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Edpm at edges


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1 minute ago, pocster said:

What a bitch ! 6 months to be no further - keeps me awake at night

I’m sure it does, total clusterfruck of a situation for you, sorry but it’s just gone beyond my pay grade...... hope someone has a good idea. 

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5 minutes ago, Cpd said:

I’m sure it does, total clusterfruck of a situation for you, sorry but it’s just gone beyond my pay grade...... hope someone has a good idea. 

I’ve emailed the new roofer whom I trust - to take a look .

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9 minutes ago, pocster said:

And I’ve got no wine ? 

 

Red wine...stains...got me thinking...

 

How about UV dye? Make the solution up and pour over ONE area. Let it soak through and get a UV light on where those track marks are. For example:

 

https://uk.trotec.com/products-services/measuring-devices/leak-detection/tracer-dyes/luminate/

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25 minutes ago, pocster said:

Was going to re fit my flashing but bitumen is all over my neat grove !

That’s not going to be fun recutting with an angle grinder..... smoke and gunked up blade....... good luck 

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I don't think it's getting in around the windows, it's hard to see how it can given the good job that's been done around them.  I suspect that water is tracking in from the edges somewhere, and it just happens to collect on the underside corners of the window apertures, perhaps because there is a very slight fall on the underside along those track lines, with the corners of the window aperture being the lowest points.

 

The weakest points, from your photos, would seem to be around the periphery, perhaps water is actually getting in through the wall, from the other side?

 

@Onoff's suggestion of dye testing is a good one.  I've done some dye testing, looking to see where underground streams came out on the surface, back when I used to do a bit of caving, and it's pretty easy to do.  You can either use fluorescein, or you can use OBAs (optical brightening agents, used in washing powder to make things look whiter).  OBAs can't be seen with the naked eye; we used to use tampons as detectors (they are pure cotton, with no additives, and come with a handy bit of string to tie them to sticks or branches so they can dangle into the stream) together with a UV light (one of the cheap fake banknote lights works well).  Fluorescein is harder to use, as it needs to be diluted a great deal, but perhaps easier to get hold of (sadly I threw out a whole box of dye packs when we moved, scrounged from aircraft survival packs).  Pity, as I could have sent a couple up to you.  One small dinghy dye pack will dye acres of ocean green (and it'll dye your hands and anything else too), so you only need a tiny bit.  Applied with a watering can in one area at a time, or perhaps painted on so that it will wash in with the rain, might be the best approach.

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18 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Some of the picture of the wall shows it to be absolutely soaking. Is it supposed to have a coping on top?

Ages ago to "save money" I made the coping. Unfortunately they seem to be falling apart so will need to be replaced in the future.

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One concern ( though it appears dry ) is how I finish the build and make a water tight joint against the stone work ( photo with the ladder in holding some DPM against the build and wall ).

Will get a better photo tomorrow.

 

In another photo ( with only 1 water track line) is *seems* to track back to the end of a structural steel. Could just be coincidence ......

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21 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Some of the picture of the wall shows it to be absolutely soaking. Is it supposed to have a coping on top?

 

Yes, is that solid or a cavity wall. Are there any high points the water could be getting in, down and under the roofing?

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1 minute ago, Onoff said:

 

Yes, is that solid or a cavity wall. Are there any high points the water could be getting in, down and under the roofing?

The wall is block work then clad in stone both sides. I might screw some OSB strips ontop of it to act as coping...

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7 minutes ago, pocster said:

The wall is block work then clad in stone both sides. I might screw some OSB strips ontop of it to act as coping...

 

Most likely your issue then ... it’s tracking the inside of the block to to stone cavity and then under the stone and out. 

 

How big is that stone wall ..?? I would take down this side and get the water proofing taken to the blockwork and then build the stone back on top. Sorry ...

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17 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Most likely your issue then ... it’s tracking the inside of the block to to stone cavity and then under the stone and out. 

 

How big is that stone wall ..?? I would take down this side and get the water proofing taken to the blockwork and then build the stone back on top. Sorry ...

But if I implement some form of coping won’t that stop water getting in the wall ? ( assuming that’s the issue )

I shoukd point out that single track mark window is no where near a stone wall ...

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3 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

Can you not just cover the top of the wall with dpc, felt,  polythene and let it sit and see if it does dry out. 

 

That’s exactly what I thought . 

Tomorrow I’ll try that . Also need help with the house to wall detail - photos to follow .

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Got to site today 

water tracks in the same place , though lesser .

No idea if my ‘covering up’ helped or it was just less rain 

Anyway - this corner where house joins wall . Would the best way to get that render board right to the wall to angle grind a vertical slit for it ?

B8F45EBB-5749-447A-8ABC-3AF638FA5080.jpeg

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