CJO Posted 8 hours ago Posted 8 hours ago After some advice and experiences from those on this forum website regarding our potential Non Ventilated Warm Roof. I have spent an evening/afternoon reading previous threads about this subject matter and that has raised a couple of questions. Our internal roof pitches will all be open plan (vaulted) and our house will be an upside down layout. Our architect and SE have specified the following build up from inside to out. 12.5mm plasterboard Service void Vapour control layer 9.5mm sheathing board 125mm Rafter 75 PIR insulation between 100mm on top 18mm sarking board Standing seam metal work roof. My partner and I have increased our expectation of our self build and want to make it achieve passive elements. I’m thinking… 12.5mm plasterboard Service void Vapour control layer 9.5mm sheathing board 125mm Rafter Cellulose infill for sound and insulation 100mm PIR on top 22mm OSB Tyvek Metal Underlay Standing seam metal work roof. Potentially have an extra 50mm deep rafters to play with as the SE downsized the Architects spec… Reading the previous threads regarding noise and condensation risks has got the grey matter questioning methods. I have read a lot of Du Ponts website regarding roof build ups, watched Roofer Steve on YouTube explaining vapour control layers and also looked at VM Zincs information regarding build ups. Our doesn’t sound impossible. Is there a concern infilling our rafters would result in needing deeper rafters? Look forward to reading any responses.👍🏻
Redbeard Posted 8 hours ago Posted 8 hours ago (edited) What you describe is a hybrid Warm roof - some on top of the rafters and some between. In some circumstances there is a risk of the dew-point occurring at the interface. A condensation risk analysis (CRA) can guide you, but a colleague had a good rule of thumb: If you have two-thirds of the R value above the rafters and one-third below, the interface is unlikely to get cold enough to reach the dew-point. If I remember correctly the lambda of cellulose is (or was when I used it) 0.036W/mK, and PIR is 0.022W/mK. So for 125 cellulose it's 3.47m2K/W (actually less, as that does not take into account the 'intrusion' of the rafters) and for 100 PIR it's 4.54m2K/W, so not too far off but probably not two-thirds/one-third. A CRA (particularly if done in the WUFI software) will be more accurate. Edit: A thought: If noise is an issue why not consider rigid wood-fibre on top? 140-180kg/m3 as against about 32kg/m3 (IIRC) for PIR)? Edited 8 hours ago by Redbeard Noise and WF
Nickfromwales Posted 8 hours ago Posted 8 hours ago 5” rafters are quite small? At what frequency and what length?
SimonD Posted 7 hours ago Posted 7 hours ago 1 hour ago, CJO said: Vapour control layer 9.5mm sheathing board 125mm Rafter Cellulose infill for sound and insulation 100mm PIR on top 22mm OSB Tyvek Metal Underlay Standing seam metal work roof. If you do osb sheathing @ 11mm you can use this as your VCL, just tape and seal all the joints. With respect to your buildup sub the metal roof, you need to be a little careful. There are only a small number of standing seam metal roofing manufacturers that explicitly have a buildup that doesn't require a ventilation gap so double check with them that the Tyvek metal underlay system on warm roof is accepted by them (I know it's been designed to allow condensation to drain from below the metal roof and there are approved systems) - and double check with building control. You are also much better of using sarking boards, which are the preferred substrate, second is plywood and 3rd is osb. Pull out resistance of your standing seam clips is greatly reduced in osb where you really need to use screws not nails, which most contractors will use because they won't want to spend the time screwing the clips into the board. So you have to look at this in the round and how the metal roofing contractor designs the clipping for the wind exposure of your house.
Iceverge Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago Any drawings of your roof and wall interface? If it's complex then I would recommend moving your airtight layer outboard of the rafters.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now