Jump to content

Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.


Recommended Posts

So the window reveal:

 

60mm cavity block wall that the wind howled up!

 

20161108_221000

 

27mm insulated pb (Gyproc from Travis Perkins) cut to fit. Sides support the top:

 

20161108_221219

 

20161108_221208

 

Foamed:

 

20161112_140121

 

Foam trimmed, mortar brought up level. Spray glue on the reveal and strips of DPM:

 

20161113_144625

 

DPM on all 4 faces:

 

20161113_145031

 

Go mad with Sikaflex EBT around the edges, low expansion foam in the middle:

 

20161116_183831

 

Bottom bit weighted down. Sikaflex bead against widow frame and pb pushes onto it:

 

2016-11-16_06-05-47

 

Top and sides wedged temporarily:

 

20161117_172844

 

Set:

 

20161120_162607

 

Small child bribed into marking the pb from the inside:

 

20161120_194128

 

20161120_194308

 

Sorted:

 

20161120_213903

 

Edit: Note in some areas the centres are more than 400mm.

 

Where the pir is a bit loose between studs I used expanding foam to fill any gaps.

Edited by Onoff
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I should add that I only used 27mm insulated pb as anything more (plus tiles) would have encroached too much on the window frame.

 

I also have no cavity closers to speak of. The cavities up the side of the window appear to have had a piece of expanding foam folded into a "V", wedged into the cavity and rendered over.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant onoff.. very tidy job indeed! lots of help for me there, I'll use these as a guide- appreciated.

 

How do you get the green pb (is this gyproc, from TP?) to not show any nail holes though.. assuming they're @ the 400mm baton lines/ I assume you don't need to plaster onto that, do you?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Brilliant onoff.. very tidy job indeed! lots of help for me there, I'll use these as a guide- appreciated.

 

How do you get the green pb (is this gyproc, from TP?) to not show any nail holes though.. assuming they're @ the 400mm baton lines/ I assume you don't need to plaster onto that, do you?

 

I hadn't screwed it yet in that pic! :)

 

 

20170102_234906

 

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see! muppet me.. told you I was a novice!

 

Ok tell me why we need such humungous screws? those torx monsters look like a similar thimg to a 'frame fixing screw', which I used to fix a 1" door frame I whipped up. These are still big buggers @ 4", going in 3" to the wall but use rawl plug things which sit in the batten/ frame as well as the wall. But those torx scare me..

 

Is there any reason for such a massive screw to just fix battens to wall? or, are they designed to be bigger, in order to go w'out rawl plugs-? Is it a Q of using so many as will likely be needed for all the battens, that my frame-screw idea will just be alot costlier in £ & time..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

I see! muppet me.. told you I was a novice!

 

Ok tell me why we need such humungous screws? those torx monsters look like a similar thimg to a 'frame fixing screw', which I used to fix a 1" door frame I whipped up. These are still big buggers @ 4", going in 3" to the wall but use rawl plug things which sit in the batten/ frame as well as the wall. But those torx scare me..

 

Is there any reason for such a massive screw to just fix battens to wall? or, are they designed to be bigger, in order to go w'out rawl plugs-? Is it a Q of using so many as will likely be needed for all the battens, that my frame-screw idea will just be alot costlier in £ & time..

 

The concrete screws are quicker to use than rawl lugs plus a normal screw, as you do not need to mess around etc. With a multi material drill such as these Bosch items, you can drill through the wood into the brick in one go. After the first 268 screws, you understand the difference in not jug fling drills, and the big time saving,

 

The concrete screws can be had for perhaps 10-15p each, but are VERY expensive at DIY sheds, Screwfix aren’t too bad for those price wise, but others will know of good online sources.

 

The concrete screw self taps into the sides of the hole you have drilled without the need to mess about exposing your hole to insert the plug. One warning - the hole for the concrete screw needs to be exactly the right size ... a 6.5mm drill instead of say a 6mm drill will lose the grip. Try not to choose ones that need a difficult size drill.

 

@Onoff has chosen 100mm screws for the worst case, which is 30mm+ required in the wall, and two battens. Personally I might have used 90mm. Nothing to stop you having a couple of lengths.

 

Also, just get a check from someone else on the distance between the screws on the board ... you may not need quite that many! I don’t know the approved no off the top of my head but that looks like slight overkill.

 

F

 

jug fling = juggling, but the new word is better.

Edited by Ferdinand
Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

I see! muppet me.. told you I was a novice!

 

 

So get you project done, and it will no longer be the case :ph34r:.

 

Compare this with page 1 of the thread, and your questions are already far more focused.

 

kermit-poster-eats-flies.jpg.d773738de09b195b4db7f529c244e412.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha I like that..

 

Ok what size concrete screws then, for 1" batten + 9mm pb ? & regarding drills: can you tell me if mine are ok here? The bosch is a swiss VG one, with a hammer whatnot (a guy gave me/ was binning at a recycle dump!) & a 12v old makita.

 

New worktop temp in place.. already a relief to rid the old horrorshow.

 

What interval distance between batten fixings as a ~basic rule?

 

 

 

 

001.JPG

Edited by zoothorn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Haha I like that..

 

Ok what size concrete screws then, for 1" batten + 9mm pb ? & regarding drills: can you tell me if mine are ok here? The bosch is a swiss VG one, with a hammer whatnot (a guy gave me/ was binning at a recycle dump!). New worktop temp in place.. already a relief to rid the old horrorshow..

 

What interval distance between batten fixings as a ~basic rule?

 

 

 

 

001.JPG

 

 

Not being clear. Sorry.

 

I meant drill bits, not the drill. The link is to a set of 4 bits that were recommended and I have found to be good that can drill wood and brick. £7.99 from Screwfix.

 

 

10 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

that possible?

 

Probably not, but that wouldn’t stop him. There’s a photo somewhere.

 

 

Edited by Ferdinand
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Ferdinand said:

 

Probably not, but that wouldn’t stop him. There’s a photo somewhere.

 

Here you go. My Google-Fu is strong today. A dedicated try-anything-once experimenter - admirable. Especially the willingness to talk about it.

 

 

SAM_7467_zpse36867d7.jpg

 

SAM_7465_zps592abc30.jpg

 

SAM_7424_zps616a81ba.jpg

Edited by Ferdinand
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's an interesting look for interior.. sort of a modern f'arty shoreditch lunar or something.

 

Drill bits.. ah ok! that's important to get the right size for the fixing. Once I know what size screws & I'll nip in & get + roof batten.. & get cracking today on this.

 

very grateful chaps- zootH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ferdinand said:

 

Was it you that insulated an entire building with expanding foam rather than sheets of insulation?

 

Ah, you mean the shed? Might have done..... :ph34r:

 

To be fair only 1 1/2 walls and the floor...

Edited by Onoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 23/06/2018 at 18:26, Ferdinand said:


?

 

 

Ferdinand- thx for drill bits link.. buying from screwfix today > TP for battens & concrete screws. So I'm off running on this job today.

 

Now I have old worktop off, I see spaces behind the units.. but.. interrupted by a few unit 'walls' perpendicular to the back walls. How do I negotiate a C'tex job around these? I assume I need to do behind units too or cold will whack in here.. not just down to worktop?

 

Is there a calculator to tell how much C'tex stuff, and PB I need?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

Ferdinand- thx for drill bits link.. buying from screwfix today > TP for battens & concrete screws. So I'm off running on this job today.

 

Now I have old worktop off, I see spaces behind the units.. but.. interrupted by a few unit 'walls' perpendicular to the back walls. How do I negotiate a C'tex job around these? I assume I need to do behind units too or cold will whack in here.. not just down to worktop?

 

Is there a calculator to tell how much C'tex stuff, and PB I need?

 

Celotex normally comes in 2400x1200 sheets. You need to space your battens carefully so the edges of 1200mm plasterboard sit on the centre line of a batten where 2 boards meet. Also need to ensure support at the internal corners.

 

ANY gaps in the wall, round pipes, wastes, in the brick / blockwork need filling.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bloomin torx heads.. Im rifling thru my bits & found only one/ a fluke if it fits the 80mm screwfix concrete screws I'd planned to buy in town.

 

Are these type of screws only available in torx head? whats the deal with torx anyway..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Bloomin torx heads.. Im rifling thru my bits & found only one/ a fluke if it fits the 80mm screwfix concrete screws I'd planned to buy in town.

 

Are these type of screws only available in torx head? whats the deal with torx anyway..

 

Not sure but you may well get a bit in each box. Check ?.

 

Or buy a set from SAf.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You get a little black T30 bit in each box:

 

20180717_161345

 

I use these bits in preference:

 

20180717_161453

 

In one of these:

 

20180717_161531

 

If you're going to get serious about your refurb then imo a decent cordless drill/driver and compatible impact gun will be invaluable. Many on here like Makita 18V LXT stuff. You can add cordless saws, grinders etc later on and they'll all share the same battery. You COULD tbh for this just use a 230V mains drill with the impact bit in. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice little makita. mine's an oldie, but japan & huage, only 12v.. but is a fine thing. might put a pic up of me shovel..

 

Onoff- you mean you get a bit foc in with the screwfix torx concrete screws x100? that would be great.

 

Gonna crack on with this tmrw- off work ill with major nerve pain pills/ no router stuff for me: so slow kitchen work about all i can manage & no safety stuff to be concerned with like up me ladder, just drill work. as I float around kitchen..

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Onoff- you mean you get a bit foc in with the screwfix torx concrete screws x100? that would be great.

 

Yep, you get the little T30 but you'll need to put it in a standard magnetic holder shown next to it:

 

2018-07-17_10-02-00

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...