Duncan62 Posted yesterday at 14:13 Posted yesterday at 14:13 Suggest a solution to our predicament! We have a 200mm slab that was poured with self levelling concrete, the result was ok, not great, pictures attached. I would like a solution to give the appearance of a concrete slab. What would you suggest? Approx 90sqm to cover. My idea is Aturo Mistral https://uk.arturoflooring.com/design/resin-flooring-design-options/arturo-mistral Rep says that with our current slab it'll be a lot of work to prep it. I don't doubt it. Anyone have similar issues, and find any other solutions please?
Nickfromwales Posted yesterday at 14:17 Posted yesterday at 14:17 Microcement, or maybe ask a good grinding / polishing company to sample one small room and see what results that yields. Prep for adding layers to this will need to be robust, and would probably need some amount of grinding. The hope would be, to grind and area and see if it looks ok, then if so repeat throughout.
Duncan62 Posted yesterday at 15:18 Author Posted yesterday at 15:18 That's a good suggestion, I'd like to bring in a team to do the work, but the cost is prohibitive. Is it crazy to suggest that a self levelling compound, over the whole slab could be a finished floor? Would have to look at the spec of a product to find a minimum viable thickness.
Nickfromwales Posted yesterday at 15:32 Posted yesterday at 15:32 12 minutes ago, Duncan62 said: That's a good suggestion, I'd like to bring in a team to do the work, but the cost is prohibitive. Is it crazy to suggest that a self levelling compound, over the whole slab could be a finished floor? Would have to look at the spec of a product to find a minimum viable thickness. SLC is friable, so won’t last 5 mins.
Nickfromwales Posted yesterday at 15:34 Posted yesterday at 15:34 14 minutes ago, Duncan62 said: but the cost is prohibitive Not if it turns out cheaper and faster than prepping and re-covering with xyz. Especially if you’re still on shaky ground as to whether that’s then still robust.
Iceverge Posted yesterday at 15:37 Posted yesterday at 15:37 Most of them will grind out if say, there'll be little big aggregate in the humps anyway so it might be straightforward enough.
saveasteading Posted yesterday at 15:41 Posted yesterday at 15:41 (edited) 1 hour ago, Duncan62 said: our predicament! I am pretty sure they have added water to the mix, causing these very visible shrinkage cracks. If you have the delivery ticket, they will have had to sign an instruction to add water as it absolves the supplier. It is a common mistake but utterly misguided and you could ask for some recompense. These cracks will be right through the depth so taking the surface off will not remove them, although the crack widths may reduce. It's possible that only the top few mm was hideously wet and overworked. Are there contraction joints elsewhere, and what has happened there? It's ok for any overlay as it won't move again.... unless overworked. I'd try chiselling a bit off the surface to see if it is well bonded to the mass. Re the tamping ridges, that may not matter for tiling but has to be ground off for anything else. It's a diy job with a grinder made for the very purpose.... but hard work. A new poured surface is possible but would be very expensive. It would involve taking all the pasty surface off then laying a granolithic or resin material. It might not crack if very skilfully done. Best to decide that you really like tiles or vinyl. If you must have a concrete finish then you could regard the existing as a base layer and pour a new floor, 100 thick, with reinforcement and careful attention to detail BUT all concrete crazes and my opinion is that it is for commercial buildings. You could also consider grinding down about 20mm into the stone, so you will se the matrix of stone and sand/cement. then you'd have to seal it as it will show stains. Again, this will cost an awful lot. Edited yesterday at 15:43 by saveasteading
Russell griffiths Posted 23 hours ago Posted 23 hours ago You can get a self leveling compound designed for forklift traffic in warehouses I don’t know what it looks like, probably grey and boring looking if that what you are looking for. you could do one room with expansion gap at a door way as a tester.
saveasteading Posted 22 hours ago Posted 22 hours ago 40 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said: self levelling compound designed for forklift traffic in warehouses I have been out of that industry a few years now, but last i knew, it was an epoxy or polymer, not concrete. So it's a paint really, in any colour, but not at all interesting. If you want your house to look like a garage....
Duncan62 Posted 9 hours ago Author Posted 9 hours ago 16 hours ago, saveasteading said: I am pretty sure they have added water to the mix, causing these very visible shrinkage cracks. It's possible that only the top few mm was hideously wet and overworked. Are there contraction joints elsewhere, and what has happened there? Yes it was raining when it was poured so the top got too wet. The self levelling concrete doesn't like that, and as a result it cracked on the surface. The tamping marks are because it started to go off because the crew doing it weren't very good. Looks like I will be hiring a grinder and doing the dirty work. Guess I need this for a week? https://www.hsstoolshop.co.uk/diamond-floor-grinders-for-hire-12022-p.asp
saveasteading Posted 8 hours ago Posted 8 hours ago 1 hour ago, Duncan62 said: Guess I need this for a week? That's posh with the handle and standing up. That will do it rather quickly as a diamond grinder is OTT for that soft surface. But better that than struggling. Are you just smoothing it or taking a mm or two off? Dust! You'll need masks etc and do you vacuum it up? Whose decision was it to pour despite the rain? Or was it not forecast? It's a very big decision to cancel a pour, so I appreciate the pressure to do it.
Russell griffiths Posted 7 hours ago Posted 7 hours ago You can get a handheld version get that fora day as a tester. what are you actually try to achieve.
Nickfromwales Posted 6 hours ago Posted 6 hours ago Handheld ones can carve valleys into the surface in seconds, so beware to not do more harm that good. I’d defo go for the upright and start with just taking a whisker off the surface and keep the machine moving at all times. Any time you need to stop, lift the machine. This isn’t a job for the front-hearted btw, and we recently had to drop an concrete raft down about 15mm (door and window shoot and fit company fecked the job up royally and when I laid a tile down dry, the front door wouldn’t open inwards as it was hitting 90% of the 9mm tile! My mate came to the rescue, then did 2 days of grinding and smoothing out, over around 30m2 to feather it out. He told me we’re not friends anymore, and not to call him the next time 🤣. Hire the big machine for a day, try and area that you can sacrifice as a tester, and then remember you’ll need the smaller detail grinder to do corners and areas that the big machine can’t get to. Beware that the upright machine will chew through the job at a much faster rate than the detail grinder, so don’t make those areas then a load of grief by going to far with the upright machine. Mask anything such as skirting or units so as to not damage them, with Antinox sheets / other.
Adrian Walker Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago How old is the slab. What self levelling concrete did you use?
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