. so I cant think how to cut these 2 "less-than-45*" sections to meet. Am I p*ssing in the wind here.. or being an ape? Not really my area, but don't you put a wedge of a known angle in to move it back onto the scale? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 16, 2019 Author Share Posted January 16, 2019 Not quite sure what you mean by 'onto the scale' Ferdinand. Ive been mulling this over.. & just can't figure it out. It seems for a wall corner angle of 80* (so just less than square) I need two corner skiting sections to mitre-meet cut @ 40*. P'easy right? But regular mitre saws go from 90* to 45*, in either blade config: tilted or swivelled (90* being in regular up-down & squared off L to R mode). But I need it to go further to 40* both swivelled for my test old batten cut, & actual cut blade tilted. So it can't be done. Unless Im being thick. Any carpenters out there? this has got to be a page 1 connundrum. Ive googled anything relative, no results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Can someone help me out on my skirting? taken me most of a week to fit 5 pieces!! I have my (MDF) skirting sections on, fixed by recessed screws. What do I fill my c'sunk screws with? I need something that'll work on metal (presumably) as well as mdf, that'll set hard to sand & paint. As as best I tried including accurate mitre angle cuts, there's no way I can get each mitre joints to meet well enough to glue. It was nigh on impossible to chopsaw at a 45* angle without a slight curve to the cut edge.. let alone getting each piece mm perfect length relative to each other. So the mitre joint special 2x glue stuff is redundent. I was thinking of whacking wood glue into the gaps.. but worried about the mdf 'raw' edges expanding. What do i do with these gaps? I'm forgetting joining perfectly, it was never going to happen.. so I just now want to seal these fragile edges to stop them expanding with my damp atmosphere over time. I'm stupid buying mdf.. totally wrong material for the job, clearly -only- pine it should ever be. Ive no idea why profiled MDF is FS for skirting at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 @Onoff can you explain those plinth turbo clip things? New lino & skirting done (pics to follow) Im onto the plinths/ one of my final stages. So its what stuff to buy, & how to fix them onto cabinet chipboard 'edges'. A reminder of what I have to go with (older pic).. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 @zoothorn, you need to cut the plinths just right height wise. I cut mine a bit tight. Broke a bloody nail getting these pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 So the clips: are they just a spring then, that squashes the plinth between floor & cab above-? And do I have to use specific plinth-stuff, bc of the thickness to use the clips maybe, or what can be used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 (edited) 22 minutes ago, zoothorn said: So the clips: are they just a spring then, that squashes the plinth between floor & cab above-? YES Quote And do I have to use specific plinth-stuff, bc of the thickness to use the clips maybe, or what can be used? THEY HAVE A COUPLE OF SHARP POINTY PRONGS THAT EASILY TAP INTO CHIPBOARD. AS I SAID BEFORE YOU COULD BUY ONE V GRADE T&G CHIPBOARD FLOORBOARD AND RIP INTO STRIPS. PAINT BLACK? As I think I said before I've a bunch of magnetic catches that might work I was going to use for the removeable bath panels but with the tiles they're too heavy. You're welcome to them. Tbh they're getting in the way. These: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Access-Panel-DIY-Kit-Make-Your-Own-Any-Size-Tiled-Control-Hatchmu1/1762505231? PM your address and they're yours. Edited January 22, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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