Help with kitchen renovation/ 1st house.

[Onoff]

19 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

good one onoff- I think I get the idea(..)/ recall Peter I think said somthing similar, morelike your block/ pencil idea. I like your diagrams!

 

I may be tempting fate by asking so soon.. but can I get away with -not- plaster/ skimming these PB's? I will be tiling + units hiding 3/4 of the PB area.. but still leaves some mostly near door/ immediately noticeable. (Is that basically the principle of these 2 fillers you link to-?)

 

 

 

 

If you've bought tapered edge boards you can tape and fill the joints. You'll have to get creative around the reveal as said earlier. Near the door.....let's see what gaps you end up with. Better fit = less filler. 

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, Onoff said:

 

If you've bought tapered edge boards you can tape and fill the joints. You'll have to get creative around the reveal as said earlier. Near the door.....let's see what gaps you end up with. Better fit = less filler. 

 

 

I only just saw what actually you meant by tapered edge boards today.. its so subtle as to any difference (for the uninitiated) to have been missed by me twice Ive read that post. Bugger. I ordered/ bought std 12.5mm ones today, but being delivered thurs (TP) so maybe I should try & redo??

 

Do all std PB's need full-skimming? that's a pro job I hadn't bargained for at all.

[PeterW]

You can fill and sand and then use lining paper and decent emulsion and it will cover most things. 

[zoothorn]

That's a plan Peter.. tho Ive done that stuff before & recall hating the job. Wallpaper paste iirc? Maybe I can get away with using it on just the 1/4 whole area I need. Prefer not to have to tho. alot. over & out/ till tmrw.

 

Many thanks chaps. Have faith.. & you'll (I hope) be pleased with results once all's done- Ive got alot to live up to after so much input from y'all.. I'll endeavor to live up to it with a good job, well done (well done in my world that is/ hopefully in yours too!).

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

 

 

I only just saw what actually you meant by tapered edge boards today.. its so subtle as to any difference (for the uninitiated) to have been missed by me twice Ive read that post. Bugger. I ordered/ bought std 12.5mm ones today, but being delivered thurs (TP) so maybe I should try & redo??

 

Do all std PB's need full-skimming? that's a pro job I hadn't bargained for at all.

 

Didn't I sketch what a tapered edge board looks like? And write "tapered"...with an arrow...28 July?

 

 

 

If I pm you my address can you send me some of whatever you're on?

 

[zoothorn]

[amitryptiline + codeine? I'd be arrested- I'm still in pain/ generally feeling rotten which doesn't help me, as I mentioned].

 

Yes you did, & I looked at this a few times onoff.. although I saw the taper I still couldn't make total clarity of it, because simply I'm not used to it. Its a totally new material Ive never seen before. Tbh I thought the taper was something I added with a 'taper file' (that perhaps I'd bought/ the yellow thing) ie it was fashioned rather than bought-as. To you who know & use it, the difference pings out as perfectly clear. To a novice, the difference isn't (until that is the time at which I'm actually ready to order it.. even then, its still not clear enough for me not to order std PB).

 

I could run you through wiring an amplifier, but I'd make room for you to make mistakes being a novice even after explaining xy or z once or twice. Its just being new to all this that's all, its certainly -not- that I'm not reading your great info.

 

I will just try & redo the order.. they'd likely not have loaded the wagon up yet if delivery thurs PM.

[zoothorn]

13 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

If you've bought tapered edge boards you can tape and fill the joints. You'll have to get creative around the reveal as said earlier. Near the door.....let's see what gaps you end up with. Better fit = less filler. 

 

Hi onoff- just spoke to TP - they said they don't stock tapered edge/ need to get in/ 2 weeks min..

 

so what do you recommend: stay with order as is, or wait on these? it is possible to fill & sand the joins of square-edge enough for the finish to be acceptable? I am covering most of the PB's by: units/ tops, tiles above/ up to a corner cupboard (above 'L' worktop join corner). Could I fill > sand > paper over square edged joins at all?

 

Where the wall is most/ ceiling to floor only in one spot albeit next to door, this will be ~somewhat covered too by a couple of shelves (higher) & bins (lower).

[Onoff]

9 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

Hi onoff- just spoke to TP - they said they don't stock tapered edge/ need to get in/ 2 weeks min..

 

so what do you recommend: stay with order as is, or wait on these? it is possible to fill & sand the joins of square-edge enough for the finish to be acceptable? I am covering most of the PB's by: units/ tops, tiles above/ up to a corner cupboard (above 'L' worktop join corner). Could I fill > sand > paper over square edged joins at all?

 

Where the wall is most/ ceiling to floor only in one spot albeit next to door, this will be ~somewhat covered too by a couple of shelves (higher) & bins (lower).

 

Because you don't have a depression where the boards meet,  if you taped then filled you end up with a shallow "hump". The skill is then feathering this out so it's less noticeable.

 

Sorry, I really don't know what it would end up looking like!

 

Or as Peter says fill and use lining paper but that's more faff/time etc.

 

Try it I guess if only a small area. I wonder if you should be running a bead of No Nails type stuff where the boards meet...?

 

Someone else will dive in shortly... I hope! 

[CC45]

square edge boards & skim = looks great.  Skimming isn't DIY for most - so £ required.

 

taper edge & fill = can look naff if not done well.  Filling can be DIY - along with lots of sanding.....

 

Time vs cost

 

skimming - £10/m2? + materials (not much).  prob small % of overall costs?!

[zoothorn]

Understood.. but isn't it a very skilled job, ie only real avenue is getting a pro in to do this?

 

In which case A) likely nigh on impossible for 6 months I'd bet around here, only a few around & B] just for such a small job I'd prob be last on their list 'todo'/ or refuse job maybe.

 

Ok will try the other 2 places. I have a trade account with TP you see which £really helps.

 

 

[Ferdinand]

11 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Didn't I sketch what a tapered edge board looks like? And write "tapered"...with an arrow...28 July?

 

 

 

If I pm you my address can you send me some of whatever you're on?

 

 

I’d say you more like Archie from Balamory with all this creative  experimentation.

 

I trust that Archie has a Waste Transfer License to be accepting yoghurt pots from third parties and taking them down the road in a carrier bag.

 

 

Edited August 7, 2018 by Ferdinand

[Ferdinand]

12 hours ago, zoothorn said:

That's a plan Peter.. tho Ive done that stuff before & recall hating the job. Wallpaper paste iirc? Maybe I can get away with using it on just the 1/4 whole area I need. Prefer not to have to tho. alot. over & out/ till tmrw.

 

Many thanks chaps. Have faith.. & you'll (I hope) be pleased with results once all's done- Ive got alot to live up to after so much input from y'all.. I'll endeavor to live up to it with a good job, well done (well done in my world that is/ hopefully in yours too!).

 

You could also do anything else ... tile, cork noticeboard, checker plate is one I have seen up to dado eve

 above a worktop. The sky is the l8mit.

 

But a beer fridge is essential for the Buildhub en masse inspection visit .

 

It s nearly september, so if you wanted the new skill you could do a plastering or DIY evening course.

 

F

Edited August 7, 2018 by Ferdinand

[zoothorn]

Ok good got the tapered edge PB coming thurs, instead of the std PB. Cheaper at Jewsons in fact/ stocked. Easier than I thought that!

 

Cheers zoot

 

 

 

 

 

 

[newhome]

So I've never done plasterboarding before but if I was going to try it I would have a go at taper edge, fill and sand from reading what's involved here. I've done a bit of filling and it doesn't look too bad if you get the sanding smooth. Worst case you have to cover with lining paper and emulsion but try for a decent finish with the sanding first so you can complete on your own. I know what you mean about not being able to get trades out to do small jobs which is why I have to try to do some of the things myself that take me out of my comfort zone. It's all a learning experience though and will help with the jobs you need to do in the rest of the house. 

  

Edited August 7, 2018 by newhome

[zoothorn]

Good points newhome. I'm sort of used to filling/ sanding albeit on the woodwork front.. so I've some knowledge about how 'perfect' a finish is likely needed prior to painting. Saves £alot & prob not a major headache. Good practice too for the upstairs BIG job I'll have to tackle after the winter. Its all about doing w'out pro's so far.. so ideal if I can do all the job.

[Onoff]

You'll want:

 

- self adhesive tape (T'station 61291 £3.65)

- a wide filling knife  (T'station 25000 £5.39)

 

Next day free delivery at TS over  £10 btw.

 

- joint filler  (Gyproc Easi-Fill for example). Shop around. Can get ready mixed or powder.

 

I splashed out on the Mirka sanding kit at Toolstation. It's excellent. Attached to a Hoover and is virtually dust free. Lidl occasionally do a cheapo version.

[dpmiller]

be careful, plaster dust kills vacuums.

[PeterW]

Either use Easy-Fill or Toupret filler depending on what you can get locally. 

 

Easy-Fill is good for large gaps and sets pretty quickly and sands well

[Onoff]

30 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

be careful, plaster dust kills vacuums.

 

Hasn't yet killed my 25 year old Wickes  (aka Earlex 1000) vac...

[Ferdinand]

You can also get flexible paints designed to fill tiny cracks .... Wickes have one for “walls and ceilings”, for example.

 

I think the6 are intended for plaster as it ages, but could be useful..

 

 

[zoothorn]

Omg so much more things to get/ consider. Ok thanks for links. I'm just going to get the screws/ the PB job done before I can think of all these extras.

 

One Q, is re these tapered edges: on all 4 edges? I was thinking of putting them in [] this config.. the walls either side of the window are ideal. Is that correct thinking, or have I messed that up-?

[zoothorn]

onoff am I looking at 50mm screws for my (30mm) ins PB > reveal edge battens, or longer?

 

and wasn't it 32mm for the 12.5mm PB > battens?

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

onoff am I looking at 50mm screws for my (30mm) ins PB > reveal edge battens, or longer?

 

and wasn't it 32mm for the 12.5mm PB > battens?

 

Yep & yep

[zoothorn]

Do you know what I mean by [] this way/ orientation ("portrait" I call it as Im a dericate frower.. I bet builders don't call it that) for my PB's?

[Onoff]

2 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Do you know what I mean by [] this way/ orientation ("portrait" I call it as Im a dericate frower.. I bet builders don't call it that) for my PB's?

 

I do NOW! Before I thought you'd made a typo!

 

I'd be fitting them portrait.

 

If you can find what Jewson code, on your invoice maybe, it is then you might find the manufacturer's part number. If it's:

    

01129/0

 

 then its "4TE" as in 4 tapered edges.