Sound proofing portion walls.

[Russell griffiths]

Stud wall between a bedroom and an en-suite bathroom. 
90mm timber studs. 
insulate inbetween studs or double plasterboard both sides. 
 

this is a holiday lodge we have so the only noise will be hearing the wife dropping the kids off at school. 
 

I think bang for my buck double boarding is cheaper. 

[JohnMo]

90mm studs 50mm dense mineral wool I used rock wool Flexi - zero issues and normal 12.5mm plasterboard on each side.

[Russell griffiths]

17 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

90mm studs 50mm dense mineral wool I used rock wool Flexi - zero issues and normal 12.5mm plasterboard on each side.

This is exactly what I have done in the house. 
im just thinking plasterboard is cheap if I buy a pack, and double boarding is easy if I’m already doing it and the screw gun is out. 

[JohnMo]

11 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

This is exactly what I have done in the house. 
im just thinking plasterboard is cheap if I buy a pack, and double boarding is easy if I’m already doing it and the screw gun is out. 

With the empty void even with 2x plasterboard each side, its still a drum. Air is a great way to carry noise.

[saveasteading]

Impact noise or airborne?

For both, if you can spare a bit more wall width  (how much do you have?)

 

Studs twice, staggered to face each room  with plasterboard only on one set of studs, so that you have physical discontinity.

That deals with bumps and some loud noise, especially bass.

 

eg a 100mm sole plate but 75mm studs lining up alternately with only one room or the other.. @ 600mm cc, twice, so actually every 300mm

 

Then fill the void with any mineral wool, and you can even put some between studs and the 'other' side. It will snake.

One sheet pb each side, possibly upgrade to the denser blue faced grade.

 

for dB figures see the Knauff catalogue.

 

That will be stunningly good, with the weaknesses being at plates to floor, ceiling and existing walls, so you'll still hear the vacuum bumping at skirtings.

 

 

[Russell griffiths]

3 hours ago, saveasteading said:

Impact noise or airborne?

For both, if you can spare a bit more wall width  (how much do you have?)

 

Studs twice, staggered to face each room  with plasterboard only on one set of studs, so that you have physical discontinity.

That deals with bumps and some loud noise, especially bass.

 

eg a 100mm sole plate but 75mm studs lining up alternately with only one room or the other.. @ 600mm cc, twice, so actually every 300mm

 

Then fill the void with any mineral wool, and you can even put some between studs and the 'other' side. It will snake.

One sheet pb each side, possibly upgrade to the denser blue faced grade.

 

for dB figures see the Knauff catalogue.

 

That will be stunningly good, with the weaknesses being at plates to floor, ceiling and existing walls, so you'll still hear the vacuum bumping at skirtings.

 

 

No room for that the whole building is only 6mx6m and it’s only a holiday let so only slept in for 4-5 consecutive nights. 
just looking at a cheap n cheerful solution. 
probably easier to just buy a couple of packs of acoustic insulation and chuck it in. 
trying to save a fiver here and there. 

[saveasteading]

15 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

No room for that

You suggest 90mm studs. So you could use 90mm as the sole plate etc, then studs of CLS 63mm.

[Onoff]

The 16mm soundblock (blue) board I used does what it says on the tin.

[saveasteading]

I have been advised (off the record) that none of the wall constructions perform as well in real life as in acoustic tests.

This is because the tests are not between real rooms, but through a central area of a panel. ie no flanking sound.

 

The difference between grey and blue will be fairly accurate though.

[Gus Potter]

9 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Stud wall between a bedroom and an en-suite bathroom. 

From memory the regs for an ensuite are less strict, the door is the obvious weak point. 

 

My normal minimum spec for an ensuite wall is plasterboard each side with a minimum density of 10kg/ sq m (see Gyproc Wall 10) on a minimum of a 70mm deep wall stud. Then 50mm of Rockwool RW45 acoustic insulation. If you can stretch to a deeper stud then all the better.

 

Depends on you ceiling height as there is a bit of structural design creeping in here as you don't want the wall too slender so the whole wall vibrates as a unit. . You need an air gap between the Rockwool and the plaster board as the air gap filters some bands of the sound frequency. If you pack the wall tight with insulation it has a detrimental effect. 

 

If you want to keep your guests happy then fit a good solid door, a good lock that gives them confidence, a good fan and a nice handle on the door!

 

The regs between rooms are often different. 

[Iceverge]

Air paths. every one. Seal them up with acoustic sealant . Be picky around pipes etc. 

 

Noggins between roof and floor joists above and below too and more acoustic sealant . 

 

Then add mass. Simple rule. More is better. Plasterboard is cheap as is OSB per kg. Anything would work mind you. You could fill the wall with gravel or magic beans. Mass is mass .

 

Mineral wool will help with the reverb. The extra dense stuff is an expensive way to add mass. More plasterboard is cheaper. 

 

Break any noise travelling through the structure itself by breaking the solid path through. Double studs. Resilient bars. Rubber strips on the joists.