Jump to content

Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.


Recommended Posts

I did unscrew them, but can't determine if the wires are long enough.. it looks like there's some 'slack' available, maybe.

 

What I need to know is if I can leave this for now, & crack on with the 2 bits of pb3 (above & below window), with pb2 just 'pinned' in its final place. Then take off pb2 later & do the socket biz. If I don't have enough wire I'll have to re-place the socket(s) higher I guess. That's quite a job for me.

 

Maybe I need an electrician.. but just for an hr's work/ unlikely any will be available being busiest time of year you see.

003.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the power OFF!

 

Will the face plates unscrew and then still connected pull forward the depth of the new batten + the pb?

 

Sometimes you might find you are prevented from doing this by the fly lead, that is the green/yellow earth lead that goes from the brass terminal in the corner of the back box to the earth terminal on the face plate. Doesn't look like there is one on yours.

 

If there isn't enough slack you will have to extend the cables.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We could talk you through extending wires if necessary like this with crimps as shown or even Wago blocks at a push.

 

Photo0239.thumb.jpg.90c7b6ff4626f2dfc0f19e58e67eae31.jpg

 

PA270004.thumb.jpg.4b9b2b42f0b3fe3eba8c41fa88a181ec.jpg

 

Just not sure if doing so will send me over the edge! :)

 

Let's hope you don't have to. 

 

A big difference is all the above was done with the proper crimps etc by somebody competent & tested after with the proper kit.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

I did unscrew them, but can't determine if the wires are long enough.. it looks like there's some 'slack' available, maybe.

 

What I need to know is if I can leave this for now, & crack on with the 2 bits of pb3 (above & below window), with pb2 just 'pinned' in its final place. Then take off pb2 later & do the socket biz. If I don't have enough wire I'll have to re-place the socket(s) higher I guess. That's quite a job for me.

 

Maybe I need an electrician.. but just for an hr's work/ unlikely any will be available being busiest time of year you see.

003.JPG

Can't you (with power OFF) have a tug at the wires going into the wall and see how far you can gently pull out any slack. Often there will be plenty ...

Edited by Tennentslager
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Understood onoff. Actually as I said unlike all this batten/ PB stuff, I've experience with electrics. I put in a shower, built amps with 500v flying about.. so this is perfectly easy (just the stiff HD cable stuff & tight conditions will p*ss me off).. if I need to. I'll cross this wee bridge in a bit too, bc..

 

At the mo Ive a more prior pressing issue. My 1st major plonker bodge up, I think. I thought pb2 would be the RHS one, with 2 'pieces' above/ below the window 'completing' the PB wall as pb3. Buggerit. Ive done the battens ALL from L to R. So my next 1200 junction, is along from the edge of pb1.. across the window.. & 14" on a bit. Ive marked the (new) pb2, but its such a BIG 'C' shape (only 14" 'width' for most of the H) that it will inneviatably snap getting just upright. Unless I make serious braces of 3x maybe.. but then it'll be barely liftable/ too heavy.

 

This is going to be a slow job. A whole day & only 1 pB done. I'm aiming to get these 3/ this wall done for wed AM if I can (even if pb3 covers the sockets for now, if it ca that isn be then removed). Then I'm off for surgery (v .minor) wed PM for a few days, my folks I'm having to help me out with/ will be here, hence need to put the 2 units back this side > & new top on.. albeit in a very 'plonk/ plonk' temporary way (but functional/ kitchen "somewhat normal" again).

 

Thanks chaps- zootH.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Tennent'sLager.. yes will do this tmrw. There looks to be slack.. but I'd think needed to twist the damn plate 90*, ie to install those HD wires in the 1st place. Its going to be a week before I can get any extentions from s'where anyway now, should I be able to extend ok..

 

If none, bar 1 unsuitable type, on ebay then gotta be not so readily available.

 

One place I went into suggested, him being an ex-spark, tinstead to surface mount by attatching down the stud > then out to a plate on the pb front. I said I didn't have knowledge enough to agree this a good plan, but thx etc/ put it to you guys/ this forum who I mentioned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's an idea (cut later) but how? I could barely get behind to mark cos it was so big a "C".. I had to squash my head between the pB & window to reach to mark/ actually I had to do 1/2 of it outside thru the top window!

 

Cheap as chips that last one's a good site. Ok wilol guage the wire length 1st thing tmrw & order if enough wire.

 

I'm still up a gum tree re. this extreme "C" pb2. Has the idea of splitting it into 3 (in obvious places) got legs?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

That's an idea (cut later) but how? I could barely get behind to mark cos it was so big a "C".. I had to squash my head between the pB & window to reach to mark/ actually I had to do 1/2 of it outside thru the top window!

 

Cheap as chips that last one's a good site. Ok wilol guage the wire length 1st thing tmrw & order if enough wire.

 

I'm still up a gum tree re. this extreme "C" pb2. Has the idea of splitting it into 3 (in obvious places) got legs?

 

 

 

Just screw the board on. Do the vertical cut first but allow an inch or two over. Cut the bottom, again an inch over again. Stick a clamp at the start of the cut. Cut the top again put a clamp at the start of the cut. Trim up neatly once the big awkward lump is out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Ok understand where clamp go. b but dunnae know what clamp for. ugh.

 

Just an aid if you're on your own so it doesn't all wobble or suddenly break when there's only a piddly bit left to cut. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hang on Im still not on board. do you mean use a straight edge, clamped on..? Im trying to figure out what your clamps are for exactly. Im sure its a good idea.. anyway I'm about to put up the whole sheet- Ive cut the vertical line, hoping it won't break here. damn heavy these twisting round/ up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Hang on Im still not on board. do you mean use a straight edge, clamped on..? Im trying to figure out what your clamps are for exactly. Im sure its a good idea.. anyway I'm about to put up the whole sheet- Ive cut the vertical line, hoping it won't break here. damn heavy these twisting round/ up.

 

Couple of short off cuts of timber, one either side of the cut, clamped on...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Is a saw the best thing to make the rough cuts ~2" away from my 2x cuts across? got the sod up tho.. thank gawd..

004.JPG

 

Stanley knife, new blade. Take your time and you'll eventually cut through the paper the other side. Do the bottom first. Then do the top. As your doing the top you'll realise why I said to clamp the bottom cut!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...