Soil stack to 110 drain -- the wrong way and right way

[PeterW]

Agree if you have the access. 

Most of the problems with the multi tools is people not turning the speed down and using the wrong blades - use a decent sharp blade and take your time and you can cut most things ..! I cut a doorframe free of plasterboard and moved it 3" across and you couldn't tell it had been done..! 

Like most tools, they have their uses !

[SuperJohnG]

On 29/06/2016 at 13:27, Nickfromwales said:

There should have been a double socket straight connector on the top of each upstand . In that, blank caps fitted to stop the concrete failing in, but most importantly to protect the fitting and its internal rubber seal. 

I'd not even consider using that fitting as I only ever use those for picking up from a clay soil pipe. The internal bore is too far reduced to be putting that at the START of the stack, sorry. Hire a 6" core drill, make a 6" hole in some 18mm ply as a guide, lay the ply on the floor and centralise it over the stack. Core drill down around 75mm and remove the spoil, then cut the soil just shy of the FFL and then attach said coupler. It's a bit of a pita but if I was there, that's what would be happening.

Don't kango out around the pipe or you'll scratch / damage it and be unable to get a seal when you offer the fitting on. 

I've just found this thread. @Nickfromwales so what should be happening is a double female socket fitted prior to the pour so it points out the slab?

 

or is a stub acceptable with a triple socket branch for the downstairs WC and then the upstairs can stay  in line?

 

(I couldn't see the issue in this thread, but I am about to leave 100m pipe sticking out my slab and got semi concerned this is not what I should be doing!) I thought I'd just trim to size on house up and then fit a triple socket branch.

[Dave Jones]

a length of pipe jutting out the slab is fine. The plumber will cut it to size when first fixing.

 

There will be plenty of room for a coupler to go on it even if its direct coupled to a toilet.

[willbish]

10 hours ago, SuperJohnG said:

is a stub acceptable

It's what I've got and no issues raised yet.

 

I am wondering whether it is correct/acceptable to push a single socket pipe down on to the stub? Feels like using the pipe in this orientation is wrong... 

[TerryE]

Not ideal, but works fine in practice.  In our case I was very careful to cut the rising stub square and clean.  We had an inspection eye as the male/female connector plugging into the female/female coupler.  TBH, I just added a bit of solvent at the joins and put my hand in to smooth this off.  It's a vertical drop so I can't see any chance of leaking, and the female at the top of the inspection eye acts as the expansion joint.  Not perfect, but an entirely acceptable botch, IMO.

Edited January 19, 2021 by TerryE
a little case of missing a negative :)

[LA3222]

Forgot to mention this before, but one solution is to wrap the stub in a couple of layers of foam roughly at the height of where the concrete slab will finish. That way you can pull out the foam, trim the stub and get a coupler to sit nicely into the slab in the gap created by the foam.

 

I was connecting my stacks up the other day and this worked almost perfectly. I got the foam out, no need to chisel any concrete and the 15 ish mm gap created by the foam was just right for a coupler to push into.

 

My mistake was to be too high with the foam on the pipe, I was only an inch into the concrete when I pulled it out, it was enough but if id placed the foam a little lower I could have had a good two inches space to play with.

 

@SuperJohnG may be an option when setting your pipes in. It saves the headache of getting the socket to the exact height it needs to be. 

Edited February 1, 2021 by LA3222

[SuperJohnG]

46 minutes ago, LA3222 said:

Forgot to mention this before, but one solution is to wrap the stub in a couple of layers of foam roughly at the height of where the concrete slab will finish. That way you can pull out the foam, trim the stub and get a coupler to sit nicely into the slab in the gap created by the foam.

 

I was connecting my stacks up the other day and this worked almost perfectly. I got the foam out, no need to chisel any concrete and the 15 ish mm gap created by the foam was just right for a coupler to push into.

 

My mistake was to be too high with the foam on the pipe, I was only an inch into the concrete when I pulled it out, it was enough but if id placed the foam a little lower I could have had a good two inches space to play with.

 

@SuperJohnG may be an option when setting your pipes in. It saves the headache of getting the socket to the exact height it needs to be. 

@LA3222 thanks and I had been thinking about it. Did you just order some foam online? 

 

I've been looking at my rebates for the levels thresholds this week, I had planned to build shuttering boxes, but just realised I'd be much easier just buying some extra EPS sheets and sticking them on the void I wanted. Seems much easier to do. Did you have any voids/ rebates? 

[LA3222]

3 hours ago, SuperJohnG said:

@LA3222 thanks and I had been thinking about it. Did you just order some foam online? 

 

I've been looking at my rebates for the levels thresholds this week, I had planned to build shuttering boxes, but just realised I'd be much easier just buying some extra EPS sheets and sticking them on the void I wanted. Seems much easier to do. Did you have any voids/ rebates? 

I just used some 15mm foam i had laying around, gave it a couple of turns around the soil pipes and taped in place. You can see in the pic it leaves a nice tidy gap around the pipe in which to get a coupler, just set my foam a little higher than I would have liked but it worked. I haven't any experience with rebates etc. I suspect you're on the right lines with setting some EPS in place as a mould.