Please Help with Bathroom Leak !

[newbie282]

Hi all,

We are in the midst of a bathroom refurbishment & just discovered a leak behind a wall. This wall backs onto a bedroom where there is a wardrobe. We can see the damp has reached the backpanel of the wardrobe?

 

The leak has now been sorted. Our plumbers are saying there is no need to replace the timber which can be seen in the attached pictures? There is a smell emanating currently.  They have suggested to air dry it for few days &  they would then install plasterboard on top & then tiles. But as it looks so bad, I'm a bit anxious if it will cause any issues in future, if we dont replace this wet or damp timber??

 

Can any of you kindly advise & give your expert opinion on what needs to be done? 

 

Is it ok to do as the plumbers are suggesting? Or should we replace the timber?

 

If its ok to continue with current damp timber, should we take any additional precuations while building the wall??

 

Thanks in advance ! 

 

[Gone West]

@Nickfromwales should look at that. It's his favourite, compression fittings on plastic pipe!!

[Redbeard]

The mould-ridden plasterboard we can see - Is that the back of the wardrobe? The last 2 pics suggest that the wardrobe has its own (hardboard?) back. So has the wet got through that plasterboard and then hit the integral back of the wardrobe? Is there any space between the 2? I'd like to understand the 'mechanism'.

 

You can either jettison the mould-affected timber or treat it with fungicide - possibly based on chlorine bleach. With that as my option I'd choose replacing the timber.

[newbie282]

8 minutes ago, Gone West said:

@Nickfromwales should look at that. It's his favourite, compression fittings on plastic pipe!!

Sorry, what does that mean? I have absolutely zero knowledge on this. Does something need to change on pipe??

[newbie282]

29 minutes ago, Redbeard said:

The mould-ridden plasterboard we can see - Is that the back of the wardrobe? The last 2 pics suggest that the wardrobe has its own (hardboard?) back. So has the wet got through that plasterboard and then hit the integral back of the wardrobe? Is there any space between the 2? I'd like to understand the 'mechanism'.

 

You can either jettison the mould-affected timber or treat it with fungicide - possibly based on chlorine bleach. With that as my option I'd choose replacing the timber.

Yes, that's right. The layers are the board which has been removed then the plasterboard of bedroom then comes the back of the wardrobe. 

[newbie282]

Not sure if there is space between the 2 boards??

[Mr Punter]

Rip out all the mouldy plasterboard and timber.  You will need to move the wardrobes to get this done.  Can you claim on insurance?

[newbie282]

That's what I thought too. Not sure why our plumbers think its ok to be left as it is?? 

 

Just checking possible scenarios, If we leave it as it is after air drying for few days & cover it with a new plasterboard & tiles, what could be any possible future repercussions?? 

[Redbeard]

29 minutes ago, newbie282 said:

If we leave it as it is after air drying for few days & cover it with a new plasterboard & tiles, what could be any possible future repercussions?? 

 

How are your lungs? I would not like the idea of 'boxing up' that much mould. As I said before I don't like the other alternative (treating with effectively chlorine bleach) much more. Get shot of anything with a hint of mould on it and splice in new.

[Nickfromwales]

55 minutes ago, newbie282 said:

That's what I thought too. Not sure why our plumbers think its ok to be left as it is?? 

 

Just checking possible scenarios, If we leave it as it is after air drying for few days & cover it with a new plasterboard & tiles, what could be any possible future repercussions?? 

You need new plumbers!!!!!!!

 

Have you asked your insurance company if you're covered for this?

 

You need someone who will be proactive here, and cut the studwork out in 6" sections so the screws for the rear wall plasterboard will pull out without hurting the rear wall, IF you want to retain just the plasterboard to avoid decoration? Again, insurance should cover this and the entire wall coming out, decoration, everything.

 

2 hours ago, newbie282 said:

Sorry, what does that mean? I have absolutely zero knowledge on this. Does something need to change on pipe??

It's dogshit lazy plumbing. Is the shower valve being replaced?

[Roundtuit]

The timber might be sound and just needs a clean up, but I'd want the wardrobe out and plasterboard gone so you can see the full extent of the situation.  Sometimes trades offer advice based on the time and resource they have available for the job, not necessarily what they'd do if it was theirs..

[Nestor]

As @Roundtuit Minimum would be to move wardrobes to access both sides and remove all the plasterboard, check and clean the timber.

[Gone West]

15 hours ago, newbie282 said:

Sorry, what does that mean? I have absolutely zero knowledge on this. Does something need to change on pipe??

Where a brass compression fitting is used with plastic pipe you will likely get a leak after a while. So this is all the places where you have white pipe attaching to a brass hexagon fitting, which is several in your picture. I would remove all the mouldy/damaged materials and have it replaced with new, and get a decent plumber.

[newbie282]

Thank you all so much. We took out the wardrobe as per your suggestions & glad we did ! The wall is covered in mould ! 

[newbie282]

1 hour ago, Gone West said:

Where a brass compression fitting is used with plastic pipe you will likely get a leak after a while. So this is all the places where you have white pipe attaching to a brass hexagon fitting, which is several in your picture. I would remove all the mouldy/damaged materials and have it replaced with new, and get a decent plumber.

 Thank you for explaining it. What fittings should be used then to avoid future leaks? Plastic compression fittings on plastic pipes?? 

[Gone West]

22 minutes ago, newbie282 said:

 Thank you for explaining it. What fittings should be used then to avoid future leaks? Plastic compression fittings on plastic pipes?? 

The easiest way is to use a short length, 70mm, of copper pipe into the brass compression fitting and a straight plastic connector joining the copper pipe to the plastic pipe.

[newbie282]

5 hours ago, Gone West said:

The easiest way is to use a short length, 70mm, of copper pipe into the brass compression fitting and a straight plastic connector joining the copper pipe to the plastic pipe.

Do you mean attach copper pipe in the bit marked with arrow in picture? 

[Gone West]

5 minutes ago, newbie282 said:

Do you mean attach copper pipe in the bit marked with arrow in picture? 

Yes, that's right. Also, I can see there's another mistake made when installing those plastic fittings. It looks to me like the plumber used Speedfit pipe and fittings and there should be a collet in the groove on the fitting. The collet is there to prevent the fitting from unscrewing by vibration and is a good check that the fitting has been installed correctly.

 

[marshian]

6 hours ago, newbie282 said:

Thank you all so much. We took out the wardrobe as per your suggestions & glad we did ! The wall is covered in mould ! 

I'd be very worried about the floor if that's chipboard flooring - soaks up water very well and once it dries out has the strength of a soggy wheatabix or digestive biscuit!!!!

 

I'd be considering claiming on house insurance and getting it done properly

[Russell griffiths]

 

these fittings are also available so you can go plastic into your brass shower valve. 

[Russell griffiths]

 

this is another 15mm plastic hep2 o with a brass fitting to go into compression fittings. 
various reducers are available. 
 

it’s all of the shelf stuff. 
you either have stupid or lazy plumbers. 

[saveasteading]

When the timber is completely dry the mould will die or at least sleep for ever.  No water means no rot.

However, there are hot and cold pipes in the same space so there will be condensation. The pipes should be insulated.

 

BUT the plasterboard has to be changed and you have this half done already so probably best to replace the timber, using preservative treated, and insulate the pipes.

[Redbeard]

I second @marshian's comment re the chipboards weetabix/digestive biscuit. I would not put chipboard within a mile of a wet room, but I realise that opinions vary. But cut out that soggy bit, please!