Ed_MK Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Good Afternoon All Well its time to finalise my drawing and sewage and services layout. As some of you know (due to location) ...I am actually bringing ALL my connections past our parents house (on the edge of their land) In return for letting us, we are connecting them to the main sewer with our build half the houses here are still "on the pits" ..including theirs Now I have tried to measure everything in 10cm / 100mm blocks and got the drawing below. Obviously this is the "busiest" part as this is between our parents and next door and it is where they will connect to our sewage via a 450mm manhole (which is that box in the middle Looking at the below and bearing in mind that T=Telecom. E=Electric G=Gas and W=Water and of course WW = Waste water (sewage) Will i be safe using this as a cross section for the Building regs ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 1 hour ago, Ed_MK said: Good Afternoon All Well its time to finalise my drawing and sewage and services layout. As some of you know (due to location) ...I am actually bringing ALL my connections past our parents house (on the edge of their land) In return for letting us, we are connecting them to the main sewer with our build half the houses here are still "on the pits" ..including theirs Now I have tried to measure everything in 10cm / 100mm blocks and got the drawing below. Obviously this is the "busiest" part as this is between our parents and next door and it is where they will connect to our sewage via a 450mm manhole (which is that box in the middle Looking at the below and bearing in mind that T=Telecom. E=Electric G=Gas and W=Water and of course WW = Waste water (sewage) Will i be safe using this as a cross section for the Building regs ? Keep it a simple as possible You will have to make a few alterations as you go The planners can get a bit hung up over and prepossessing drawings Bit BC are pretty good If something isn’t going to quite work out They are usually open to tweeks here and there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 thanks Nod I just have a LOT to squeeze in one trench to be honest its this "underground" stuff that frightens me the most.. ..what with the pipes going UNDER the sunroom are back at the house, and everyone talking about 1:50 and 1:80 falls etc some people are telling me that I will need a soakaway as "they" dont LIKE you sending rainwater down the sewage drains ...but i cant find any reference to it ..good or bad on the forms i have (sigh) *they is normally meaning the council/BCO/environment or any other God-Like entity that makes rules for us to follow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Soakaways are now pretty mandatory for new builds - 5m from the house, make it 2.5m deep, 2m square, line it with geotex and then dump 4 tonne bags of 20mm gravel in , cap with geotex and then fill it back in ... That works on most reasonably porous soils - if you hit clay or gault then you may get away with a combined sewer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 (edited) You can probably send water down the sewer if they ... the water company ... do not object and the Council let it through. My own Councils' Position is that they follow the recommendation, and a planning App I helped kill last December (30 ft blank gable 5ft from my fence) had waste water to sewerage approved. The Council said that there was no point objecting to that as it was OK by them when I was recruiting the kitchen sink to throw at it. OTOH talking to a family friend today who has inexplicably high water bills, 14% of his water bill (=~ £100 of £600) relates to waste water. So a soak away may actually pay for itself quite quickly by comparison. Ferdinand Edited February 10, 2018 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 3 hours ago, Ed_MK said: some people are telling me that I will need a soakaway as "they" dont LIKE you sending rainwater down the sewage drains ...but i cant find any reference to it ..good or bad on the forms i have (sigh) Different areas different rules but having a soakaway was part of my planning conditions in Yorkshire. Rainfall patterns are changing and more waste water pipes have been overwhelmed by volumes of rainwater - that my be less of an issue in your area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 We were caught between a hard place and several big rocks with rainwater disposal. We didn't have a sewerage connection, and even if we had they don't allow combined drainage here anyway, so we wouldn't have been allowed to run the rainwater run off to that. We had a condition imposed by the Environment Agency that no run off from rainwater on our plot was allowed to either leave the site on the surface or flow into the adjacent stream. The ground we were building on was impermeable gault clay, much like the stuff you would use to line a pond or canal in order to keep it watertight. We were obliged (just like every other new build in the UK, including Scotland and NI) to comply with the Sustainable Urban Drainage System requirements (see the wiki entry here for an overview with more links at the bottom: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_drainage_system ). After a great deal of debate, we dug a deep hole and found a thin band of permeable soil at around the same level as the lane, and perhaps 500mm or so above the stream. We then had agreement that if we fitted a "suitable" surge storage system, draining to this thin layer, we might meet the soakaway requirements. So, we dug two large holes under where the drive was going to be, filled them with a total of 20 Aquacell crates, wrapped in terram, and ran all the rain water pipes to this 3,920 litre volume surge tank. The drive also drains to this, as in order to comply with SuDS we used permeable pavers on a permeable sub-base, that allowed rain water run off to flow down through the drive to the big surge tank. What happens is that in heavy rain the tank fills, then slowly drains away into the thin band of permeable soil. I'm absolutely sure that it just runs under the lane and into the stream, but as that can't be seen the EA aren't concerned............... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 good grief! Well our drive will be gravel on some compacted hardcore base ... due mainly to finance and not aesthetics ..its fairly dry stuff here and water just literally disappears .... very stony stuff underneath ...so that seems good But of course the roof will need to drain into some sort of soakaway (I am surmising) I bet there is some calculation based on sqM as i cant see them letting me plonk a wire litter basket full of sawdust in the ground .. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Have a look here for some guidance: http://www.susdrain.org/delivering-suds/ The always useful Paving Expert site also has some useful info: http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain12.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) Will do thanks J.. I just trotted out to the road with my newly purchase £8 manhole keys to get a quick invert level ..(whistling as i went) WELL..I was ambitious to say the least. I was swinging back on them like King Kong on Big Ben and I am 20+ stone ...and i think it moved precisely 1mm So i thought ..I know !! ..I will put a pick axe in the hole and get some leverage ... Yes...you guessed it ...snapped the damn handle in half LOL Either these drain covers are stuck or they weigh 100 stone ! maybe both!! it is a SPLIT cover ...now I am thinking perhaps they need to be lifted in some sort of sequence ? or perhaps they have been welded or fixed together God ..I feel weak ps (I stopped whistling) PS just in case you all think I am daft..i DID ask Anglian water for this information, and the gist of the answer is as follows: We will send you an area map of the sewage and water supplies in your vicinity, with the various manholes marked on them. a) No we cannot guarantee these diagrams will be right as work is constantly ongoing and you may need to cross check with your local authority planning department* b) We cant give you an accurate invert level, as if inaccurate (due to surface changes) we could be held accountable, but you can measure it yourself, no problem* * not verbatim, but you get the idea Edited February 11, 2018 by Ed_MK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Chances are it’s jammed if it’s in the road so get a crowbar into the little slot in the middle of the long edge and lever it unless you’ve got a very big pry bar ..?? try pulling one corner up with a key too but don’t slide the lid as it will just drop into the manhole ..!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 Good Idea Peter ! Brute force to avoid a £70 a day hire charge (for hydraulic lifter) ....I like it I had a little blue one in the garage ..but i am thinking i will mosey down to Screwfix for this BABY !! https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-gorilla-bar-48/29330 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 well, I have called it quits for today ... the bar gets it up ..but not enough to get a wedge under it as the lip on the lid must be at least 3 inches, I am guessing both sides need to be lifted SQUARE or they basically jar so the full time results are ... 3 hours, 2 men, 2 steel handled grafts, BIG screwdriver, lump hammer, 2 manhole keys and a 4ft crowbar = 0 Manhole cover =1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 If you bang on it with a sledge in a few places and make it bounce it will clear all the crap that is around the sides. Then you must lift it straight up or the two pieces lock tight together and won't budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 5 minutes ago, Declan52 said: ..... or the two pieces lock tight together and won't budge. you are not wrong Declan !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 I think i MIGHT be over thinking this sewage diagram. Perhaps i am going loopy with inspection chambers I have been advised that its FINE to run waste UNDER the slab ...but I don't like the idea of it ... ..Do you know what I mean ? I like to be able to get at stuff without demolition ! Anyway ...I have been looking at where waste will be originating in this build 1. Downstairs there is a small WC and of course a fair bit of it coming from the greywaste in the kitchen along the wall 2. Upstairs its all located along the one wall ...basically above the sunroom, well not exactly ...but you know Now if these sites I am reading suggest that every time you make a substantial turn, you need an inspection cover ? Well as you can see below ..I will have FOUR ....is that normal ? Also as we are PICKING UP our parents waste (they are currently on a cesspit) its a fair run out to the road. When i manage to get the top off and check the invert level ..i hope i can get enough fall along this legnth , as I am guessing the more manholes ...the more STEPS DOWN i will be going ..and may well end up UNDER the Road Mains That will make me a gibbering wreck !?!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Over thinking it... First IC at the back left, pick up the kitchen and use as rodding point. Run under slab to pick up SVP for downstairs WC Second SVP into rest bend to back of sunroom, all meeting in an IC at the front. Allows you to rod both branches and down the drive. Job done ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_MK Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 thanks Peter ...I feel like I am back at school Work getting handed back with lots of RED on it ... remember the old "See Me" they used to put on it ? I wonder do they still do that LOL * I get the top bit ..that extended line is a" Rodding eye" right? * and then it runs the full length (about 15m) picking up the downstairs WC, and that "angle" is OK ? i suppose after all there is no other "chunky" waste going down there ...except the wifes leftover lentils ! *On the right hand side, I can see that it runs UNDER the property, would this also have a rodding eye at the top right, as i keep reading that it should be rodded "downstream" only ..would that be right? sorry for the questions PS. I suppose the optimal place for the "stench pipe" is just above he sunroom in the image (to the right of it as you look at it)? and am i right in thinking the downstairs WC does not NEED a stench pipe at all ?..to be honest i dont really understand their "mechanics" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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