Pocster Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Actually I might bring a hair dryer tomorrow and completely dry out the water tracks . Easier then to see if still leaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Just now, pocster said: Actually I might bring a hair dryer tomorrow and completely dry out the water tracks . Easier then to see if still leaking And you could look at doing a new style for your own lovely locks! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Couldn’t wait so went and bought an electric fan heater . Stuck it on a ladder and pointed it at the ceiling . Most of it dried up after a few hours . Meant to rain later so tomorrow i’ll see .... ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 On 28/02/2019 at 15:31, pocster said: Not at the site. But took this photo because the gate hinges will need moving up 50mm What I do notice where the permatec goes vertical up the stone work it does look like it's fully bonded - so *perhaps* flashing isn't required ! So what happened to this gate and why does it need to be 50mm higher? And is this problem dealt with, now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 4 hours ago, Mr Punter said: And you could look at doing a new style for your own lovely locks! Are we back to merkins again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 (edited) 19 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: So what happened to this gate and why does it need to be 50mm higher? And is this problem dealt with, now? Because the pavers etc. will be higher by 50mm . Gate won’t clear them when open . Least of my problems at the moment ? Edited March 5, 2019 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 (edited) 4 minutes ago, pocster said: Because the pavers etc. will be higher by 50mm . Gate won’t clear them when open . Least of my problems at the moment ? How long are those hinge pins? Stackowashers? Edited March 5, 2019 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 1 hour ago, Ferdinand said: How long are those hinge pins? Stackowashers? Yeah I thought that . Might just make it or just short Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 do you need some drip flanges on the ceiling to isolate where it is coming from and going to ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 5 minutes ago, daiking said: do you need some drip flanges on the ceiling to isolate where it is coming from and going to ? Not sure what you mean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 2 hours ago, pocster said: Not sure what you mean A line barrier to stop the water tracking along the ceiling and making it drip off (if there are significant enough amounts). Unless you're now 100% sure the source of entry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 Bollocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 Right ! Going round in circles here So ! protected the lower part of the build and blocked the door way Now wait for rain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 The steel work is always dripping - I *assume* condensation . But is it around those windows?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 It looks like water could easily track back under this cover and really confuse things, the covers need to fold down below the top of the windows to create a drip line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 I give up ! Here we are this morning after rain - pretty much the same . Is it remotely possible it’s condensation???? ( desperate now ! ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 17 hours ago, Cpd said: It looks like water could easily track back under this cover and really confuse things, the covers need to fold down below the top of the windows to create a drip line. This is covered better now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 26 minutes ago, pocster said: I give up ! Here we are this morning after rain - pretty much the same . Is it remotely possible it’s condensation???? ( desperate now ! ) Which is lower - the corner of the light or the 'end' of the water track towards the wall? Even if it's only a mm or two, it might help indcate the 'source' of the moisture. My gut feel it that it's coming from the opening - which should be bone dry - doesn't look it in the picture? The covering of the light has to be much better than you had (I see you'd just commented) - a full sheet of OSB that is a clear 100mm overhang on each side, and then a 45x45 batten round the edges, then the DPM stapled down. This will ensure categorically there is no moisture getting in. I can't see it being condensation - it would be far more uniform over the whole ceiling. The source has to be that opening the more I think of it - the rest of the space looks nicely dry. You'll get there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 That particular window is covered like so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 Why don't you get an angle grinder and put a score ACROSS the crack line (i.e at 90degrees) - say 5mm deep and 100mm long. See if that stops the moisture tracking? And see which side it's coming from that way? Just a thought? ANy tracking moisture should stop and drip down to the floor rather than permeat across the concrete and the line of the crack? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 Just now, pocster said: That particular window is covered like so What’s confusing is underneath the up stand ( wood section ) is bone dry . its only damp half way down the initial ceiling slab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 Of some note it is ONLY the 2 smaller windows at the front that have these track marks . I’m probably confusing everyone by showing the other larger 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 I think a very careful dye test, doing one small area outside at a time, is perhaps the easiest way to find out where the water is getting in. This needs to be done very carefully because you don't get a second chance, once dye has found its way to the area around the window opening you won't be able to prove any other leak points. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted March 7, 2019 Author Share Posted March 7, 2019 1 minute ago, jamiehamy said: Why don't you get an angle grinder and put a score ACROSS the crack line (i.e at 90degrees) - say 5mm deep and 100mm long. See if that stops the moisture tracking? And see which side it's coming from that way? Just a thought? ANy tracking moisture should stop and drip down to the floor rather than permeat across the concrete and the line of the crack? That’s a good plan ! I’ll stick my pir over the track for today to proof not condensation ( yeah I know ! ) . Then if tracks still there tomorrow with grind a line across the track Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 5 minutes ago, JSHarris said: I think a very careful dye test, doing one small area outside at a time, is perhaps the easiest way to find out where the water is getting in. This needs to be done very carefully because you don't get a second chance, once dye has found its way to the area around the window opening you won't be able to prove any other leak points. Different coloured dyes should do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now