zoothorn Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 A stanley being a fat heavier handled type w'more chutzpa I guess, craft the lighter thinner kind.. is that the difference? Cutting the RHS edge seems a much easier proposition than the slight curve on the LHS, if doing upright.. which is what I''ll go for.. dust is my biggest gripe- I loathe it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Pic 1: pushing the PB up flush to the ceiling/ top L corner.. so Ive got a 1.5 cm gap from 1/3rd way down.. onwards more or less. Its less 'vertical', but actually hits the midpoint of my battens better. No gap to ceiling. Pic 2: pushing the PB up flush with the side batten.. so Ive got a 1cm gap at midpoint.. 0.5 cm gap @ 1/3rd way down, same 1/3rd up. Its even less 'vertical' than ^, hits batten mids ~just ot. But now a 0.5 cm gap to ceiling @ its farthest point R. I'm struggling a bit more on eg2 to hit the lower batten's centre.. its morelike 2/5ths on & 3/5ths batten. eg1 is more 50/50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 (edited) 57 minutes ago, zoothorn said: A stanley being a fat heavier handled type w'more chutzpa I guess, craft the lighter thinner kind.. is that the difference? Cutting the RHS edge seems a much easier proposition than the slight curve on the LHS, if doing upright.. which is what I''ll go for.. dust is my biggest gripe- I loathe They're all known colloquially as "utility knives" I think. A "Stanley" pretty much means a heavy, metal bodied utility knife of any make as Stanley was I think the original. Generally takes this type of blade that can either be fixed or retractable. Some even allow you to select a new blade from within via a clever little mechanism. Most of the retractable ones let you set the blade only a certain distance out which can be to make cutting safer or to only cut so far in: Craft knives are generally plastic and come in two different blade widths. The blades can be extended to a few inches. They're generally scored along their length so as you blunt a blade you just snap off to a fresh edge: Tbh you can get better quality metal bodied craft knives that take the snap off blades or cheaper plastic ones that take the little blades. Cutting pb then a decent metal bodied Stanley. Cutting 25mm Celotex a craft knife. The permutations of craft knives are endless! Edited August 12, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 Don't forget the pb on the sink wall will cover most of the gap on the lhs of the board. Unless the battens on the sink wall are seriously bowed! I'd be more worried about making sure the rhs of the board hits the centre of the battens above and below the window. Any gap of 10mm or less on the left of the board could be foam filled. Then the board on the sink wall covers that up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Ah ok then I have the fatter old stanley type then- good, actually just got thru the 25mm C'tex with it. Good. What I've just thought of.. is instead of a curve, is go eg1 with one straight cut at midpoint > to top LH cnr. I just can't face this curve cut, esp on the LH edge! eg1 looks clearly better on the photo in fact. So we agree on the 1st pic. So, a slight gap in the corner of 0.5cm at worst to fill. Good thats a plan I think. I'm less nervous about starting the PB job tmrw now. Cheers zoot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Onoff said: Don't forget the pb on the sink wall will cover most of the gap on the lhs of the board. Unless the battens on the sink wall are seriously bowed! I'd be more worried about making sure the rhs of the board hits the centre of the battens above and below the window. Any gap of 10mm or less on the left of the board could be foam filled. Then the board on the sink wall covers that up. Yes good point. I had thought of this.. but one thing bodges this up: the pics show a C'tex board for the PB, but, annoyingly its a bit wider than a PB sheet. So accounting for this.. the PB will land back a bit from the centrepoint of battens, if I tuck it in flush as per the pic1. The only bonus is the C'tex is exactly one PB width wider. So I need to get this width cut off the PB @ top LH corner.. down to the edge 1/3rd way down, then hope both the gaps minimal, & I hit the battens' mids as per the C'tex template/ pic1. A bit of luck needed. Edited August 12, 2018 by zoothorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennentslager Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 You could mark the batten positions on the floor and ceiling...don't see any in your pictures Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 3 minutes ago, Tennentslager said: You could mark the batten positions on the floor and ceiling...don't see any in your pictures He was supposed to thinking about it having been told many posts ago! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 If you don't hit the batten dead centre with the pb you risk missing the batten or breaking the edge as you screw it down. If you've 45mm wide battens then that's 22.5mm either side. Your screws want to go in about 15 -20mm from the edge of the board leaving 5-10mm to the edge of the batten. If you're way off you have to then drive a screw in at an angle, sometimes even put the screw in right on the join. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 @zoothorn mark the batten positions on the ceiling / floor!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Yes he's going to mark the batten positions! I haven't trimmed the edge off yet of no1 PB. Starting tmrw. No2 PB is held up anyway due to no extension boxes in yet/ whole job's held up tbh. I need to ask about the socket cutout positions on no2 PB too.. that looks a b'stard job to get right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 1 minute ago, zoothorn said: Yes he's going to mark the batten positions! I haven't trimmed the edge off yet of no1 PB. Starting tmrw. No2 PB is held up anyway due to no extension boxes in yet/ whole job's held up tbh. I need to ask about the socket cutout positions on no2 PB too.. that looks a b'stard job to get right. Get the pb in position. So you know it's going to fit the wall. Move the pb out of the way. Unscrew the socket screws so they protrude a bit. Put the board back in position. Give it a tap with the palm of your hand roughly over where the socket is. Protruding screw heads should mark the board on the back. Position the socket over the two marks, draw round it and cut out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 4 minutes ago, zoothorn said: need to ask about the socket cutout positions on no2 PB too.. that looks a b'stard job to get right. Quick way.... put the face plate screws back in the box and screw them in til they are just proud. Line the board up and give it a good smack where you think it is and it will leave a pair of indents in the back of the board. Line up the holes with a spare back box and cut the hole for the socket ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 12, 2018 Author Share Posted August 12, 2018 Good ideas there- guess this the std way then.. ideal if I had a spare double socket tho, got that LAN single one ok to draw round so that on'es ok. cheers zootH. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 12, 2018 Share Posted August 12, 2018 56 minutes ago, zoothorn said: Good ideas there- guess this the std way then.. ideal if I had a spare double socket tho, got that LAN single one ok to draw round so that on'es ok. cheers zootH. Same ideas in fact! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 I forget... Was the plan to get the pb fitting best at the ceiling and have the 4"(?) gap down at the floor? You can pack that with off cuts and cover with a wide skirting. There are pb lifters that exist, like a small see-saw or you could make one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 Hi onoff.. yes that was my plan too: neater, & units of course will cover these offcuts nr floor. I need to cover, primarily only for mice! Whole morning to do pb1.. damn heavy & difficult alone. Not perfect, but as good as I'd hoped.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 It ain't perfect here 'n there.. needs tarting up, but probably best I could ever do for a 1st time.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 I'm a bit stumped now, as pb2 is the one with the sockets which I haven't extended yet.. so I have no way of accurately transferring the box positions > onto pb2. Midweek before in. Any ideas how? or is it not wise to do pb2/ get it on with the boxes still receeded.. have a feeling I need the extensions before I can continue the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 Got a spare box..?? Just wedge it in the gap and hit the board onto it... That is a proper tidy job though ! Well Done !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 No, alas no box Peter. I'm off to town again now to trawl places/ anywhere. Hey cheers.. quite chuffed me. Pleased with the uniformness, no odd bumps or ins/outs afaict as Id expected. Ceiling's already painted.. so immediately looks like proper progress just pb1 done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 (edited) From memory you have one flush double socket and one surface mount single switch of some description up a bit higher? I assume you need to Celotex over these sockets still i.e before you pb? On the double socket you could just back the screws out a bit. That'll mark the Celotex. Ditto the surface mount one. You need to cut the Celotex out first - doesn't matter if your a bit oversize as you can make good with low exp. foam A double socket face plate is approx 146x86 with the screw centres at 120.6mm. A single socket face plate is approx 86x86 with the screw centres at 60.3mm. You could get clever making card templates up from Cornflakes packets or "mock" back boxes from timber with panel pins sticking out at the right centres to simulate screws in order to mark your pb. Back & extension box sizes are here: 20150323152709_0_Appleby2007.pdf Edited August 13, 2018 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 Right, nowhere in town for these extensions, the place who said getting them in midweek now say not. Just read your ^ post onoff thx. I have 2 recessed into wall: one double & 1 switch-with-red-light (the surface mounted a single socket, on adjacent wall/ yet to batten/ cross that bridge later). Ok Ive got the C'tex done around sockets fine, but yet to "socket mark" the pb2. I get the idea of marking with screws out/ card template (good idea) but concerned I won't easily be able to get in to add the extensions with the cramped space I'll have. Can this be done at all, after pb2 on? What about this idea: can I not 'pin' pb2, in its correct place, say 8 screws, then crack on with pb3 (2 pieces, above & below the window), then come back to pb2 by removing it?? its a Q of whether I can undo it/ take it out, logistically.. assuming I do it nice & tight to RH wall, & ceiling, plus the adjacent pb3 two pieces tight up to it as well. I need opinions on this idea before I proceed with the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoothorn Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 If I get the pb2 on, as good as say the C'tex around the single 'socket' here, how would I then be able to 'get in' & faff bout with extending it-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newhome Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 4 minutes ago, zoothorn said: If I get the pb2 on, as good as say the C'tex around the single 'socket' here, how would I then be able to 'get in' & faff bout with extending it-? You’ll need to see how easy the sockets will be to extend without rewriring anything first I imagine. You unscrewed them to look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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