IVT Ecolane ASHP - any owners out there?

[readiescards]

I've duly purchased one of the Ebay special ASHP as per:

 

 

Just wondering if anyone else has done likewise (I think @peterw has) and any installation/running tips. Thanks Paul

 

[PeterW]

Has it got the control box with it ..?? They have a 4 wire control but only 2 are really used as it joins 3 together at the output of the 24v transformer ..!

[Nickfromwales]

@PeterW

Itll be running mono-temp, eg never doing hot water. Can it simply be told to fire up at a set temp ?

[PeterW]

Yep - works on a single pipe stat set to temperature. Assuming this is the same spec as mine.  Should come with a Siemens pipe stat in the box with the controls

[readiescards]

Came with these bits only.

 

How have you secured/ mounted it?

[PeterW]

Ok so take the lid off and you will find terminals marked L N E P1 P2 A1A2 A3 A5 from memory. 

 

P1 and P2 connect to the pipe stat. L N E connect to the switched output from the time clock (via the room stat)

 

A1-A5 go to the matching connections on the internal board. 

 

Need a 25a rotary switch and some flex to connect - I used HORN. 

 

Should look like this when it’s done. 

 

Time clock controls the on/off, room stat controls the room temps and then the pipe stat does the ASHP signaling. 

 

 

 

for ease - as I had to go one side to the other - I used copper and then use flexis to the termination at the house. Unit sits on Mini Pads from TLC Direct and were £2 each. 

[Nickfromwales]

If no 'kit' ordered, just uni-strut and 4 anti-vibration mounts ( like for a compressor ) ?

[joe90]

My Kingspan ASHP has no mention of anti vibration pads, should I get some before I bolt it down to the pad?

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

My Kingspan ASHP has no mention of anti vibration pads, should I get some before I bolt it down to the pad?

Deffo. 

[Nickfromwales]

This kind of thing is available link but uni-strut and a couple of cheaper compressor feet should suffice / exceed the required isolation by a good bit. 

Or these onto uni-strut would be my method.  

[Jeremy Harris]

1 hour ago, joe90 said:

My Kingspan ASHP has no mention of anti vibration pads, should I get some before I bolt it down to the pad?

 

My identical Glowworm doesn't have AV pads either, and the MIs just say bolt direct to the concrete base.  I bolted mine directly down with thunderbolts and there's no noise or vibration at all.  If you look inside you'll find that the scroll compressor is mounted on internal AV mounts, which is presumably why the MIs make no mention of fitting the unit on AV pads.

[PeterW]

Yep and I only used these - cheap and easy, they fit under the mounts really well with a penny washer on top. 

 

Minifoot

 

[readiescards]

On 12/05/2018 at 19:22, PeterW said:

Yep and I only used these - cheap and easy, they fit under the mounts really well with a penny washer on top. 

 

Minifoot

 

 

I brought 4 of these, nice and cheap ?  However there is no way to secure them to the concrete base - have you simply mounted your ASHP on top of them with and are simply relying on the units weight to prevent it bouncing around?

[ProDave]

I have just mounted my ASHP (different make) and I used 4 of these anti vibration feet http://cpc.farnell.com/sip/02357a/anti-vibration-mounts-sold-as/dp/TL19203?st=anti vibration mount

 

No problem bolting them down to the base. And cheaper from CPC than I could find on ebay

[PeterW]

3 hours ago, readiescards said:

 

I brought 4 of these, nice and cheap ?  However there is no way to secure them to the concrete base - have you simply mounted your ASHP on top of them with and are simply relying on the units weight to prevent it bouncing around?

 

Its 80kg and going nowhere.... Vibration is minimal and tbh they don't really need the feet, I just wanted it clear of the ground.

[ProDave]

1 hour ago, PeterW said:

 

Its 80kg and going nowhere.... Vibration is minimal and tbh they don't really need the feet, I just wanted it clear of the ground.

I used them because it would be near impossible to bolt mine down directly. I think it was designed by a previous car designer with the mounting bolt holes as inaccessible as possible.  Using the feet you could tip the ASHP over, fit the feet, then stand it back up, drill and bolt down the feet.

 

SWMBO insisted I bolt it down otherwise the wind would blow it over. I know it gets windy here but......

[DeeJunFan]

Hi Guys, 

 

My IVT didnt' come with a pipe stat and i'm wondering is there any particular sort needed for installation? 

 

Also I'm trying to figure out how to set the program on this.   I was looking to get the digital controller on Ebay but they appear to be no longer available. 

 

Basically i want to be able to have Heating running at say 25 degrees and Hot water running at 42 degrees? 

 

Any help much appreciated. 

 

Thanks

Damian

[DeeJunFan]

On 12/05/2018 at 16:01, PeterW said:

Ok so take the lid off and you will find terminals marked L N E P1 P2 A1A2 A3 A5 from memory. 

 

P1 and P2 connect to the pipe stat. L N E connect to the switched output from the time clock (via the room stat)

 

A1-A5 go to the matching connections on the internal board. 

 

Need a 25a rotary switch and some flex to connect - I used HORN. 

 

Should look like this when it’s done. 

 

Time clock controls the on/off, room stat controls the room temps and then the pipe stat does the ASHP signaling. 

 

 

 

for ease - as I had to go one side to the other - I used copper and then use flexis to the termination at the house. Unit sits on Mini Pads from TLC Direct and were £2 each. 

 

@PeterW

 

Just looking at your Schematic and I'm wondering were the contacts circled 9-12 are?  

 

I can see the Live Neutral and Earth then A1,2,3,4 B 1,2,3,4 but dont see where the other contacts you refer to are? 

 

Any ideas, i'm mainly concerned about how to set the program for the different temperature levels.   Say 35 for the UFH and 45 for the DHW. 

 

 

Any pointers you can give me would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks

Damian

[ProDave]

I can't help with the questions, but it looks a bit like my LG ASHP in so far as thee are a LOT of cables to connect to the HP.

 

I did not want to be fishing lots of separate cables through bits of conduit, which would be even more of a PITA if you needed to add an extra one later.  So I found a bit of 10 core control cable rated at 300V and connected every terminal I was likely to use to just 1 cable, and ran this to a marshalling box inside the house (standard 12 terminal central heating wiring centre) and split the wiring to all the various valves, thermostats and programmers from there.

[PeterW]

Can you take a photo of the box they sent you ..? It’s got a series of connections inside. 

 

That 2 zone valve is for the UFH calling for heat and allows the manifold to access either the buffer tank or the ASHP. 

 

You can can do multiple thermostats - you either need a relay to switch them over or use the micro switch on the diverter valve like I have. 

[DeeJunFan]

Thanks I'll get some pictures tomorrow. 

 

I seem to have the same connections as you as in the picture above.   As and Bs

 

Then in the grey control box i have the 24 v PSU with the 4 connectors either side. 

 

Will get the photos up. 

[DeeJunFan]

I have these connections available.  Not photos but taken from the manual. 

 

The PSU control box looks like this . 

 

 

 

Then Inside the Heat Pump casing there are connections like this. 

 

[PeterW]

That’s the same as mine. WPlan is ok but hot water always gets priority. 

 

You need to switch over the two thermostats either side of the diverter valve so get one with a micro switch. 

[DeeJunFan]

10 hours ago, PeterW said:

That’s the same as mine. WPlan is ok but hot water always gets priority. 

 

You need to switch over the two thermostats either side of the diverter valve so get one with a micro switch. 

 

I dont mind the hot water having the priority as i'm looking at doing the following. 

 

UFH will be able to call for heat at any time once called by the room stats.

 

Hot water will be heated a good portion of the time by the PV (I hope)

 

heating time clock will turn on hot water at say 4pm (as we shower in the evening)  and if the tank is not satisfied by the PV then the ASHP will start to pump at the higher temp to the tank. 

 

I'm still unsure of the details to be honest.   I dont know how long it would take the heat pump to heat the Cylinder once its been switched on so may need to start the heating cycle earlier.   I'm not sure if it will leave us with cold points in terms of heating if the Hot water is going to be on for 3-4 hours during the afternoon evening and the house cools down. 

 

I'm not sure if it would be possible to add some logic to the immersion that if  the hot water isn't at temp by say 7pm then the immersion turns on? 

 

Or would i be better to just buy an in-line heater similar to @JSHarris and ensure that way that We always have DHW?

 

Thanks

Damian

 

 

[joe90]

3 minutes ago, DeeJunFan said:

I'm not sure if it would be possible to add some logic to the immersion that if  the hot water isn't at temp by say 7pm then the immersion turns on? 

 

Surely if the immersion’s are on a timer, then at 7 they will come on ONLY if the water is not up to temp?(their internal thermostat will detect this). I bought an in line heater like Jeremy but was advised not to use it!! I have still yet to sort my ASHP heating out  ?