Advice on correcting plasterboard seams covered with Artex

[8ball]

OK here we go my 1st question on Buildhub.org since ebuild closed down

It's kind of a 2 part question but I'm going to split it into 2 threads so as not to over complicate things and confuse myself.

Here goes:

The seams of all my artexed plasterboard ceilings are coming away from the plasterboard: see pic below.

I have now pulled down the defective parts and this is what I am left with: see pic below. (I also have a worried looking wife, pic not enclosed).

I have a plan to fix the seams and would like some advice from the forum users on whether I am going about it in the correct order.

I have purchased the following for the task:

Wickes Reinforcing Joint Tape For Plasterboards 50mmx150m.
Wickes Ready Mixed Jointing Compound.

**Just a quick note that after fixing the seams I will be plastering over the artex ceilings, this will be my next thread.**

My method so far but willing to update with expert knowledge from forum members

1st remove all loose debris along seams, rub down and apply joint compound.
2nd apply paper tape and joint compound over the top and lightly sand back.

Should I try and remove as much of the old joint cement as possible as most of it seems quite stable?

Thanks guys and girls, as always your time is much appreciated.

 

[Jeremy Harris]

If this is old artex, then take care, as the old stuff used asbestos fibres for added strength, so don't sand it, or if you have to, wet sand it and use protective gear.  I've not tried, but have heard that artex can be steamed off, and, if it works, then this might be the cleanest way of getting back to a good surface to then repair. 

Skimming over the artex won't be as easy as skimming over a smooth surface with scrim tape over the joints, I think.

[Declan52]

Think I would buy new plasterboard and fix it through that artex then skim finish it.

[TheMitchells]

That's very similar to the house we are updating. Will be interested to hear what is the best way to sort out the artexed ceilings.

[Tennentslager]

I'd leave it to the plasterer, the difference will be nothing to him.

 

 

[Stones]

4 hours ago, Declan52 said:

Think I would buy new plasterboard and fix it through that artex then skim finish it.

+1

[SteamyTea]

From the picture it looks like you have taken a picture of my bathroom ceiling!

 

[Onoff]

I reckon that when first done they may have used the old 2" brown tape on the joints. I bet they placed the DRY tape against the boards and then tried to PVA over the top hoping it'd soak through i.e they didn't PVA the joint first, SOAK then stick the tape on THEN PVA over the lot.

I've similar but not so bad on the 4 upstairs ceilings in the dormer. Mine's circa 1988.

HOT water will soften Artex up to scrape it off but it's messy. Also likely won't work if it's been gloss painted.

[8ball]

19 hours ago, JSHarris said:

If this is old artex, then take care, as the old stuff used asbestos fibres for added strength, so don't sand it, or if you have to, wet sand it and use protective gear.  I've not tried, but have heard that artex can be steamed off, and, if it works, then this might be the cleanest way of getting back to a good surface to then repair. 

Skimming over the artex won't be as easy as skimming over a smooth surface with scrim tape over the joints, I think.

JSHarris I have read into the dangers of asbestos in the Artex which is scary, our house was built in 1985 so I am wondering if I should send some samples off to be tested. I found an online company called Bradley-enviro which sample up to 4 samples for 40 quid.

I did a test area with steam with not much luck so I'm still heading towards skimming the whole lot once I have figured out the best route for the seams.

7 hours ago, Onoff said:

I reckon that when first done they may have used the old 2" brown tape on the joints. I bet they placed the DRY tape against the boards and then tried to PVA over the top hoping it'd soak through i.e they didn't PVA the joint first, SOAK then stick the tape on THEN PVA over the lot.

I've similar but not so bad on the 4 upstairs ceilings in the dormer. Mine's circa 1988.

HOT water will soften Artex up to scrape it off but it's messy. Also likely won't work if it's been gloss painted.

Hey Onoff from looking at the seams yes they used 2 inch tape but used some kind of compound over the seams 1st and then tape over the top, no idea if they used PVA. Do you think I should leave the existing compound in place then PVA over the top of it then stick my new tape over that. I kinda thought I needed to use jointing compound over the tape and not PVA.

I thought PVA went on just before I skim the whole ceiling.

Thanks everyone else for all your views - ta

[Jeremy Harris]

It may well be asbestos-free if it dates from the 80's, as I have a feeling that it's only the older stuff, before we became as aware of the risks from asbestos, that had fibres in.

Probably best to just get back to a sound surface (removing the dodgy tapes and any loose stuff) and then just get it skimmed, I think.

[8ball]

So I'm having some fun putting up my paper tape with the jointing compound but whilst doing this I questioned why the need for the tape as the compound seems solid as is.

Can anyone shine a light?

Ta

[Crofter]

I think it helps prevent problems with differential expansion/shrinkage/sagging etc of the filler and plasterboard.

[8ball]

6 minutes ago, Crofter said:

I think it helps prevent problems with differential expansion/shrinkage/sagging etc of the filler and plasterboard.

Thanks Crofter

[8ball]

So I'm using Wickes ready mixed jointing compound and pre creased paper tape for my seams but I'm not getting on very well. I'm happy with the jointing compound with good consistency and all that but the paper tape does not stick very well and bubbles up at the slightest chance. I'm bedding it in nicely but it's still not having it.

I used paper tape because that was the previous tape that was used on the ceiling but I am wondering if the fiberglass tape is a better choice as when I watch tutorials online that seems to be the common choice in the UK.

[Crofter]

I will probably be told that this is all wrong, but in the past I've used creased paper tape, and used a sponge (just stole one from under the sink) to apply watery PVA to the joint area, then laid the tape, then used the spong to squeegee it down and remove all bubbles, as well as wiping away excess PVA. Then the filler goes on top once it is dry.

 

I'm sure somebody will be along in a minute who doesn't just make these things up as they go along

[8ball]

Quote

 

I think I'll give your method a go Crofter as not at all happy with my results at moment, a bit of trial and error doesn't hurt eh

[Crofter]

Actually just remembered- I squeezed/dribbled PVA out directly onto the back of the creased tape, then placed it onto the joint. Had a sudden flashback of PVA dribbling down my arms and off my elbows. Maybe brushing it onto the wall would be better! But definitely squeegee the tape down flat.

[8ball]

I didn't know there was a back and a front to the paper tape, how do you know which is which?

Thanks for the update Crofter, I'll give it a try later.

 

[Crofter]

Erm, I suppose it doesn't really, but I seem to remember it wanted to fold one way more readily than the other.

[8ball]

1 minute ago, Crofter said:

Erm, I suppose it doesn't really, but I seem to remember it wanted to fold one way more readily than the other.

[8ball]

Ok so I thought I would do an update on how I'm getting on with repairing the joins in my Artex ceiling just in case anyone else is thinking of doing the same:

Ist I removed the old paper joining tape that was coming away from the plasterboard seams, underneath the tape was old jointing compound which was in good condition except for the odd crack here and there.

2nd removed all the high points from the Artex ceiling with a large Bosch belt sander, I used this sander instead of a scraper as the Artex was quite old and solid as a rock.

3rd removed any loose material/dust from where you removed the old join tape and use compound joint filler to close any cracks and allow to dry for 24HRS.

4th Mixed a 50/50 PVA and water mixture and painted 2 coats onto the trough created from where I removed the old join tape on the seams of the plasterboard. I let this dry for 24HRS

Thanks  to Crofter for PVA idea ;-)

5th Cut your new paper join tape to the required lengths for your plasterboard joins/seams and then apply some of the PVA mix used earlier to the new paper tape and wait about a minute until it becomes tacky then apply to your plasterboard join. leave for 24HRS to make sure everything is nice and dry at the seams.

6th Apply joint compound filler with a trowel over the new paper join tape and at the same time filling the trough to the same height as the remaining Artex.

Hope the above makes sense ;-)

Edited June 27, 2016 by 8ball