zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Sorry onoff.. I'm still unsure what the clamp is for, I see the small square of timber, & the clamp pushing it into the front face of the pB. But I can't establish what its doing/ what it's for to aid the cut. Im sure it'll be of use (as these 2 cuts are tricky/ I'm mulling over/ weighing up how to do them.. saw 1st??) as your ideas all are.. be grateful if you could clarify! call it a codeine fug if you will! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Ive got the vertical cut done, so maybe this complicates the other 2 cuts I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 (edited) 14 hours ago, Onoff said: Just an aid if you're on your own so it doesn't all wobble or suddenly break when there's only a piddly bit left to cut. Understand the principle of this. but I still can't see what the clamped timber is doing exactly.. or: the cut line you refer to: has this been done already on your fag packet > then clamp over this you mean? or is it to aid the 1st rough cut? I think I'll have to come back to this, I can't afford to bodge this up. (or if anyone can shed light, or, think of another way to do these 2 cuts Id be grateful). thanks alot- zootH Edited August 14, 2018 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Think about it. You're on your own and you've a relatively big bit of pb to remove. You've cut the vertical. The pb section stays in place. You cut the bottom - the pb stays in place. So you now, maybe on steps start cutting the top. There comes a point when the piece will "go" as all three sides are cut. There's a chance the whole piece will fall out and crash to the floor. Put clamps across the ends of the horizontal cut lines and it helps keep the piece in position so you can get down the ladder and get a better grip on the removed section in order to remove it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 (edited) So the clamps keep the section to be cut out in place until you are ready to remove it carefully, and not when the final cut allows its bid for freedom that could damage the PB? Have to admit, I didn’t get what the clamps were for either lol. Edited August 14, 2018 by newhome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 The principle of having help at this bid for freedom stage I understand. It would be helpful, I defo agree. I'm still not getting the difference between having the clamps on, & not. The clamps aren't clamping one piece of PB to another, so they're not keeping anything in place. Afaict they're clamping a piece of timber to the front, which I can't establish if its doing something, or just spreading the clamp point pressure. The only thing Im thinking of now, is that the backs/ the long protruding part of the clamp is being used as a rest, to keep the whole piece in place.. but that doesn't seem up to onoff standard I must admit.. that's zoothorn on codeine standard. I think I might have to go a different route! I think Ive exhausted your every explanation onoff! can you think of another way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 (edited) 6 minutes ago, zoothorn said: The only thing Im thinking of now, is that the backs/ the long protruding part of the clamp is being used as a rest, to keep the whole piece in place.. but that doesn't seem up to onoff standard I must admit.. that's zoothorn on codeine standard. Exactly that. Actually better with bits of wood. Can't think of another explanation. Edited August 14, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 21 minutes ago, newhome said: So the clamps keep the section to be cut out in place until you are ready to remove it carefully, and not when the final cut allows its bid for freedom that could damage the PB? Have to admit, I didn’t get what the clamps were for either lol. Yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 8 minutes ago, Onoff said: Yep. Would be wibbly wobbly without too I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 7 minutes ago, newhome said: Would be wibbly wobbly without too I guess. I thought it'd make it a bit easier for a newbie at this. Wishing I'd shut up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Its no problem to come back to this later, maybe it'll emerge from my haze! not totally happy I'm on board just yet still.. sorry onoff! Ok pb3 (next/ last of this wall). What Ive got is a cable running to outside (an extension reel under roof in woodstore- I use nearby for one circ saw, router etc.. or lawnmower/ one thing- no major load: damn handy) which Ive tucked in the C'tex [below] > then out near the double socket to be neat, & twds LH edge of pb3 so just nip a bit away here. Is this ok? Am I going pB3 LH edge taper, RH straight cut? or taper on the other side where it meets the wall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 F***K me that's DANGEROUS! If you bury that in the Celotex and board over only YOU will know it's there! Cabling should run in safe zones not diagonal just below the surface like that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Why is that dangerous? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 2 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Why is that dangerous? Because some poor idiot in the future might drill through where they think it's safe and DIE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Google "cable safe zones" the same image will come up, blue/green bands on yellow walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Ah ok. Then I'm happy where it is.. there's nothing you could drill into near here anyway/ you can't use the studs, so you'd just never likely do so. I'll just make a note of it- it'll be fine for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Can you just help with pb3, which way to put.. the Q is valid: if I go taper L edge, it meets another taper edge of pb2 yes.. but not easy to mark the pB to get a good cut/ fit.. unlike if I go taper R edge which means I can just offer up a new pB & mark top & btm points/ cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Sorry back to this.. is this right onoff: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 So back to the clamps as opposed to killing the next occupant... This picture is your PB (the large rectangle) and a big chunk to cut out (the smaller rectangle). Once the bottom cut is made you clamp across the cut numbered 1. Once you start the top cut do the same where it’s numbered 2. 2 bits of vertical wood either side of the PB and clamped as per @Onoff‘s diagram here: What will it do? It will hold the massive chunk in place until you’ve finished cutting and are ready to remove it carefully. If you don’t clamp it, it will fall to the ground heavily or worse rip some of the PB away in the final cut edge as the weight pulls it apart. And remember you are doing this to roughly remove the big chunk to start with a couple of inches short of the proper line. Dotted line in @Onoff‘s diagram. Doing the precision cut (solid trim line in @Onoff‘s diagram) comes later once the big chunk is away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 4 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Sorry back to this.. is this right onoff: See above. Put the clamps on when you’ve cut the relevant bit to hold it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Ok so my clamps pic is wrong then! So the clamps span across the 'rough cut' line -AFTER- its been made!? if so- bingo! I had no idea the clamped ditties weren't actually facilitating the cut s'how (then my clamp back rest-on idea to confuse matters must be total bllx then!). Right must clear head. Thanks! now I can finish it today. If I can just cut & pin pb3 on, I'll call it finished for the week. So last Q is this: which taper edge do I go with on pb3? & if LHS, how do I best mark/ get the pB's RH edge to fit the wall-? much appreciated- zootH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Yep clamps just to hold the rough cut lines together after cutting. Put the second one on quickly though before you get too far across. Can't help with the taper, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 PB3: Measure horizintally from pb2 at a few different points up the height of the board, say every foot. Transfer those measurements to pb3 from the left hand tapered edge of pb3. "Join the dots", cut and fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 Yup roger that onoff.. so just confirm will you for a muppet: you say go taper edge pb2 meets taper edge pb3? Can you see tho how much easier it would be, to use the other side of pb3? I can get a much more accurate fit most probably. is this just a no-no? Anyway look here.. closing in on codeine+beer o'clock for the week me.. one more to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 2 hours ago, Onoff said: Because some poor idiot in the future might drill through where they think it's safe and DIE. But this idiot severed through the mains cable with his 'leccy hedge trimmer tho last month.. & nothing happened. IT just went dead, not the idiot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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