Hi all,

When planning lighting for a kitchen, do you normally put the ceiling lights, under-cabinet lights and island lighting on separate switches?

It seems separate circuits or switching can make the room more practical, especially when you want brighter light for food preparation but a softer setting in the evening.

I’m interested in how people usually plan the switching and wiring for these different lighting zones, and whether there are any common things worth considering before the kitchen is fitted.

What approach has worked well for you?

Yes all separate switches. If it is a dual use room, then separate ceiling lights for kitchen area, dining area, living area and even allow for wall lights.

Yep. And then each one on a smart relay so they can be linked if necessary.

For example my beam lights come on with my kitchen spots, but can also be controlled independently from their own switch.

And another yes here - 4 switches on my current project.

Good advice from everyone. When we did our kitchen, we installed cabling for all eventualities and took it back to a 47mm double backbox that has four light switches on it. At the moment, we only use three (dining area, main kitchen, and above-cabinet LEDs), but we also have cables for under-cabinet lighting and plinth lighting should we ever change our minds.

Yep and multiple switch locations as well if you have open-plan. You don't want to schelp over from one zone to another.

One thing we thought was a good idea is to have one of your multi-switch locations at the main of ingress/egress to the room. Ours is by the door leading to the stairs so that you can turn any/every-thing on/off as soon as you enter/leave the room

Regards

Tet

PS We went massively overboard with lighting to preserve symmettry, but they remain very adjustable. My only issue is that my main downlights are now discontinued so I am bu##erered if replacements are needed

12 hours ago, ProDave said:

Yes all separate switches. If it is a dual use room, then separate ceiling lights for kitchen area, dining area, living area and even allow for wall lights.

That makes sense, having separate switches gives you more flexibility, especially when the kitchen and dining area share the same space. wall lights are a good option too for a softer light in the evening.

12 hours ago, Super_Paulie said:

Yep. And then each one on a smart relay so they can be linked if necessary.

For example my beam lights come on with my kitchen spots, but can also be controlled independently from their own switch.

nice, that sounds like a handy way to set it up. you get the option to run everything together or just use the beam lights on their own when you want a different feel.

1 hour ago, garrymartin said:

Good advice from everyone. When we did our kitchen, we installed cabling for all eventualities and took it back to a 47mm double backbox that has four light switches on it. At the moment, we only use three (dining area, main kitchen, and above-cabinet LEDs), but we also have cables for under-cabinet lighting and plinth lighting should we ever change our minds.

planning for the extra lighting from the start was a good idea. even if you do not use all the cables straight away, it saves the hassle of adding them later if you decide to change things.

51 minutes ago, Tetrarch said:

Yep and multiple switch locations as well if you have open-plan. You don't want to schelp over from one zone to another.

One thing we thought was a good idea is to have one of your multi-switch locations at the main of ingress/egress to the room. Ours is by the door leading to the stairs so that you can turn any/every-thing on/off as soon as you enter/leave the room

Regards

Tet

PS We went massively overboard with lighting to preserve symmettry, but they remain very adjustable. My only issue is that my main downlights are now discontinued so I am bu##erered if replacements are needed

the switch location by the entrance is a good point. it is much easier to control everything when you come in or leave, especially in an open-plan room. shame about the downlights being discontinued though, that is always a risk when you have a lot of the same fittings.

Re downlights. Only fit ones with replacable e.g. GU10 lamps. They are harder to find now, but at least they are maintainable.

Just now, ProDave said:

Re downlights. Only fit ones with replacable e.g. GU10 lamps. They are harder to find now, but at least they are maintainable.

Or buy a box of spares with the non replaceable type. (I'd hugely prefer changable bulbs but as you say they are getting more difficult these days, especially if looking for specific features)

I wonder if 25 light switches is enough, because that is what I have - a little on the mean side perhaps 🤣

Worktop ceiling downlights

Walkway ceiling downlights

Island ceiling downlights

Island pendants (2 way)

Dining pendants

Dining ceiling downlights

Dining picture spotlights

Sitting ceiling downlights - row 1, row 2, row 3

Intermediate downlights

Doorway downlights

Hallway downlights

Bifold downlights

Wall light

Garden doorway downlight (2 way)

Undercabinet worktop lights

Underworktop led strip

Shelving led strip

Outside wall lights

Outside soffit lights - side, rear

Spare smart home programmable

(All dimmable and smart, many CCT)

I also have a switch for the electric rooflight, and 4 other LED strip lights will be wireless control only.

(Yes, I am madder than mad Jack Mcmad, the winner of last year's Mr Madman.)

Tips - make sure you assign your switches in a logical manner e.g. left to right across the plate = left to right across the room, and plate by plate down the room, otherwise people will be playing light switch bingo. This is also the argument against putting everything together by the doorway - grandchild could open the rooflight when going to do some colouring in at the dining table. I have the kitchen LED light switches on the end of the island. You can now easily install smart switch modules provided you have planned for extra deep/large back boxes. I found MarcLED had a lot of different LED profiles when unable to find what I wanted elsewhere.

And buy some extra lights as spares where using integrated fittings. I have plenty of replacements if they start dropping out 5 or 10 years down the line.

I rather like these multiple led strip vibes but too late for that...

https://youtube.com/shorts/kmbr_zzqTTE?si=Q_37SjtvwcCb5rKh

Edited 3 hours ago3 hr by Spinny

8 minutes ago, Spinny said:

I wonder if 25 light switches is enough, because that is what I have - a little on the mean side perhaps 🤣

Looks fairly comprehensive!

Although I'd have grouped them into layers & usage zones to cut down the number of switches.

15 minutes ago, Spinny said:

Tips - make sure you assign your switches in a logical manner e.g. left to right across the plate

Also a good idea to be consistant across all the rooms.

Using the alternative layered switching concept, for example, it could be that the first switch always controls the primary (most-used) layer of lights (often the ambiant layer), the second controls the task-lighitng layer, the 3rd the accent layer, and the 4th any night-lights.

If there are multiple zones that does become a little more complex unless you use modular light switches. For example this (European) system allows you to put 1, 2 or 3 switches in any of the 4 modules:

Edited 2 hours ago2 hr by Mike

19 hours ago, cedricuk said:

....

What approach has worked well for you?

Well, how long have you got ? Are you sitting comfortably, then I'll begin.......

Second thoughts I'm not that cruel.

@Spinny 's approach is what I'd planned , but in our case, I made a massive massive massive mistake...

🫡Didn't tell SWMBO what I was planning in terms of switches - so now she just switches everything on, leaves it on and refuses to switch the 96 other light switches ( Worktop ceiling downlights Walkway ceiling downlights Island ceiling downlights [...] lights ) off.

Why not sweetheart ?

Because you didn't tell me that we'd need 9 million switches to switch them on - and BLOODY OFF.

Oh, ..... glass of wine perhaps?

She doesn't like switches - and the rest of the family sure as HELL doesn't like switching the bloody things off

I disappeared up my own fundament. And found that there were dragons up there.

1 minute ago, ToughButterCup said:

She doesn't like switches - and the rest of the family sure as HELL doesn't like switching the bloody things off

My first thought when reading @Spinny 's post was 'too many switches, would be better to put some automation and scene controllers in'. I think once you've got more than 3 switches in a room that's the way to go. Maybe have local switches near to each light/group of lights but the main switch location(s) should be buttons that control scenes rather than individual lights.

Our kitchen diner is a L shaped room, 8m by 8m. We kept it simple, 8x large led down lights for kitchen and dining area in total. That is also fine for the island and we have no shadows, as they are nice and bright and shine light in all directions. Two doors into kitchen one switch at each door. Kitchen cabinets and down lights under cabinets are are on a single switch by the hob.

You don't need loads of lights and zones. Not a fan GU10 type lights as you need loaded of them