23 hours ago, Russdl said:

Just butted up to the architraves. 
 

 

Yep, good point. Our tiles are cut in half length ways and the factory edge faces up for exactly that reason. 
 

We have MDF in all the carpeted rooms, no problems whatsoever, no damage on external corners. No knots to prime. If done properly I see absolutely no issue with MDF (apart from the dust 😷)
 

 

 

Ours were cut into strips and we used tile edging strip along the top edge - this gives a great finish and easier to get a horizontal line.  I say we - our tiler did it of course.

Being able to cur them into strips means less wastage.  and like other replies having a tile skirting means no issues with mopping.

 

 

 

yeah, nice!  I do like the tiled skirting tbh.  I think I'm going to wait for the tiles to be laid then I will get some samples cut and see what look we get.  The tile we have chosen is a stone effect with tumbled edge, so may or may not lend itself to a tile skirting.

1 hour ago, crispy_wafer said:

yeah, nice!  I do like the tiled skirting tbh.  I think I'm going to wait for the tiles to be laid then I will get some samples cut and see what look we get.  The tile we have chosen is a stone effect with tumbled edge, so may or may not lend itself to a tile skirting.

You can bin off the tumbled edges and just use the centre 'meat' of the tile, adding a trim on the top to finish it. Curved 1/4 round trims would probably be more sympathetic to a tumbled tile / rustic look.

6 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

You can bin off the tumbled edges and just use the centre 'meat' of the tile, adding a trim on the top to finish it. Curved 1/4 round trims would probably be more sympathetic to a tumbled tile / rustic look.

 

The other option with porcelain/ceramic tile is to have mitred edges with a sliver of face tile on top resin bound. Load of extra labour in it though.

Just now, -rick- said:

Load of extra labour in it though

Boatloads.

 

My Rubi DU 200 radial wet bench cutter makes this a LOT easier, but still a massive ballache.

3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

You can bin off the tumbled edges and just use the centre 'meat' of the tile, adding a trim on the top to finish it. Curved 1/4 round trims would probably be more sympathetic to a tumbled tile / rustic look.

 

The manufacturer offers a rectified tile, so I can definitely get a nice straight edge, it's more how they look when crossing over the tumbled edge and grout line, but thinking about it that would be the same as if I selected timber anyway.  They also offer a specific skirting tile, but I'd need to speak to the local tile supply man to see how much he can import them for.  Quick google suggests £16'ish, if thats for 1 then that's too dear for me, and I choose the cut route.

 

 

 

4 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

You have to be incredibly careful not to pull the corner bead off the plasterboard all the way through the project, and find a way so that a cloth or duster doesn't have any way to be able to snag on the cut metal end of the bead, as a few times the guys on site were hopping around and swearing loudly when they innadvertantly popped another one; then the filling and sanding etc begins all over again.

 

Not entirely sure I get you.

 

When I've thought through sequencing on this, to get this style I think you need to install the custom door frames in before plasterboard (definitely before skimming). This would the require protecting these frames so if I did that I'd build temporary protection frames around those frames. Those frames in turn should provide a standoff from the metal trim and therefore protection.

 

Still, a lot of work.

 

Edit: Read your post again, clearly you said corner beads and I was thinking about beads around doorways. Still a little confused as the bulk of the corner beads is the same as a normal wall. Guess you are talking that the area where the bead is mitred into the shadowgap beads at the bottom? If so, seems like an easy way to avoid that problem is to put some temporary rough skirting in the corners to avoid bumps?

Edited February 26Feb 26 by -rick-

5 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Boatloads.

 

My Rubi DU 200 radial wet bench cutter makes this a LOT easier, but still a massive ballache.

slight tangent, What blades/discs do you use @Nickfromwales 

26 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

slight tangent, What blades/discs do you use @Nickfromwales 

Expensive Rubi ones lol.

 

The standard blade will zoom through ceramic and travertine etc, but porcelain comes in different grades and needs a blade to suit. Any good retailer / tile shop should be able to advise and have stock of different types of blades.

Wow, I know this post was primary about skirting, but 8 months later, we've finally got a few tiles on the floor 😬, Would have loved to say this is my own work, but this would have blown my mind to even attempt this so I've reluctantly/wisely got a man in to help. I've found some bullnose limestone skirting that doesn't seem to cost the earth - waiting on a sample, but it's 20mm thick. The next challenge will be architraves to the within a mm or two so it doesn't look daft.

I have tiling with that grid. A very professional tiler laid it with me handing him the next tile by size, orientation and colour appropriateness. He said it would otherwise have 'done his head in'.

I hope it's very level at the edges as you don't want to be trimming 20mm marble skirtings.

That looks a tidy job. We did similar in our utility and entrance hall but with slate tiles. They were all to some extent twisted and warped or dished. I laid about 4 myself before I realised it was more of an art than an engineering job to get irregular sized, irregular thickness, warped and dished tiles to look right. So I called in my tiler friend who made it all work and did a good job. There was no way our tiles could have been set out with tile spacers like that, some of the joints would have touched if you tried. It all had to be done by eye.

I had first drawn out to scale the two rooms to be tiled and the transition from one to the other showing what tile size and orientation went where. The tiler just had to make it work with the tiles we had.